13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Full sun should not cause rose foliage to burn, even in very hot climates. Would assume some sort of other issues at play here......watering, spraying while sun is up, fertilizer burn, etc.
btw, the USDA zones have nothing to do heat - they are a measure only of average minimum winter temperatures. For example, I live in a 8b/9 hardiness zone but it seldom gets much above 80F in summer.
Love that one! It does look fantastic to me too, that's a great flush of blooms. Same color as the last one I got for out front, matches the house. The one crispy tip I can see could be the result of a passing nibble.
Is the purple flower Clematis? Never sure when I can't see the foliage too.
KO's are fine in full sun here too, the more, the better, evergreen this past winter. The heat is late in arriving this year, but the past few weeks are near 90, and days in a row of much hotter temps are common, expected later in the summer.
When it comes to roses, I pay no attention to the leaves except to cut the ugly ones off if they're bothering me. When they look as nice as your plant, I do admire them though. After finally getting some long overdue rain and just having trimmed off a flush of finished blooms, I'm expecting a flush of new red foliage to admire, then more flowers.
On any rose, my policy is pretty simple and easy, either there are pretty flowers often enough to be pleasing, or there's a shovel pruning. What disease they may or may not have is irrelevant, because I wouldn't buy a substance for a disease and many roses seem to always have some imperfect leaves but bloom just fine anyway. I wouldn't buy one that had foliage maladies, but don't stress if some leaves aren't perfect later on.
Seems like the more fancy the name and price tag, the more diseased it will be. When healthy roses are really planted in full sun, not just some possibly incorrect idea of how much sun is good enough, they are nearly indestructible. Roses in shade part or most of the day are those that get to looking so bad they make you wonder how they are still alive, especially in the colder zones.
Another vote that it looks fine!
If there are roses bred to grow better in the north, less than full sun, or that are known to be overwhelmed by heat or sun in lower latitudes, I'm uninformed about that, and of course these comments would not apply. Hopefully someone who does know would make that clear for everyone.
absolutely - you can stool cotinus right back to a stump.....and many do for those really extra large leaves.
although they are shrubs, berberis and physocarpus have good deep tones, as does the delightful cercis 'Forest Pansy - which can also be kept small(ish).
OK, now THAT is intriguing. You never know what plants/shrubs will take hard pruning like that until you are told! So, I could basically "sculpt" it, like I do my elderberry to keep the general shape and size that I want. I'm sure these guys grows faster than an elderberry, but it sounds like it will respond to that to keep it in check. Now to decide on variety. I want the darkest red possible, as close to the color in the pic as possible. I am going to do some research and I'm sure I'll have more questions after I dig a little! Thanks so much!
It definitely looks like Kerria japonica however mine was always in mostly shade and bloomed just yellow. It was reliably hardy in my then-Zone 5b garden. It grew larger year after year but never seeded around and after 20+ years was still what I would categorize as a well-behaved perennial shrub. It was never bothered by pests in my experience.
If you do not want to go with a Eupatorium, how about a baptisia or an aster? Both can tolerate dryness.
Both are excellent choices. One gives flowering in the late spring/early summer and the other in the late summer.
(Has anyone had first hand experience with the Decadence line-up of the more compact, vigorous Baptisia?)
This post was edited by rouge21 on Tue, Jun 4, 13 at 5:53
I have Baptisia 'Purple Smoke' in an area that gets about 3 hours of sun and it flops so that I have to support it. I don't know if 4.5 hours is enough sun to make it happier.
In my experience E. perfoliatum prefers it fairly damp, growing rampantly on the sunny floodplain of our stream, but not anywhere higher up. Where I have seen it elsewhere in drier spots, the foliage looks tattered. It seeds around into places where it is happy. Like Joe Pye weed, boneset is a favorite of insects when it is bloom.
I tried wintersowing bronze Chantilly snapdragons this past winter... had a little mishap but I have one growing. It was started a little later than should have but never the less.... It still might be early enough but this is my first time with taller snapdragons so I'm not certain. Might want to try the annual forum
I am in a lower zone, so you should check these out locally, but they have all looked great for me all summer:
Dianthus 'Greystone' (trim off bloom stalks after flowering is finished) - sun
Cranberry/Vaccinium macrocarpon - sun to 3/4 shade
Veronica 'Georgia Blue' - sun to 3/4 shade
If you don't mind an aggressive spreader, vinca/periwinkle is a great groundcover, but mine crawls over barriers into the lawn.
Snow in Summer always looked pretty bad for me after flowering, even when I trimmed it back.
I love pink knotweed. It's always covered in little pink buttons and does well in the heat here in Sacramento. I have it in full, hot sun and it stays beautiful all through summer.
It can spread quickly, but with regular trimming it hasn't choked anything out in my beds.
Dee please keep us posted if you are successful. I would really like a baby from my white one.
I have tried everything everyone has told me and from my research. The branches that nicked and pulled to the ground are still there not rooted last year. Maybe it will take a couple of years. This will be year two. I have not checked maybe they did root over the winter.
I have rooted some common rhododendrons. There can be a huge difference between individual varieties how easy they grow roots, from easy ones to nearly impossible. The ordinary R.catawbiense Grandiflorum roots easily. The easiest one is the old Cunninghams White.
The white rhododendron in the picture above looks like R.catawbiense Album.
There is a book(but do not remember the title at the moment) with an extensive list of cultivars divided according to the easiness of rooting.
I have mine in mostly shade growing around my mailbox. They are perfect for shade gardens. I have dark purple, pink, and the wild native ones that are pink with a yellow center. All of mine were from seed trades on here. Along with my fall blooming toad lilies, they are my favorite shade flower. I will be putting some columbine seeds up for trade soon. I have so many seed pods developing this year.
Yeona, some azaleas have a very strong fragrance(especially Soir de Paris and Jolie Madamme), you can smell it from a distance. Some are fragrant if you put your nose into the flowers. Some do not have any detectable fragrance. None of them has an unpleasant smell(unlike tree peonies, which can have horrifying smell)
I have added some new pictures(I HATE the new photobucket, can't find anything)
Some double clones of Ranunculus ficaria
Trillium erectum album
Brunnera Jack Frost and Trillium albidum
A very pale Uvularia grandiflora(very late to emerge and bloom in comparison to the dark yellow ones)
A very intense pink clone of Podophyllum peltatum. Emerges much later than the others.
A lighter pink one
Smilacina racemosa amplexicaulis, from North West USA. Taller than the straight species. Very fragrant, my pet plant.
Double Trillium grandiflorum
Could it be 'Bewitched'?
I planted it 5-6 years and at that time I did not pay attention to the tag. Later on after googling, Fire witch is the closest match I can find. Even though some on line picture shows taller spikes.
Bewitched has different color shade.
If anybody can help ID, that would be great.
Thank you.
Vivian