13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
You probably want to ask this question on the vegetable forum, though the varieties of peppers I grow, the stems are a bit too easily broken to braid easily. You also might want to be clearer in your question. Do you mean braid the stems while they are growing? Or braid them after harvest for drying? I am not sure why you would want to as they are growing since it would make the pepper fruits crowded and so they would grow funny (unless they were a really tiny variety.) In most parts of the US, peppers are grown as annuals.
Here is a link that might be useful: vegetable forum
laceyvail, I have a Baptisia australis planted too close to the house foundation and I tried digging into it a couple of years ago to move it and gave up. I'd love to know what tools you used to get yours out? Did the roots you left in the ground sprout new growth and how long do the divisions take to bloom?
Is your anemic astilbe going to flower? It looks like it's got some stunted bloom stalk kind of thing going on... I would actually consider tossing it, the other one looks so mch better and will spread out soon enough. Why waste your time on the other? Also it might have something that could spread to the good one....
asiatic beetles are a pain, sorry to hear you have them.
I didn't want to spray anything so I ended up going out there with a pail of soapy water, picking them off and dropping them in the water to drown. It's a bit on the strange side to be out there in the dark going over your plants with a flashlight, but..... the neighbors will talk and there's always that awkward run in with an evening dog walker, but it seemed to control them enough.
I heard someone suggest Surround, which is a clay based spray that's supposed to work... there are plenty of other sprays with chemicals that should work too but I've never gotten that serious about control. Maybe someone else has better ideas.
asiatic beetles are a pain, sorry to hear you have them.
I didn't want to spray anything so I ended up going out there with a pail of soapy water, picking them off and dropping them in the water to drown. It's a bit on the strange side to be out there in the dark going over your plants with a flashlight, but..... the neighbors will talk and there's always that awkward run in with an evening dog walker, but it seemed to control them enough.
I heard someone suggest Surround, which is a clay based spray that's supposed to work... there are plenty of other sprays with chemicals that should work too but I've never gotten that serious about control. Maybe someone else has better ideas.
Great close ups. My DH has an expensive camera (our son's reject when he upgraded to an even fancier and more expensive one) with several lens and other doodads. He hasn't learned to use all the extras and finds close ups are easier than ones of the whole plant or area. Since he has that good camera I haven't replaced my broken point and shoot.
I also deadhead some of my columbine for continued bloom. Follow the blossom stem down until you see an itty bitty bud or two which is where the new blossom comes. Some blossom stems will not have any buds further down. I noticed tonight those are usually the center blossom stem of a group of three or more closely placed blossoms. Once you know where the new blooms form it is very quick to snip, snip off the dead ones.
I would trade for it but I only want rather spectacular plants, not more ordinary like what I already have. No curb, we are in the country and I don't want strangers form Cl or FC coming to the house. I've thought about selling them..... but so much work, little money. I don't have enough great plants yet!
These are divisions, not cuttings, btw, I cut the dianthus with a spade to keep it the size I want so the excess is almost always rooted.
I throw out enough veronica georgia blue to cover an acre, really, lots of nice stuff, I just don't need more. I did give away all the stella daylilies though.
I feel better knowing other people throw it out too.
When one has to ask the question and finds it is more bother than joy. I give away and swap dozens and dozens of plants every year. This year I am thinking about throwing all my divisions in the compost heap as I am tiring out and don't want the hassle. No guilt.
Your seedlings should be good sized by August and adjust well to being planted out if you can water them as needed. Giving them a little shade when planted ( a pot nearby so shadow can shade them during hottest/sunniest part of day or a lawn chair nearby, etc.). Shouldn't be any problem surviving winter. The roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. If you are worried or some are tender perennials winter mulching after the ground freezes will help.
The voices of experience have spoken and you've received good counsel from the above posters. Generally speaking it's best to plant perennials when they won't be stressed by climate--specifically hot, dry periods without rain. Also, it's generally not recommended to plant things when they're blooming since they need all their resources at that time of year and being transplanted taxes them when they've no reserves on which to draw for sustenance.
You haven't deceived yourself into failure with perennials but are perhaps not being realistic about your expectations. Some perennials (more than others) take a year or several to establish themselves and provide the look you're expecting. Don't embrace the false hope you'll achieve your goal in Y1 or Y2 but allow yourself to enjoy your garden as it progresses through the seasons.
Just a few additional notes: blue poppy is not happy in Z6. From my reading, it prefers significantly colder temperatures. My own success with winter sown Verbascum is that it does not return after year one. The other perennials you referenced appear to be reliable in my Z6 garden.
I can only recommend that, rather than rely on a temporary greenhouse, you learn about winter sowing as a method of growing trees, shrubs & perennials from seed via the winter sowing method. You'll ultimately be vastly more happy & satisfied with your garden beds as a result. It's proven, it's reliable, FDA-certified and it's a low-cost, huge boost to what you hope to achieve.
Veronica 'Georgia Blue' will do well in this setting and spreads some, though not in a problematic way, so it will move outward as the Viburnum grows.
Carex 'Ice Dance' will grow well here, but for some folks a bit too well.
Lady's Mantle might work. Check to see if the height is more than you want.
^Just make sure you aren't bringing in bugs as well...
I keep many pots of perennials outside till they are a good flowering size - I make a long windbreak using poles and green shade netting and line the pots (at least 5inches, 1litre size) along the length of it. I can keep a few hundred pots going as long as they are both out of strong winds and direct sun. I water by hand, just running along the rows a few times with a 10litre can.