13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

I grew up in a home on land with several mature and juvenile hemlocks, and you need to be very, very careful of their root systems. If you plant lawn over their roots, or regularly use a riding lawn mower over their roots, you'll start to see the trees decline. My father lost several before getting good tree expert advice that helped save the rest: Mulch, don't plant, over their root zone.
He circled the area in an attractive way, put in large bark mulch, and in a spot here and there put in large rocks, or a clump of lilies, or a large specimen hosta. There were small bunches of spreading Lamium, too, but not much. On the whole, if you want the hemlock to thrive, you need to leave it alone. They are very, very sensitive to root compaction and competition. Also, they love coolness and moisture and need regular watering if they don't have their normal cool, damp forested habitat around them.
They're beautiful trees. Enjoy yours.

THE plant for dry shade--Geranium macrorrhizum--big Root Geranium. Semi evergreen, handsome groundcover, highly deer resistant, easy to control, very attractive with late spring bloom and no dead heading, dividing or other attention required. What more could you want? Alternate--Epimedium sulphureum--slower to fill in, must be cut back in late winter, but very attractive and has early bloom.
If you garden in deer country, as I do, there is very little point in planting plants that deer love. It's a losing battle. And while it is true that starving deer will eat anything, there is a huge range of plants for both sun and shade that they generally have very little interest in. If your yard has mostly unappealing plants, they won't hang out there much. That said, I ALWAYS spray a new plant with a good repellant so if some young thing tries it, their first experience is YUCK! They spread the word. And having said all that, yes, I do have a few plants that deer will eat, and I do spray those. But they are very few, so keeping up with the spraying is not onerous and doesn't break the bank. However, I have NO hostas, yews, or tulips--the ones that say "Free Lunch".

Another comparison of Silver & Sea Hearts, though the photos aren't as clear:

You might also want to check out Callirhoe digitata--a tall, very open and airy plant with gray/green stems and deep fuschia flowers scattered up and down the stems that look as if they're floating in air. The plant has a tiny footprint, is very see-through, and knocks out everyone who sees it. It seeds about very restrainedly, and can be easily transplanted when small. You'll love it.

I was thrilled when I found this garden center many years ago and try to visit as often as I can. It really is like no other. I looked at the real estate listing and there is a lovely looking home that goes with the business. Fingers crossed it sells to someone interested in maintaining things as they are. Otherwise, I've already warned my husband about all the plants I'm going to have to buy there before it closes.

I have been to LHorizons 3 times thus far this season. I had noticed in mid February that the owner (Larry) had posted a cryptic message asking if anyone would be interested in owning a unique nursery.
For a couple of years I have tried to convince my partner to sell and move to a larger property so I could garden till my heart's content. But to honest I would have such a difficult time even recreating the gardens I have now as so many of the plants are unique; obtained only or much easily from the now defunct "Garden Import" and LH.

i dont understand what the question is ...
why do you think it needs to be germinated .. do you have some evil plan??
there is a houseplant forum ... where you might find peeps with more experience with this houseplant... or ii should say.. growing it as a houseplant ...
ken

Hi Ken,
Thanks for commenting. Indeed, the question is what exactly this is. In case it is a sort of reproduction behaviour, then yes, I would like to know how to proceed to make it a new and independent plant. I have not found more info on how propagate oxalis triangularis, other than dividing the rhizomes.
Also, thank you for the info about the houseplant forum. I might check for similar questions or ask the same there.
Os

Forgot to mention that several were planted in the clay area that I used to call the Bermuda Triangle. They, and the Rudbeckia thrived there. The rest were in rocky, very lean soil, and they did the same. Full sun and they seem to be willing to grow anywhere. I'm also impressed with Solar Flare, and Hot Papaya. Both purchased at the same time and did just as well. Can you tell I love red? Here's the picture of a bloom just starting to change color.

see link based on name you gave ... i think you are growing a weed???
ken


UPDATE:
I sometimes think of what I'd do if I had the small property that comes with most newer houses these days. What I've learned making this garden would lead me to pay a lot of attention to 'negative space' and I could easily see using clipped trees in a space like that. Will your tree be in the front or back?
Here is the Scotch Pine standard as of today about 6 weeks after planting. (See it in the middle of the first picture?)

And now more to the left in the shot below:


You and your husband have done an awesome job! My next door neighbours moved away and the new people aren't gardeners...they let it become a weed patch. I felt so bad because there were some really nice plants in that garden (and my neighbour had asked me if I wanted any of them). If I had known the plants were going to die a miserable death, I would have taken them all.

It's great when hard work pays off, and now you're rewarded with a garden full of mature plants. The daylilies are really showing off. I'm sure a lot of us think about what will happen to our gardens and hope that anyone who gets them would take care of them and appreciate them.
Possibly some of the odd placement of plants in too much shade happened because years ago when they planted those things there wasn't as much shade before the trees and shrubs grew so big.

What is the pink flowering plant in the top photo? It sort of looks like penstemon.

If you don't want it self seeding all over, take it out. This is a freely seeding annual species of euphorbia, not necessarily one with any garden worth. And its reputation for deterring moles is just that - reputation only :-) There is no scientific data to support any claims that it actually repels moles or gophers.

I wasn't really sold on it. It was a tag along from other plants. I don't see that it has much of a garden performance other than the (fading) rumor of repelling moles and gophers. I don't see that it has much of a bloom and, as a plant, it has scarcely an added attraction as texture for my garden.
Unless anyone has anything positive to say about this, I guess I will be plucking them out now so I won;t be plucking them out for the rest of my life....

I am approx. 40 miles SW of Ottawa. And you?
You should not need to remove any roots/stems of the plant, let it reach it's full potential . Is your 7 hrs. of sun from dawn onward?
Marie I like the scent but appreciate everyone having a different nose for scents.


I've had a Munstead going for 14 years now. I recently moved it to an exposed, all day sun area and it's looking better than ever. All I do is shear it back every fall. Great plant.
I've got a NOID lavender that I've had for over 10 years, comes back beautifully every year. All I do is trim it back to almost ground level in spring. Agree with above that it's the soil and sharp drainage that matters. I don't think it has to do with the humidity. I planted some lavender as "fillers" in a bed that has heavier soil and tends to hold moisture well and not one of them made it through the first winter.