13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I planted some hybrid echinacea last year and they bloomed a little all summer. This year, they are much larger and covered in blooms. I also have some native purple coneflowers that are three feet tall and doing GREAT.
I deadhead most flowers, just to prevent them from spending energy creating seeds, and as Nevermore says, the hybrids won't give you seeds like the parent.
Anyone have experience with flower color and sun/shade? Mine is planted in too much shade so leans towards the sun, but I find the purple is very faint. I was wondering if more sun would change flower color? Am I off base with that? Maybe I'll relocate it to my daylily bed. That flower structure would look nice paired with daylilies.
Today: anomalous flower spikes growing out of terminal flower spikes of a 'Lavendelturm'; close-up of the larger one below. It's not the fasciation of 'Fascination' which I have much more experience with.
'Fascination' may have smaller terminal flower spikes than 'Lavendelturm', but it has large numbers of secondary spikes that come out at the the levels of leaf whorls.
I'd say that the influorescence of 'Fascination' has a very attractive iridescent quality that 'Lavendelturm' seems to lack.
'Fascination'.
I love your clearly voiced opinions, Campanula! I'll agree with you on the C. glomerata, but I like the Clips here. They have been a restrained little pop of color that goes on all season in my garden, making a tidy edging plant. No fussing, they just returned reliably where I had them placed for 3 years. They disappeared this winter, but not their fault . . . the voles left little holes for all the Clips as well as all my Stoksia, a Pulmonaria 'Majeste' and a wonderful almost red Dianthus deltoides 'Brilliancy' that like the Clips bloomed from May through hard freeze.
I am going to go on a hunt for C. trachelium. It's been mentioned several times recently, and looks like a lovely plant.
My Mammoth mums have since gotten quite large. Problem is that they flop like crazy once in bloom when it rains and it thins out in the middle so it needs dividing. This is just a mum issue in general IMO.
Obviously hardy enough after its established. Coldest winter in 30 years 2 seasons ago and 6th coldest Feb on record this year with very little snow cover.
I ended up removing most of my mums and only have one Mammoth mum remaining as it doesn't have any tree or shrub roots I have to worry about with all the dividing/thinning it requires.
Its pretty grand looking when its not flopping though. Neighbourhood women swoon over it.
My Mammoth mums have since gotten quite large. Problem is that they flop like crazy once in bloom when it rains
I jumped on the MM bandwagon and had great success with "Dark Pink Daisy". It was so floriferous in its first year last season. But as you have noted, I experienced similarly i.e. a complete flop while in full bloom last Fall.
It easily survived this past harsh winter and it has been so vigorous this season. AND I have regularly pruned it all over thereby hoping to lessen the likelihood of another flop. I am actually debating right now whether to trim some more this week....getting a bit long into the summer...dont want to delay too long those amazzing flowers!
ken, I did cut them down and that's when I saw all the larvae wriggling around in the mulch and climbing up on what was left of the stems. Just wanted to know whether I needed to get rid of them so they wouldn't migrate to the knockout roses that are close by. Looks like the birds took care of them, because I didn't see any left this morning. Except one dead one.
many ..... many bugs.. are highly specific to a certain plant ... and that is why in this case .. the population exploded.. and did the damage ... on this one type plant ...
it took me a lot of years.. to understand.. that doesnt mean i have to spray everything for 2 miles around.. for that given threat ...
and never forget.. this years plague.. probably wont be back for 10 years ... so dont go all hairy on worrying about it next year ..
but if they do come back next year.. just get rid of the plant.. and find something more interesting... that wont have this bug problem ...
too many peeps rather eradicate a bug.. than just get rid of a 5 dollar plant... spending 20 bucks on some cure... whats that all about.. lol ... just get rid of the problem.. the plant.. not the bug ...
ken
I wish the guy who built the other iron structures we have hadn't retired. I'm sure he could have built something for me for a whole lot less! I'm sitting here searching the Internet, thinking about how I could make a cheapie version myself using things like bird feeder pole hangers and copper pipes/tubing perhaps. Wouldn't be as elegant, but now that I have the idea in my head, I'll think of a way to so something!
The leaves should be dark red/maroon. If the plant does not get sunlight, then the leaves will be green - they need the exposure to sunlight to develop that maroon color.
The flower petals might not open fully if it is cloudy/rainy.
Just give it some time and it should be fine.
This plant is late to sprout in Spring. So next spring, do not despair if you do not see the new growth until May/June. Once the new leaves appear, it grows very fast and reaches full size in a matter of weeks.
I planted under my two maples before any one told me it was difficult/impossible to do so. I have not found it that difficult. I do water weekly or even twice weekly during a drought, which we do not get often. I also mulch yearly in late Spring and spread compost. This is very bright shade though since trees face South. There is no direct sunlight though except for the Southern edge of this bed where you see the rudbeckia. I also have a clump of rudbeckia in total shade and they do well there too. This picture is from September of 2014 and the beds were installed in 2006. Plants are most of the ones mentioned already, epimedium, hosta, grasses, turtlehead, anemones, rudbeckia, ferns, geraniums, lungwort, ligularia, yellow waxbells, solomon's seal.
Nope - that's not powdery mildew. It seems the culprit has been identified in your other post as sawfly larvae.
Powdery mildew is very heavily influenced by climatic conditions but not necessarily rain. In fact, rain or irrigation water generally destroys the spores that lead to PM. It is most often encouraged by warm, high humidity conditions and dry soils, which explains why it typically shows up late season when these conditions are most prevalent.
new posts are always good ... its about your plant.. in your area .. etc ...
unless they clearly IDd the problem ... in which case.. you already got your answer ...
you cant kill LOV ... i wouldnt worry about it ... there is always next.. not every year is a great one.. the farmers lament .. lol ...
removal of competition wouldnt hurt ...
ken
Well the deed is done. I lifted the Dicentra and Rodgersia, the Arisaema was near a Camellia and had been for a few years, so I thought the roots would probably be too intertwined. I treated them only with the fungicides, I figured there was too much of a risk of interaction between them and the peroxide. Here is a picture of the Rodgersia. The plant was mostly green as of last week.