13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Your selection of plants will fill in quite nicely. The viiburnum will grow much bigger, 5ft plus. In width, so may be too large for the space.
My one suggestion that you may not appreciate is to consider some of those very plants that you've admonished your neighbors for having; they provide greenery and structure over the winter and you need something like that to soften the hard edges of your home and stairs. If you can find a native equivalent perhaps?!
katob, you might be right! I've always dig, plop, and plant (after gently loosening the root-balls a bit). All my neighbors' new and old lavenders are thriving but I couldn't keep one alive.
I'd talked to the nursery staff and master gardeners in my city, but no one could give me a better answer, other than "amend your soil".
Thank you, I like the chair idea.. :)
Just wanted to report both my Santa Barbara daisy and Russian Sage have bounced back from diligent watering. We had a really warm Spring, but they're happy now. Thank you all for your advice.
jacqueline, I'm getting a Perle d'Or start in the fall from a trade. Really excited about it. :)
I've never actually seen the eggs. I only have a few lilies and I tend to keep a close eye on them from May onwards. I often nab mating adults so maybe they don't get a chance to lay eggs. I find they'll go for L regale rather than L henryi. I don't grow any asiatic types. There are some good pictures of eggs, larvae and adults at this link. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=553
As peren.all implies, Tricyrtis is a very useful perennial here since it blooms at a time of the growing season when the number of perennial bloomers is reduced.
I just gave up on killing the beetles and grubs, Debbie. My friend David made the point that if you have lilies here you want then in a restricted location, so just as Floral says, you can keep a close eye on them. His small, but impressive stand, is located right in front of the bench on which he sits to have a nice cool beer after a day of gardening. That way he has a good view of any lily beetles and can spring into action.
We live in northern Minnesota. The soil I have was as weedless as I could ever imagine. The only thing I have to pull, is stupid Boxelder seedlings..don't get me started ha ha. As I stated, I have not had one other pigweed in the whole garden and it's a big garden. So, it SO strange, just where the monarda was is where it grew. I got it from my aunt, 2 years ago. The first year was pretty slow, last year a boom crop of some being over 4 feet tall. This year? All pigweed. Now, I gotta figure out what to do with the soil in that area so the pigweed doesn't grow back and there are little roots everywhere. I was told round up doesn't kill pigweed
Pic in this discussion:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3227279/plant-id?n=2
I take pictures with my iPhone in portrait mode. No problems with sideways pictures for me now! I do my posting on my iPad. The pictures transfer through wi-fi from my phone to iPad. Touch the photo button on the bottom of the post and, voila, my photos are all there to pick from
Sherry
Yes it is powdery mildew and yes it will spread to other plants prone to it such as Monarda and Phlox paniculata etc. I have added link to an in depth discussion we had a while ago. Here is the link Powdery mildew. Read this and we will be happy to discuss further if you still have questions.
It also doesn't have the old "toothy" (?) petal edges of the 'David' flowers.
I'm not familiar with 'Shorty White'.
The two compact white garden phlox that have been readily available around here, in recent years, are 'White Flame' (registered/introduced 2005) and 'Pina Colada' (2007).
The fact that both 'Pina Colada' and 'Swizzle' are Verschoor phlox (White Flame is a Bartels) could suggest it may be 'Pina Colada'.
Am currently finding 'Pina Colada' a bit more vigorous than 'White Flame'. Can't put my finger on it yet, but think I prefer the vivid, matt (?) whiteness of 'Pina Colada'.
Today: our first smaller white garden phlox (a 'Pina Colada') began to flower.
Well the deed is done. I lifted the Dicentra and Rodgersia, the Arisaema was near a Camellia and had been for a few years, so I thought the roots would probably be too intertwined. I treated them only with the fungicides, I figured there was too much of a risk of interaction between them and the peroxide. Here is a picture of the Rodgersia. The plant was mostly green as of last week.
I planted some hybrid echinacea last year and they bloomed a little all summer. This year, they are much larger and covered in blooms. I also have some native purple coneflowers that are three feet tall and doing GREAT.
I deadhead most flowers, just to prevent them from spending energy creating seeds, and as Nevermore says, the hybrids won't give you seeds like the parent.
Anyone have experience with flower color and sun/shade? Mine is planted in too much shade so leans towards the sun, but I find the purple is very faint. I was wondering if more sun would change flower color? Am I off base with that? Maybe I'll relocate it to my daylily bed. That flower structure would look nice paired with daylilies.
Today: anomalous flower spikes growing out of terminal flower spikes of a 'Lavendelturm'; close-up of the larger one below. It's not the fasciation of 'Fascination' which I have much more experience with.
'Fascination' may have smaller terminal flower spikes than 'Lavendelturm', but it has large numbers of secondary spikes that come out at the the levels of leaf whorls.
I'd say that the influorescence of 'Fascination' has a very attractive iridescent quality that 'Lavendelturm' seems to lack.
'Fascination'.
if you have a lot ... cut some to one foot..
some to 6 inches.. some to 3 inches.. then observe and learn ...
i find that i actually remember experiements ...
ken
Yes, you can cut it back and the new growth will be mildew-free.