13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
For me, Stylophorum diphyllum is very well behaved. It does set a good number of curiously ornamental pods filled with copious amounts of seed which is carried off almost instantly by ants who are attracted to the elaiosomes. I have not noticed any seedlings yet, and there are no seedlings to be found around my neighbors' more established plantings either.
I do wish mine would multiply, so this year I have been intercepting the pods as they start to turn yellow, right before bursting open. I have been scratching the fresh seed into the soil where I hope some will germinate in the spring.
I have read that even the small seedlings are easy to identify and remove. This plant will not regrow from root fragments left behind once pulled up.
There are many other plants called wood poppy or celandine that can be invasive. The most notorious are Chelidonium majus--a European import that can look shockingly like Stylophorum diphyllum--and Ranunculus ficaria.
Here is a link that might be useful: Confusion over Celandine--Scott Arboretum
rouge - it's not that the property is big but that the spot the mukdenia is in is damp (LOTS of mosquitoes!) and there are roots of a pussy willow tree that I tend to trip over when trying to get down there! We bought the mukdenia at the RBG plant sale in early May. I was still in a cast at that point so I told DH where to plant it - I wasn't entirely sure he fully understood where to put it.... I haven't wanted to risk tripping over the tree roots so I've not gone down to see what's happened to the mukdenia. I just sent DH down to take a picture of it for me. He had trouble finding it at first since he planted it too close to a hosta and it was hidden under the hosta leaves! Clearly it'll need to be moved next spring. But it seems to be doing OK:
Veronica Romiley Purple and Sunny Border Blue would both do well there for a spiked plant. Both would stay more compact and upright than Salvia or catmint. Both do well for me with some sun or full sun. Excellent plants and other colors to choose from.
For some reason, they liked to get powdery mildew, where I lived before. Now I'm closer to the beach, but maybe there is a bit more air movement and there isn't a swimming pool next door, either.
I've Eva Cullem, Blue Paradise, Red= Starfire(?) White , probably David and seedling from it that looks just like the lavender form of it. Orange Perfection, which I would not have purchased had I not seen it in person. But there is Dusterlohe, which goes by another American name, I've forgotten, or otherwise its sometimes just listed as 'Purple'' by inexpensive mail order. I really preferred Mt Fuji, or Fujiyama, to David. The flower heads were larger and had a yellowish eye. But in heavy rain, the panicles might flop, when in full bloom.
Blue Paradise is spectacular colors in the early morning and/or at sunset, welll at least shade in either start or end of the day, for better enjoyment,
Trying a new 'Tiara'or double white, but maybe due to being underfed (?), it had small flowers and wasn't double florets, in any case. Possibly too young, might be reason for that. Not sure.
But newer ones seemed to all have smaller flowers, and shorter. Not sure if they 'Volcano series, or what. Not certain how to avoid fungus, other than possibly divide the plants, for better circulation, or remove lower leaves and then don't place them as close to the edge of the border.
I love border phlox, especially when it is highly fragrant *and* mildew free. I know of three resources to find out more about which cultivars are likely to do well in hot, humid conditions:
1. Plant Delights Nursery. If they grow and sell it, it is likely to do well in hot, humid conditions without mildew.
2. Niche Gardens. The same comments above apply here, too.
3. Perennial Pleasures Nursery. Although located in northern Vermont, the owner is a phlox collector and has years of experience. She could probably recommend which of her plants are likely to do well in your conditions. Almost all of my phlox has come from this nursery. I highly recommend it!
Hope this helps,
Ispahan
Here is a link that might be useful: Perennial Pleasures Nursery
Catananche caerulea/Cupid's dart. It's quite pretty. I grew it from seed via the winter sowing method but even that couldn't bring it back after Y2. Mine did bloom lovely the second year after being grown from seed but it wasn't long-lived or reliably hardy in my garden. Could be due to soil conditions, moisture or other factors but I don't count on it returning year after year the same as false indigo, coreopsis or lots of other long-lived plants.
I've had good luck with Sluggo Plus for earwigs - suggested by a local organic nursery. This is the year of the bug in Southern CT. Every time I turn around, another new species is eating something. On the plus side, I am no longer squeamish about insects - I pick them off the plant and squish them with my bare hands. It's a bit like how intimate you become with snot when you have a 2 yr old! TMI??
Thanks for the information! I never heard of aster yellows before. The diseased one is removed; time will tell about the other two. I'm assuming I shouldn't put a new plant in the hole anytime soon....
This post was edited by sjharris53 on Sat, Jul 13, 13 at 16:31
I think there is just differences in the plants, even from seed. I guess they are like children. I grew several Arizona Apricots from seed, and all are shorter than 12 in. Two are about the same diameter clumps. One died altogether, and one is about 6 in. in diameter. They are planted in a row, so its not like they have different growing conditions. One bloomed earIier, one is blooming now, and one is yet to bloom. I don't fertilize my xeric plants, unless I see significant yellowing. I grew Arizona Sun at my other house, and it did get bigger over time, and it did reseed. The plants didn't last forever, but the seedlings that I had weren't ever really tall, not more than 18 in. They got about an inch of water every month, including rain. Here is AZ Apricot in its second year here:
The A. canadensis bloomed weakly this year because May was quite droughty and I don't water where they are growing. But the did bloom.
When I start columbine from seed, they sometimes don't bloom the 2nd year, if I get don't get the seedlings planted out until mid-late the first year.
Have no idea why established plants that have bloomed for years would not bloom! Very odd.
Thank you all for your wonderful input! I decided to try out Plant World since their selection looked amazing. I e-mailed a question and was surprised to see a response from Ray in less than two hours! I ended up ordering:
Geranium 'Syabru'
Aquilegia fragrans
Aquilegia 'Perfumed Garden'
Aquilegia 'Fragrant Fantasy'
Aquilegia 'Honeydew'
Aquilegia 'Oranges and Lemons'
Aquilegia yabeana
Silene 'Ray's Golden'
Helleborus foetidus 'Miss Jekyll's Scented'
And I have been so happy with the quality of seeds from Jelitto that I placed another order, this time for:
Meconopsis cambrica (Gold Nugget; pre-treated for quick germination)
Silene fimbriata
Aquilegia chrysantha 'Denver Gold'
Aquilegia canadensis 'Corbett'
Aquilegia viridiflora
So, yes, I have gone a bit columbine crazy! I have been so pleased with my pre-existing swarm of granny's bonnets that came with my house that I would like to work on them a bit and add different colors and fragrance into the mix.
I'm thinking tall and skinny as well. My first thought was that while tall and skinny works for the placement of the pots, it wouldn't work in those tall narrow urns, making it TOO tall and skinny and bottom-empty to boot. But now, in looking again and again at your photo, I'm rethinking that. Perhaps these pots will complement and enhance the tall and skinny look.
My first thought was ilex sky pencil. I'm not a great admirer of its form, but it does work well for these types of spots, and I believe it would be hardy and do well in the light conditions as well. You would have to double check the hardiness as I don't recall the exact zone off the top of my head. I think it calls for full sun but I grew one in part sun (in a pot) and it did fairly well. I ended up giving it away when I found something better for the spot.
I'm also thinking of ilex Castle Wall and/or Spire, which I think are more pyramidal. Not sure again exactly of zone or conditions, or even if this is "skinny" enough, but just going off the top of my head here.
Maybe ilex Earlibright? Again, sorry, not sure of zone, but I think this is a fairly narrow, upright form and would give great winter interest (if you have a pollinator nearby).
I seem to have ilex on the brain today, lol.
As a person who is terrified of pruning, I don't know if any of these would be amenable to pruning for size. I would think the Sky Pencil and Castle Wall would be, but not sure about the Earlibright.
And this may all be for nought if the zones aren't right....
Oh, one last thought - yucca? Golden Sword is quite nice, and while in bloom would give you the height you are looking for. And I think it is zone-4 hardy, so might work for you over winter as well. Not sure about sun exposure. I did grow these in pots on my back patio for winter interest, and they looked great over the winter, but died on me in spring from some kind of (I think) fungal thing.
Please let us know what you decide. This is kind of a challenge, in terms of perennials!
Dee
I have geranium wallichianum Buxton's Blue. It usually doesn't bloom until late summer, and has the best blue color under cooler conditions. It tends to be more lavender-ish in hot weather. Mine doesn't bloom heavily, but I like it anyway, since it blooms after all the other hardy geraniums have quit.