13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials


So after reading Jelitto's website more closely, it was actually â¬12 per GRAM of seeds. Still not cheap, but much more reasonable.
They state these seeds do not necessarily need a cold period to germinate so I went ahead and ordered some. They were slow to ship but customer service was very reliable and informative.
I sowed them last night in small pots and will now keep my fingers crossed for good germination. I would like to have some nice small plants ready for early fall planting this year, but I still have a few seeds leftover for wintersowing if it doesn't work out.
I now regret not ordering the Gold Nugget (primed for rapid germination) seeds of Thalictrum rochebruneanum...
This post was edited by ispahan on Wed, Jun 12, 13 at 17:34

I have heard the regular Geranium phaeum color is not a garden standout, but there are so many color variants available. I don't yet know how deep rooted this plant is, but maybe you could start with a mess of clones with different bloom and foliage colors and then rogue out any undesirable seedlings as they arise?
Geranium maculatum comes in a limited but beautiful color range from pure white to light pink to mauve to dark blue-pink. It is lovely and charming in all of its variants with colors that are never foo-foo or flat. The flowers always glow like beacons in the shade. It is even available with stunning bronze foliage that is surprisingly iridescent and stands out wonderfully, even in shadows. I much prefer 'Elizabeth Ann' over 'Espresso' for a dark-foliaged clone since it is taller, the flowers are larger and prettier, and because I think it is a generally superior clone. This species is very easy to transplant (or weed out, depending on your point of view) and handles heat and drought by simply going dormant for the rest of the season. If it gets enough moisture, however, the foliage will stay looking nice until it develops good autumn colors before dying down.
Also, for good spreading spring ephemerals don't overlook the smaller bulbs like Eranthis hyemalis, snowdrops, Siberian squill, Chionodoxa, Crocus tommasinianus, etc. And then Cyclamen hederifolium for autumn blooms.

cheers, Ispahan. Yep, bulbs are likely to be my first investment. The ground cover is negligible in the spring woods and poplars are late into leaf so am planning a major spring bulb show. The little blue bulbs are always good value and will probably go for 'in the green' planting for the snowdrops and bluebells.
Having ordered seeds for various large campanulas, including the dreaded rapunculoides, I have been amusing myself re-reading the various warnings about this evil beauty. Some garden writers really let their hair down when it comes to this bellflower. When it comes down to it though, I would rather have 5 acres of campanulas instead of 5 acres of nettles and hogweed.


"Horatio - I've read very good things about this one. I think it's one of the current favorites.
So far Zweiweltenkind is doing really, really well in its new location, but we haven't had any warm or hot weather yet - you know this never ending early spring weather this year. I'll see what happens when the scorching stuff sets in if it ever does.
When I moved this plant, I divided into 3 pieces. Right now the sum of those 3 divisions is much, much larger than the original plant if that makes any sense. To me, that says it's happy.
Kevin

Painter's Palette
Latin: Persicaria virginiana
If you let it flower you get some that are this color

and some are green/purple/red like this. It is the plant behind the fairy house

Here is a link that might be useful: Painter's Palette

I second what eclecticcottage said... Hostas were mine. As booberry85 said, they seemed the plant to get when you want to throw in the towel, especially here it seems. It wasn't until I got more into gardening that I started to appreciate them. Not to sound like a snob, either, but driving around, looking at houses with hostas in the landscape, now I can see when, where and how they're used either correctly or not. I still agree... I think a lot of people use them when they give up, have no clue, just want to be done with it, etc. but they do serve a great purpose and if used correctly can really make a garden.
I also have to say... I'm terrible about thinking of using shrubs and things. When I first started this gardening thing (yes, gardening thing... to emphasize the insanity) I thought "who needs shrubs". Well, turns out... me. The one area that I redid that features a shrub is probably my favorite garden, so now I'm going back to other areas and reevaluating what shrubs I might be able to move in ha ha

Highly doubtful. They are hardy to the high 20s only and we get substantially below that for sustained periods of time, even in our mildest winters. You won't be able to trap enough warmth to keep them going outdoors. Have you thought about trying to overwinter indoors?


I typically plant in a diagonal pattern, staggered rows, if you will, so it doesn't really look like actual rows, but it is easier to plant than random, I think. I'm no formal gardening girl, but I don't want to put a plant at the back that you can't see because it's too short! That is what I'm trying to avoid, more than anything and I don't want a color issue. I plant more by color and texture than anything else and obviously by height.
I lay all of my beds out on paper, too, before I plant them. With my last one, I'm at about 80% success rate with 20% moving/replacing thus far and this is it's first season, so I understand what you mean. I still think it helps to start from paper, I am much more creative that way than just standing out there, randomly planting. I have no preconception that everything will stay that way, though. Best chance for success starts with forethought, though, I think.
Thanks for the good luck! I am excited about this bed, echs are my favorite flower, so I am really happy that I can have a whole bed of them. :)

I think I have solved the problem, at least I hope. I think if I put the ruds along the 3-foot and 7-foot side of the bed, that will still basically be against the house and will serve as a backdrop for the echs. I think that will work. If not, then I can change it up next year.
Next question on this bed for ech lovers:
If you were starting a raised bed for echs, what blend would you use for the soil in this bed? In other words, what's the best mix of soil for an ech? The bed is about 16" deep, fyi. I have my own ideas, but, as always, some of you may have a better one. Percentages would be helpful! Thanks so much!


Zone 6b
I have more then below, but they are just from last year.. or i forget where they are.. so I will wait until they bloom to verify they are good from the winter.
Tangerine Dream
Hot Lava
Coconut Lime
Flame Thrower
Hot Papaya
All that Jazz
Cotton Candy
Green Envy
Green Jewel
Sunrise
Summer Sky
Summer Sun
Pica Bella
Pink Poodle
Tiki Torch
Raspberry Tart
Raspberry Truffle
Double Scoop Raspberry
Here's the ech beds so far this year. The paradox, pallida, and crosses with them are the first to bloom. Only a few of the hybrids have bloomed yet.




I've been getting rolls of flexible fencing and cutting it to size to fit around the plants. My bunnies only seem to go after the plants while they're still young. Once they start blooming, I remove the fencing and they tend to leave it alone. I do this will all bunny favorites.

I've had mine for 3 years and it does okay compared to the others. I will say it's not as floriferous as my other echs and the plant stays fairly compact. I do like the green flowers though so I keep it around and have collected seed from it to see it will throw any interest into the gene pool.

Thanks ken, I looked at some of the results and they're all talking about cane yuccas, the tree kinds, but then I finally found one person who said fall was the time to divide the clumping kind. I guess I'll try that and see what happens.... Even though I don't picture the leaves making it through a fall transplanting that well, but it can't look any worse than the divisions made in spring.
Weird for a plant that is almost indestructible.

Neil - I cut back my weigela each year because I planted it too close to my walkway, thinking (erroneously) that it grew to a very minimal (2 ft.) height. It actually gets 5 ft. tall & wide so it's a bit of a problem where it's currently growing. I prune mine back each year after it finishes flowering and, as campanula pointed out, thus far it doesn't appear to suffer from that. It's thriving in fact & currently has rather a wide habit. Even pruning doesn't keep it "in bounds" as much as I need. I've observed that each season it grows back to it's maximum height & width so I offered it to my neighbor next door. I tend to tend her flowerbeds in addition to my own.
As for the Siberian iris, the biggest concern with growing them in dappled shade might be diminished blooms but so far I haven't observed that to be the case in my Z6 garden. It's been my experience they're pretty much indestructible and bullet-proof as well as pest & disease-free.

I agree with miclino - more pictures of the overall garden, rather than close-ups of specific plants, would be good. I remember your thread on building the pergola and the garden. It looks like everything is growing and filling in well so I would like to see pictures that show how it is shaping up overall... DH has a tendency to take all garden pictures as close-ups too - unless I specifically state ' you have to include [whatever] so I can see the context' :-)

People here have good ideas I've never heard of. Sunflowers, who would have thought it? They wouldn't fit into spots I have in mind.
I know about the "chelsea chop" but never heard it called that. Been cutting and pinching back at least once early in the season phlox,monarda,asters,astermoeia (whatever it is called now), boltonia for years.
I'm sure the centhrantus can take it but I wouldn't dare try it on the poppies.
I don't have an interest in achillea anymore. But huge orange poppies with geranium magnificum and tall purple allium and a dash of yellow something are too gorgeous to give up. Honest, it gives me the biggest thrill of the gardening year. This year I propped the poppies up earlly with pea sticks and a harness and they look ok. The geranium magnificum is big and floppy too, but pea sticks work very well.
Can the geranium be cut back before blooming and still flower successfully? Of course if the bloom is delayed too much it won't flower with the poppy.
I find the idea of sinking a pot with the correct medium interesting. Can't hurt to try.
Thanks everyone,
idabean/Marie


It's too green and could benefit with some contrasting leaf colors and flowers other than white.
Kevin, when you have time you could put in some variegated Polygonatum to address leaf colour and a corydalis lutea and or a ligularia to get a yellow shade flower. (The ligularia would give a different foliage height to your garden which I find visually appealing).
Thanks for the comments and responses.
Yes, I could add some other plants and the suggestions were good ones, but I'm still very content to not do anything. Maybe that notion will change with time, but so far the desire to do so hasn't hit me.
rouge said:
"Kevin, when you have time you could put in some variegated Polygonatum...."
Actually, there is a planting of that on the other side of the azalea which you can't see in the photo. I divided and moved a bunch of that last fall and only kept a limited amount. I threw away buckets of that stuff, so it's going to be a few years before my patch is large enough to divide again.
Dee - No, I'm not concerned about the carpenter ants. I had those years and years ago long before this garden was created and haven't had a problem since treating for them back then.
As to the possible problems with the Podophyllum, I admit that will be an interesting situation to deal with. I did dig some a few years ago and found that it comes out of the ground very easily, with a garden fork. I don't think I'll try to dig it out however. What I'll probably do is just cut sections of it down early in the spring and keep at it if it re-sprouts. If a plant can't photosynthesize because the leaves and stems are gone, it will eventually die. I had that problem with wild, white violets at one point in time and that technique worked on them.
Kevin