13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Well I'm the opposite. I can't get rid of anything or throw any plant out, ( well maybe mint plant? anyone want some mind plant?????) I have so many iris that need dividing, and I just can't throw any out, even the babies. Major problem...........running out of room everywhere to plant stuff. Wish I could be so brutal as you. Can't even throw out the seedpods from the perennials I cut down! I think I have a real problem...................

Well, we are going to put in a 3' wide flagstone paver path down through a perennial garden in the spring so LOTS of stuff will have to be shoveled. I look forward to it and the new look that will be given to the garden.
Next will be a flagstone path down the hill right through the middle of another huge overgrown garden. Well, we are the top of the food chain, after all. (or are we?)


I have Tiarella rosalie cordifolia planted by my pond. Well thats what the labels say but the blooms are white on it. Anyway I also have Arum Italicum bulbs planted underneath and the arum is beautiful in the spring but after the leaves die back I don't have bare soil, the Tiarella starts blooming.
Actually most people think that the Tiarella and the orange seed heads from the Arum are the same plant.

Thanks so much --- will put it on my spring calendar to pinch until July 1st. I have about 30 of the plants so I never noticed whether or not they were full. They form a tall hedge around the patio. The beetles especially like the white blooms. Even years when the bugs weren't so bad, I never got to enjoy my white ones.

I am lucky not to have much of a problem with JBs - I got rid of my Blanc Double de Coubert white rose because they really were drawn to that! (I read somewhere that they have a preference for white flowers and it seemed to be true). Robins in spring love to eat the grubs (as do skunks!). When we were digging out dead grass the spring we got rid of the rose, the robins lined up on the electrical wires and the top of the abour waiting for us to put out the grubs for them to eat! It got so that whenever they saw us appear they'd head for 'the feeding station' and yammer at us to hurry :-)
Different hibiscus varieties have different flower times so you might want to try different varieties. Here, Disco Belle and Lord Baltimore are the earliest - late June/early July. My dark pink 'the child' Disco Belle seedling started blooming much later (end of July) and continued to the end of October. Fireball' doesn't start until August. I don't pinch any of them but pinching should help you. But be on the look-out for later blooming varieties too.

Bad bad Kevin. Now I know where all of these beasties came from!!!!! This was the worst ever summer for the Japanese beetles. They came in droves and must have emailed their friends still buried underground because more and more kept emerging. Usually they are here for 6-8 weeks. We still had them the middle of October (not as many and the damage was already done.)
They are the reason I have never tried to grow roses. They completely took away my love for perennial hibiscus and I was even thinking of pulling them all out a few months ago. SO FRUSTRATING. But I didn't because that would be admitting defeat. THIS IS WAR.
And we think we are at the top of the food chain.

My rhubarb is a division from our former neighbor and landlord at a previous home. It is far less tart and so needs much less sugar than many types, but I don't know what variety it is. I usually make strawberry rhubarb pie or sometimes crisp which is the same as the pie, but without a bottom crust and in a larger dish.
I haven't found that the leaves look unattractive until they die in the fall when it gets below freezing, at which point they go into the compost heap along with a bunch of other stuff.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
In a small bowl mix:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp cinnamon
(depending on the size of the pie, this will not all be used.)
In the bottom of a 9â deep dish pie crust sprinkle:
1/2 Tbsp uncooked tapioca
Layer in alternating layers:
sliced rhubarb
strawberry slices
Every two layers lightly sprinkle fruit with the cinnamon-sugar-flour mixture.
Repeat until pie is about full.
Topping:
In another dish mix:
1/4 cup each butter and safflower oil
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour
1 cup quick cook (not instant) oatmeal
1/2 tsp cinnamon
a teaspoon or so of water
This will cover two pies when spread thinly over the top.

We grow rhubarb in our backyard and one of the best recipes that I enjoy is rhubarb cobbler made from rhubarb picked fresh from the garden. It is soooo good. I'm going to check out the recipes posted for rhubarb pie as well since my DH loves rhubarb.



I grew white fireweed for many years in a fairly shaded bed next to my compost. It was quite well behaved there, and only ran a bit. Eventually I lost it, likely because of being too shaded. Someday I would like to get another one, if I can find a nursery in Canada that has either seeds or plants.

Thanks everyone, especially campanula, I think the climate is somewhat similar.
---
so, yes I ordered my stuff, the Epilobium, 2 Phlox amplifolium and a number of hardy Geranium as edging plants.
So, next season, 2014, everything will be much better, won`t it....
looking forward to it, have a nice weekend,
bye, Lin

Not all MG has fert in it, but I would agree, also worrying it might not be evenly mixed or too strong for house plants - or I'll forget and fertilize when fert'ing other plants. If all your plants are in that, the last wouldn't be a concern for you. The issues folks can have with peaty potting soil usually take more than a few months to manifest, so, worst-case-scenario, you won't like it and can change it again in the spring. Compared to having its' roots crammed/with no soil, the fern would probably pick the MG even if something else might be preferable. Ferns aren't that picky, IMHO/E. FWIW, I put a few plants in the ground last spring and they stayed evergreen, through a winter-low of 25 here. Same thing at my Mom's house a few miles away. They seem to be much more concerned about not drying out.

in case you get no specific answer ... speaking generally ....
looking at images on google...
i would cut it in half... repot half.. and keep in full shade for a week or so.. to get it over the stress ... and then plant it in the garden ... for a show this year ....
and i would dissect the other part into as many pieces as i wanted .... .. expecting not much of a show this year ... but growing on the volume i want.. for the big show next year ...
do not confuse instant gratification ... with propagating a single into the volume you want/need ... the flower show will come ... next year.. at worse ..
ken

I am assuming you want plants that draw attention and comments/questions from onlookers due to their unusual characteristics or simply because they are not typical of what you usually see growing. These are plants that I call 'head-turners" and they make people slow down to gape and point at your garden while driving by.
I think I can give you some suggestions guaranteed to different and not be duplicated anywhere else within miles. Personally I think its best to develop a theme and stay with it rather than having a lot of attention getters like a museum collection of unusual plants. This means not every plant needs to be a focal point but should fit into the scheme in a harmonious way. The use of appropriate fillers makes a scheme like this work.
Big rocks strategically placed can add to the unusual and taking out a standard lawn and replacing it with gravel, pavers and/or very low growing native grass & small native forbs really makes it different not to mention low maintenance. It depends on how far you wish to take it or what your neighborhood will allow.
If you decide to plant cactus, Cold Hardy Cactus online offers a very wide variety of them with differing pad textures/color, sizes and color of blooms in spring and bright pears in autumn for year round color and texture interest. You need good drainage and full sun, this is more important than temperature for success. I have dozens of varieties and they do quite well because I am on a slope. Native grasses and forbs are a good way to bring it all together and create a very unique, unusual landscape.
Here are some focal point plants with descriptions that will grow in zone 6 that have not been listed in the above posts that would create a Southwest flavor.
DESERT SPOON-- (Dasylirion wheeleri) 3 ft wide dome of stiff light blue ribbon like leaves with hooked thorns along the edges. Puts up a tall flowering spike 12 ft tall when mature.
LEAD PLANT--( Amorpha canescens) 5' x 5' drought tolerant native prairie shrub with soft grey leaves running up stems in bean formation. Spikes of indigo flowers in fall. Considered one of the most ancient prairie species. Very pretty.
YELLOW BIRD OF PARADISE-- (Caesalpinia gilliesii) Rows of small leaflets on an airy plant with big yellow flowers each with a long red sex filament. Blooms summer through early freezes.
APACHE PLUME--(Fallugia paradoxa) White rose flowers cover plant while simultaneously forming abundant plumed silky pink seedheads. Tiny leaves, the whole plant looks feathery. Looks great with low growing evergreens or native/ornamental grasses.
BEARGRASS--(Nolina microcarpa or N. texensis) 3 ft tall evergreen with multitude of thin long shiny leaves that curl on the tips. Puts out a bloom in summer, looks grasslike but its not, its in the lily plant group.
BIG SACATON (Sacaton wrightii) an impressive no care ornamental grass that puts up golden feathery seed heads in mid summer to 7 ft tall. Very distinct and different from what you usually see in the nursery's for ornamental grasses. This grass glows yellow in afternoon sunlight.
DEERGRASS (Muhlenbergia rigens) handsome commanding ornamental grass 4ft x 4ft with thin spikes that grow straight up and out like a large fireworks display. Gorgeous.
MEXICAN FEATHERGRASS--- Delicate silky grass low growing that is golden and soft all spring and summer. Good to tie in plants together or for textural contrast.
CHOLLA CACTUS--- many varieties available. Adds a strong sculptural element. Cold Hardy Cactus has one called 'Snow Leopard' that literally glows in sunlight or on a moonlit night from the dense white spines covering it.
SPANISH BROOM--- A big leafless green plant that looks like thin pencils all season or you could say it resembles a big weird grass plant except in spring when it is smothered in yellow pea like flowers making everyone ask "What is that?". Otherwise, its sculptural
JIMSONWEED (Datura wrightii) large shrublike native perennial 3-4 ft high with large soft blue leaves enormous 8" white trumpet flowers. Attracts bees like crazy.
YUCCA ROSTRATA--Very blue leaves forming a perfectly round head and a short truck (eventually). Monrovia has a very nice one available to nursery's you could probably find online. A very user friendly yucca since it won't try to stab you.
'MISS HUFF' HARDY LANTANA. It is reported to be the most cold hardy lantana around. Some reports list it hardy to zone 6. The 'unusual' factor here would be to have a 6 ft wide lantana in your zone 6 yard blooming heavily all summer making you the envy of many as butterflies flock in massive numbers. Thats how big it gets in a single season and if you don't trim it until spring and mulch it in winter, you might just be able to do one successfully. Its worth a try. Almost Eden online carries it. Cuttings are easy to root if you want to winter one over indoors for insurance or make more of them easily.
COLD HARDY AGAVE-- There are some that will grow well in zone 6. Parryii, Utahensis and others. Kelly Grummons at Cold Hardy Cactus carries them as well as some small barrel types that are also hardy. He also carried various Yucca plants that are hardy.
Good source for seeds of the plants above is Plants of the Southwest. You won't find them locally, you will need to search online but then, thats what makes them unusual and why you won't see them growing locally in your city. Unusual is a relative thing. What is common in one place is unusual in another.
I grow all of these successfully in the midwest in zone 7 with around 30" annual rainfall but they can take zone 6. You do need good drainage though for some and tweezers on hand for others. Cactus are not for everyone but nothing else can make such a statement.

Bill RI posted some photos of his garden, including cacti in fruit in the link below. Part way down the thread he answers a couple of questions about growing cacti in zone 6 RI.
Here is a link that might be useful: Late season color in New England

Hi Linnea, you're the only person I've seen to have this wonderful ground cover. Mine in zone 9 is in full sun, gets watered when I remember, slowly creeps to perhaps double its size in 1 year (it's in slightly improved clay). I love its lush mat. Great color and texture. It does have one period every year when I think it dying - think that's about now. Easy to spade out a piece for transplanting. Stays under 4 inches in height (usually about 2 inches here).

There are a couple of plants called chamomile.
Matricaria recutita AKA German Chamomile is an annual.
Chamaemelum nobile AKA Roman Chamomile is a perennial that should be hardy for you. Do you know which you have?
I have the annual one as a weed and it does self-seed around in the lawn and in areas of poorer soil.


Mahogany ajuga works well for me and spreads slowly. The blue flowers in Spring are lovely. Seems to take little care. I am gradually digging and transplanting to edge a rather long flower bed. The plant stays lovely all summer. Mine is growing in rather heavy soil and does very well. Mary






The only variegated lavender cultivar that popped up on Google was 'Goldberg.' The link below gives some details but doesn't identify a hardiness zone.
I didn't have much success growing lavender in my garden even though I grew several cultivars from seed via winter sowing. A few plants came back the first couple of years but eventually they all disappeared. I'm more of a 'plant it & forget it' type of gardener--if it doesn't thrive on neglect, it doesn't belong in my garden.
Good luck identifying & growing your mystery lavender!
Here is a link that might be useful: Variegated lavender 'Goldberg'
I have a Lavandula x intermedia 'Goldburg' a couple of years ago. It didn't survive the first winter. My experience so far is all Lavandula x intermedia are not hardy to my area. However, this one is so ornamental that I will try it again and again if I can find it again.
I have a Lavandula angustifolia 'Silver Edge' that is hardy to my area but not nearly as showy as 'Goldburg'.