13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
molie, I am sorry I missed your question. The daylily does not have a name. On another garden forum a lady sales her seedlings that she has hybridized hopping to get something to register. So it is a mix of other lilies to make this one.
She has sent me some pretty different looking daylilies. I think they are better than what I have purchased with names.
I have loads of these Red Milkweed Beetles and their eggs, all over both varieties of my swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata, pink and white varieties). They eat the living daylights out of the leaves every year, and some of the leaves are discolored and blackened like yours, but I don't think that's because of the beetle. The plants have been hardy and come back fuller each year, so I doubt they're harming them all that much. Besides, the bees love the flowers, so I leave it all as is and let nature do its thing. Cheers!
Here is a link that might be useful: NickiGreenwood.com
I get swarms of milkweed bugs every year and I never touch them. Milkweeds are seed producing factories imo, so if the bugs want to eat a few of the zillion seeds produces, have it.
At this point, I dead head that plant religiously anyway. I have two nice stands so I don't need any more.
I had a clematis last year I thought was dead. It sent up a vine or two and crisped up promptly after that. When I gave two other clematis away I gave them the "crispy" one, too and said best of luck to ya but I promise nothing. Well, this year its growing! I guess not as much as the others but its giving it its all.
Depending on the nurseries in your area (and I'm even going to say Lowes and HD) you should definitely go look in the fall. I went last year around mid september and bought boxwoods for like 70% off and limelight hydrangea for like $5 and ech. ruby star for $3 all from lowes. I went to a local nursery and came back with a few russian sages, sage meadow salvias, creeping sedums and it probably only cost me around$10-12. And, for me at least, it seems like everything I planted last fall is miles ahead of things I planted last spring!
listen...
i said.. told you .. what i do ...
what i do.. on 5 acres.. is move things.. and forget.. lol ... remembering and caring for 95% of them.. and then next spring.. i find the dead stubs of the others... lol...
and you can NOT forget such.. in july/august... as just a day or two with no water is a killer ...
so the default... and the easy way.. are you listening newbies... is simply not to do it this time of year ....
but if you can insure sublime perfect aftercare... you can do just about anything... anytime..
if you are going to be there.. every day for a week or two.. dig up the clem..and find out what is going on underground .... its really hard to guess....
ken
No, the compost pile got them as soon as the snow melted in the middle of May.
I know for those in warm climates, similar to their natural habitat, they can be planted in the gardens and become beautiful specimens. For me the storing and gauging light and dark cycles, trying to coax a rebloom etc. etc. is just too much trouble... especially for an inexpensive plant, fresh and readily available just about anywhere beginning in December.
Yours looks good - already being late July.
Oh another thought- Utzy if your plants are all new nursery plants, they will need some time to settle in to your garden. Their growth pattern in a container will not be the same as when they're established themselves in your garden soil. Plus the nursery may have been over-fertlizing them. Next year they will no doubt have a better appearance!
Re: milkweed, well I manage mine closely! Ma nature knows what she's doing, but her beautiful order has been terribly disrupted by mankind, so the Monarchs need all the help they can get. I patrol them milkweed plants regularly for insects, many of which are predators of the Monarch larvae, or degrade the quality of the foliage.
I also regularly pinch and sometimes cut back the Common milkweed by half or so, because this prompts them to send up tender fresh new shoots, which are much more palatable for small Monarch caterpillars (they have a hard time chewing through the tough big leaves).
Now I just need some Monarch mamas to come through!
Pea sticks look more natural than wire, plastic, velcro etc and are hidden as the plants grow. They need to be put in before the plants get too tall.
Here is a link that might be useful: Supporting perennials
I agree with those whose strong advice is don't use them in mixed perennial borders.
However, walls and concrete or (deep) gravel paths can stop them dead.
Planting next to other thuggy plants and also poor growing conditions help.
In my experience runners are much worse, in mixed perennial borders, than seeders. Seedlings tend to get shaded out by taller plants and deadheading, to extent bloom time and enhance flower attractiveness, is a big help.
It's the runners that scare me. I have a small garden and not a lot of places to put a thug. The only two plants that are considered aggressive are vinca and lamium. That's about it. The lamium is in a 4ft wide alley between my house and the garage and has stayed put. The vinca is under my front Maple that is bordered by the street on one side, the driveway on another, a fence line on the other and the fourth side is a rock edging that has about 15ft of mulch on the other side of the rocks. I haven't had any trouble with it going anywhere.
I naturalized thousands of bulbs when I lived in Iowa, and did the same on a smaller scale in Massachusetts. It's probably because I don't care about having a neat lawn but I liked seeing narcissus, scilla, species tulips and snowdrops in early spring. I wanted a show starting around March. The foliage looked ratty as grass was beginning to grow. For about a month, I had too-long grass, but by late May, I could mow the bulb foliage down.
I have seen the banks of daffs in England in spring as flora mentions. This was my inspiration. After a long dreary winter, spring flowers lifted my spirits.
Cheryl
I don't know anything about that particular Coreopsis, but feverfew needs to be deadheaded religiously or you'll have it everywhere. Mine grows in unirrigated areas like the gravel driveway, but I also get fairly regular rain most years. I also think that feverfew works best as a biennial since the plant doesn't look very good after blooming IME. In general the Coreopsis (mostly thread-leafed and lanceolata varieties) I've grown have been much easier and more decorative.
I was growing it by accident for 2 years or so(survived 2 very mild winters). It was mixed in some other bulbs. What was most amazing about it was, that with me it was leafing out in the late autumn and the foliage survived.I never understood what was going on.
Molie, it's not just lavenders, of course. Well Sweep sells close to 2000 different perennials, the vast majority they propagate themselves. It's a family owned and run business; the third generation now works there - I spent some time talking to their grandson who just graduated with a degree in plant biology.
Truly a plant lover's dream nursery.
Count me in as another lover of Brent and Becky's.
Although this year I never got a chance to do so, most years I buy a few dahlias from them (I am just too lazy to dig them up at the end of the season.) I've bought other things from them over the years, always extremely healthy.
Two years ago I bought some Kniphofia 'Alcazar' from them and left them in my garage for two weeks during a heat wave completely forgetting that Kniphofia is not a bulb. When I finally planted them, the plants drooped for a while but eventually settled in and are now gorgeous plants. Now that's impressive and a testament to the size and health of what they sent.
Hi trovesoftrilliums,
Sorry for not replying sooner, I'm using an Achla Lattice Trellis, which is okay for right now, but isnt that sturdy and is only a placeholder until I can find something larger and sturdier.
April
Here is a link that might be useful: Achla Lattice Trellis