13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Silvergoldenrod: Yes, you will be able to do that. Some root loss/pruning is not going to damage the plants and, in fact, will promote better root growth. Be careful if the plant has a tap-root, though; although, I've broken taproots before when transplanting, and plants end up just fine anyway, which I knows goes against all the standard advice one hears but hey.
I usually asked them to ship in Feb or early March...because I knew I was getting dormant grown-outdoors perennials (from where I was ordering).
Thus, no stress on plant or broken stems, etc. And they're ready to leaf out and bloom in my garden...but then my ground never froze either.
It's about what you know (or can find out)...lol
They can be planted out as soon as the ground is workable - that is, not frozen or overly saturated by winter rains. In zone 7, it is unusual for garden soil to freeze to any significant depth, so planting time is typically whenever :-) But this winter has seen some pretty wierd weather across much of the US, so let your own climate be your guide. Generally, if it is comfortable enough for you to be able to garden outside, it is okay to plant hardy plants. Frosts can damage newly emerging foliage as mentioned above but if the perennials are hardy for your zone, there is little concern about the root systems. Still, I would err to the side of acclimating the new plants to your area before plunking in the ground.
Babs, ThatâÂÂs a cute little Penstemon. I had âÂÂPikeâÂÂs Peak Purpleâ for four years and then it didnâÂÂt show up in the spring. IâÂÂd try them again, I really like them. I hope I can get a few of the Campanulas to try this year and IâÂÂll let you know how it goes.
Floral, your climate is so different than ours. I canâÂÂt wait for April!
Campanula, I have loamy clay and plants that need lean soil, usually struggle here. I can neglect it though, for sure. [g]
This thread has turned out to be a "keeper" which I will bookmark because of all the comments related to particular varieties and growing conditions in different zones.
I'll be seeking out c. cochlearifolia, "Samantha" and c. portenschlagiana this spring! I've also put them on my "New for 2014" wish list. I'm with PM2.... can't wait for April... even March will warm my gardening soul after this snowy winter (more snow is falling today).
Molie
"What I am now realizing after doing more looking is the very great number of varieties in this genus."
I've been thinking the same thing. In fact, I'm starting to realize I really have no idea (yet) of the possibilities.
It's kind of sad to think most people only see the few varieties offered as blooming plants in the fall at their local garden center and settle for that as enough of a selection.
Kevin
Just wondering if anyone has received a brochure yet. I didn't notice any change on their website but wasn't sure if that meant anything or not.... The thermometer has gone above freezing two days in a row and all of a sudden I'm all about growing things and gardens again!
I remember looking around a woodland garden years ago.
I came around a corner and there in front of me was a whole group of Chaenomeles speciosa Moerloosei, in full flower.
They had pink or white hellebores at their feet. The whole effect was magical.
Around another corner was a group of Ribes sanguineum White Icicle. These had masses of pure white narcissus with them.
These two groupings, had a such a beauty, that they made a strong impression on me that I can still recall to-day, many years later.
Daisy
How to grow cascade mums
http://www.kingsmums.com/growing_info.php
Here is a link that might be useful: to grow cascade mums
Ken, cascade mums, which are popular in the far east, are achieved by pinching one or more plants, many many times over a season. I started the process many years ago after being inspired by photos..but lost track after three or four pinches. Ah, well.....I enjoy the photos these days.....LOL.
I'm so glad to have seen this post! I never notice people mentioning this plant and was wondering if it was difficult or not.... Sounds like its not all that tough to grow. Probably should have looked into that before I ordered a half dozen packets of seed in a seed exchange! They've been stratifying outside for about a month and with any luck I'll have a bunch of seedlings come springtime :)
garcan - the only penstemon I have is the rather common Husker's Red. I'm not sure why I haven't tried others; I was just looking at some on the Heritage Perennials site and I'm pretty sure I will find one or two to add to this bed or elsewhere.... Ceratostigma plumbaginoides was a failure here when I tried it a number of years ago! Heather would, like all acid lovers, turn its nose at my garden up I'm sure :-) Golden Arrows would not suit this bed (Rouge is a strong proponent of that one too...) But various suggestions for yellow (flower or foliage) plants on this thread have me thinking about making a 'golden' area in the front bed too - I started one in the back garden last year. There is an area on the north side of the big front bed that desperately needs renovating and the discussion we've been having here has made me think that it might be a place where I could try some of the 'yellow' plants that I otherwise don't have a place for. Another project.... :-)
campanula - L.vernus sounds like it belongs in my woodland garden areas somewhere... added to the shopping list... I'll check out the others you mentioned. Annuals are too much of a PITA :-) I want things that come back on their own - veggies are the only exception to that. I searched for erodium chrysantha and all the sites I found were either UK/Europe or places like California, so it's not a likely one to be found around here by the sounds of it!
I grew Golden Alexander in my butterfly garden and it is easy to grow and stays green and attractive. Beware, though, that it does get quite wide and will reseed enthusiastically. I would deadhead or plan to mulch heavily to decrease sprouts--or both.
Martha
I don't grow the senna, but do have the other two plants mentioned. They are both spring bloomers, loved by insects, and very easy to grow in part shade/part sun and relatively dry to fairly moist soil. I don't know how tall a plant you want. Senna is a much larger and taller plant, around 5 ft. I believe it also prefers a sunnier spot, and blooms in July-Aug. Check for more info on native plants on Prairie Moon's website. https://www.prairiemoon.com
Here is a link that might be useful: Prairie Mooon Nursery
river_crossroads - there is a white perennial Iberis but it is I sempervirens, not I umbellata. It is evergreen and flowers in spring only.
Here is a link that might be useful: Perennial candytuft
floral_uk, thanks for info! I wish we could give Daisy some more info. Can anyone else help with the original question?
I killed the Agastache âÂÂSummer Loveâ that is the same series as DaisyâÂÂs âÂÂSummer Sunsetâ in a different color. I think I kept it too dry and gave it too much sun right after I got it and transplanted it to a clay pot. I wish I had kept the pot closer to my door so I could checked on it 2x/day, wish I had paid more attention to how the plant looked and less attention to the directions. I realize that other people are better gardeners than I am! Thanks again, Daisy and floral, River
SB, That primula is pretty!
By adverse I mean not only a lack of sun, there are also the big trunk like roots growing many feet deeply into my property along with thick feeder roots and they immediately suck the ground bone dry after watering or rain creating a difficult, if not impossible 120' x 15' area that is not good for any kind of desirable gardening and very difficult to dig. Thats a lot of square feet being affected by neighbor neglect and on a city lot when space is always at a premium its a bit hard to swallow at times.
I found that Salvia greggi which will take the dry conditions do surprisingly well since the tree leaves are not dense during their best blooming time and they are defoliating when the salvias are back in bloom in fall.
A really big surprise is how well Silver King Artemisia does. I have lots of this growing in groups in the area. It stands tall and thick and adds some much needed bright silver interest lightening up the otherwise dark area. I wouldn't have guessed it would do so well.
Cool season grasses like stipa varieties that go dormant in summer are also choices and I am having luck with hardy Lantana too. Of course all these bloom better in full sun but they are still attractive and able to take the conditions I am dealing with.
What I am trying to get are plants/shrubs that will provide some height as well as visual size presence since its a transition zone that jumps drastically from low growing plants to this sudden and abrupt line of unattractive mismatched volunteer trees and messy undergrowth. Currently the effect is very jarring, like a 30 ft wall of blackness that feels and looks visually oppressive. I am on the downhill side which adds to the problem because my yard is much lower than the neighbors so eye level is distorted from his ground level to mine making it even harder to achieve a graceful visual transition. I'm planting on his side (with permission) to get some height.
So many plants I've tried just end up seriously leaning east looking like they are attempting escape and further emphasizing the lopsided problem so I have to go back to the drawing board but these I mentioned have worked. Actually, all of my backyard plantings, even those in full sun, lean east in varying degrees except for the O. grasses.
This post was edited by GreatPlains1 on Wed, Jan 1, 14 at 21:51
A karma update. A couple of days ago with no snow or storm in sight, a dead tree fell not only up hill but also on a steep up gradient angle from the gully behind my house (on park land) to make a pinpoint landing across the dog pen where my lovely neighbors put out their dog to bark usually when I'm trying to sleep or work. The tree also did some damage to their window and roof. (the dog wasn't in the pen at the time.)
If this tree had fallen directly up hill it probably would have fallen between our houses and not done any damage.
The path this tree took was spookily precise. Makes you think of karma (yes those neighbors) or there is a winter spirit awake in this cold and dark time. I think I'll walk gently on the ground at least until the Spring equinox.
This post was edited by kimka on Mon, Jan 27, 14 at 13:18
You've received good advice from the above posters. Keep in mind that plants are normally dormant for at least part of the cold season in any climate zone.
One of the clematis is putting out a lot of new growth. My question is do clematis require a period of dormancy to do well in the spring?
Chances are it's putting out new growth because it's indoors which isn't normal (or optimal) for the plant. Perennials, including clematis, go dormant in winter based on climatic conditions affected by hours of daylight + air/soil temperature. Indoor temperatures + artificial light don't replicate seasonal growing conditions.
To answer your question: I'm in a much colder zone but it has been my observation that clematis (like other perennials) DOES need a period of dormancy as part of its natural growing cycle.
I would echo Ken and recommend you move the plants to a garage/sheltered carport and let them do what comes naturally. In my experience, that's generally what works best. The new growth that's being produced by one plant may or may not survive but should not sound the death knell for the plant once it has a chance to establish a natural & optimal growing cycle.
grandma, the type lamiums you linked are spreading groundcover plants. Their growing habit doesn't particularly resemble deep-rooted non spreading clumper lamium orvala.
I find lamium orvala to be relatively mannerly in my garden, beloved by bees....while the little L.maculatum 'White Nancy has been a reliable groundcover in dry shade without ever over-stepping the mark......unlike the horrendous lamium galeobdolum (yellow archangel) - a supremely stoloniferous maniac.
There are deadnettles.....and dreadnettles.