13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

UPDATE
These 2 "Blue Cushions" easily survived the problematic winter and spring 2013. I moved them in late April and all was fine for this past summer. Although they were healthy they were probably not as floriferous as they could be due to a less than full sun location. I will give them one more season in this same spot just to be sure.

My lavender did beautifully this summer. I separated some of the seedlings and moved them to empty spots. All have survived and are flourishing. I do have quite sandy soil, so they certainly have excellent drainage. I hand water in times of drought and to help new plants get established, but generally skip over the lavender. They get only rain and whatever water happens to reach them from their neighbors. I never do soil tests, I just grow what seems to be happy. I do mulch with shredded leaves, mostly to dispose of the leaves. The lavender is in total sun from sun up to sun down, unless the mailbox throws any shade. Maybe sun exposure is more important than we've discussed. I have always grown lavender where it never has any shadow thrown anywhere close to it, so it gets every possible ray of sunshine.
Martha

Of course wonderful color.
I was blown away by a2zmom's stand of Kniphofia "Alcazar" she picture posted in August 2012 (see link below).
I went out and bought two of them late in the season but neither of them made it through this past winter :(.
(Earlier this summer I planted a Kniphofia "First Sunrise"; no flowers but it seems healthy and so I have my fingers crossed that it will make it through this winter).
Here is a link that might be useful: Torch Lily from last year


Hi monben, congratulations on your new home! It sounds like you have some gardening experience and a plan. I think you are on the right track. YouâÂÂve already identified those you want to keep, and those you want to move and add. YouâÂÂve decided to amend the soil. I would guess that any major amending would create a problem with your drip water system and so maybe you are trying to amend in just the areas where you are adding new plants which wouldnâÂÂt disturb the soil level. I think if I had two roses that were doing well, I wouldnâÂÂt want to dig them out and move them either.
If you are wanting to add agastaches, penstemons, lavender and ice plants and depending on how much clay soil you have there, it is important to make sure you have the right conditions for those plants. I have loamy clay soil and I have always thought it drains well, and I also mounded the soil in the bed but when I added agastaches and penstemons etc, they did okay but do not really thrive and lots of them have petered out over time. They really do need well draining soil, especially over winter in zone 4/5. IâÂÂve had trouble with agastaches and penstemons that didnâÂÂt come back in the spring and IâÂÂm in zone 6.
If you really want to not have to come back and make corrections, you might think about taking a soil test this fall. See if there are any amendments that are better off being added now. I would think it is too late in zone 4/5 to dig up and move existing plants. Even here in zone 6, I stopped moving plants awhile ago. I do plant potted plants even through November as long as I can dig in the soil.
If you want to improve your soil and give a little added protection over the winter, you could add a layer of chopped leaves and grass clippings on the surface of the bed and water them in and leave them until the spring. You will find an increase in earthworms for your trouble.
I would wait for spring to move the Peony and Geraniums. And just prepare the hole where it is going, and take as much soil with it as possible when you move it, water it in well and give it some shade for 3-7 days and it should work fine. I donâÂÂt grow Peonies, but if they are supposed to be in full sun, IâÂÂd make sure you give them that in the new location.
Sounds like a lot of fun, good luck!


The hybrid asters commonly found in garden centres are usually the dwarf cultivars such as Wood's Light Blue, Wood's Pink, Sapphire, Prof. Kippenburg, etc. They can get leaf diseases during rainy summers, but are otherwise reliable fall bloomers, if the rabbits don't eat them first. Most of them are hybrids of several species asters, including the New York aster.

mad_gallica - thanks for that soil info which would explain my utter failure to grow lavender where I am. Sounds like the fact that my soil is lovely, well-drained acid sandy loam is probably a dead giveaway why I've had zero luck growing it here except in containers. It always helps to accept what you can change and what you can't.

I'm going to disagree with the above.......it is ALL about drainage and winter moisture conditions with only a slight impact from soil pH :-) First, most plants tolerate a pretty wide range of pH and lavender fits into this tolerance range as well, although not as wide a range as many other plants (6.5-7.5 is preferred). The PNW is one of the largest commercial lavender growing areas in the US and we have naturally acidic soils. Lavender thrives here, despite having rather wet winters. The key is to ensure good drainage - I can't imagine lavender dealing with clay soils at all regardless of pH. The only time hardiness is at issue here is if fast drainage is compromised, like in clay soils. (and excessive fertility and too frequent irrigation, but that's another issue).
As to transplanting now, in zone 5 I'd opt to wait until spring if possible. Lavender is marginally hardy inground in your zone and planting this late in the season does not provide sufficient time for the plant to become established before cold weather sets in and increases the chances for cold damage/death over winter.


When my folks were alive, they lived in Michigan's U.P. and I visited them from Chicago. They had five acres of woods, and I decided to dig up some ferns to use in my shade garden back home. Boy, did THAT turn out to be a backbreaking project! Those babies did NOT want to leave Michigan!
I didn't get as many as I had hoped for, but a few years after they were planted in Chicago, under some juniper trees, they were MAGNIFICENT. One of the things I hated most about leaving my Chicago garden was leaving the ferns from Mom and Dad's woods in Michigan. But Kansas is really the last place they'd want to be. (I'm not too crazy about it either!)

When I'm picking plants for a bed, I usually try and find the ones that are variegated or have leaves other than run-of-the-mill green.
Variegated varieties: Solomon's seal, Jacob's ladder (touch of class), obedient plant, heliopsis (Lorraine sunshine), brunnera (variegata), lysmachia (alexander), toad lily, phlox (nora leigh)
Silver leaves: lamium (I find it to be somewhat invasive), brunnera, pulmonaria, lychnis (gardners world), bleeding heart (burning heart)
Dark leaves: cimicifuga, lysmachia (purpurea), eupatorium (chocolate), ligularia, lobelia (queen Victoria), penstemon, euphorbia (bonfire)
Chartreuse leaves: bleeding heart (gold heart), spiderwort, (sweet kate) columbine (leprechaun's gold), agastache (golden jubilee), lamium
Hostas and heucheras are pretty snazzy too, and epimediums change color in the fall
Also, check into native plants - they're beautiful and butterfly magnets!


With ornamental grasses you can have tons of color at this time of year...and motion & sound as well! I adore them... and there are some for shade, humid areas and more! (Asters look fabulous with them.) Grasses can be red (Japanese blood grass) gold, brown, green, chartreuse.....variegated (such as Morning Light). Tall, medium or short. Heucheras offer various colors as well and Allium Ozawa blooms at this time of year as does Verbena bonariensis. I agree that foliage is autumn's good friend as far as color is concerned! And Amsonia hubrectii (mentioned above) is truly to die for....
This post was edited by gardenbug on Wed, Oct 16, 13 at 22:01


I don't know about GB specifically, but C montana doesn't like to be too wet. I've learned that when I buy perennials in pots to remove most of the soil they came with so I can have some say over the soil they are in when I put them in the ground. Maybe you know this too, but it's just something that comes to mind when someone says that a plant that is hardy in their zone doesn't come back, or doesn't grow. The peat just kind of collapses and collects water all winter to the detriment of a lot of plants. Also, if it isn't deadheaded it could sort of die back, or rest anyway, in the heat of summer, and then will grow back a new rosette in the fall if you don't get impatient with it and replace it. Anyway, heat and wet might be more of an issue than cold for this plant. This isn't a plant that will look good in August, at least not here.

LOL. Nothing wrong with jumping and clicking your heels - it's just your own version of the happy dance!
Glad to hear you haven't had problems with aster yellows. I have to admit I've never had this (knocking on wood as I type) but I've heard others describe it and it's good you've avoided it this year.
:)
Dee


Hi
How about cotoneaster? Many of them grow close to the ground. Scarlet leader is good, but can spread as a ground cover. Cranberry cotoneaster is also nice. What do you others think?
Hey Ken, thanks for the info about digging holes to invite existing roots!

Silver Brocade goes all over the place; you would have to prune it quite often if you are interested in a more sculptured look. I think the Silver Mound is a bit tidier but as some else mentioned, when it gets older, it tends to splay out and look messy. There are some really nice annual Dusty Millers that would look good in your design. I wonder if starting from seed would make it affordable to get so many plants?

hi donna
thanks for your reply. Dusty Miller is really what i wanted to begin with. unfortunately Dusty Miller seems to not be a very common plant here in the Netherlands and the only thing I can find is seeds which so happen to be sold out. I have not place to start so many plants to grow them. I already considered that. As of recently we have decided against the artemisia at this time and are considering heuchera instead. It seems like every day I learn something new about the plants I am considering that causes me to change my mind and consider something else and then the following day it happens all over again. This gaden planning stuff is hard!



Joe Pye weed is a great plant in the right place, beautifully suited to swamps and wetlands. It is a very large plant with a robust presence. It has an appealing scent. I don't think it would be well-suited to a small English garden - it's a space eater.
I don't care if people don't like the plants I grow or the way I garden. Because our gardens are public, we see the gamut of visitors. Most are kind. Occasionally, there is a gardening snob wandering through, but I have learned to ignore them. But everybody's garden is different and their experience of any given plant is bound to reflect that difference.
I didn't invent any of the plants I grow, so I cannot take it personally if anyone dislikes a particular plant. Also, my own tastes change. Plants I loved 15 years ago may now be banned from the garden, or they just might be working their way back into my own top 10 list.
I love my Joe Pyeweed. However, though I bought a dwarf variety from a reputable source it grew well over 6 feet (and boy did that look silly in the middle of my garden bed). I've moved it to the back and next year am going to try the advice I received of cutting the stems back by half (to just above a whorl of leaves) in June.