13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
How much are you watering and what is your soil like? Penstemon in general like very well drained soil and want average moisture to somewhat dry conditions and not a whole lot of nutrient load. If you take a look at the list of varieties that SunnyBorders has had success with, those are varieties that are more tolerant of heavier soils with more nutrients. 'Sweet Joanne' is a x mexicali hybrid, which I've found handle more nutrient load than some other penstemon but still need well drained soil to do really well.
The Plant Geek
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This SJ has gotten very little supplemental watering (with the seasons being warmer and drier each year I like that). But it is true that it is in a bed which is heavily amended ie lots of compost...very rich for the top 6".
It has already made it through its first winter in its present location so I can surmise that drainage is just fine
Here is a way to get some seeds by sending a SASE. She is behind right now (my Sept. 17 request is expected the beginning of November), but free is worth a wait. :)
I haven't experienced the aster yellows- yet, anyways. Although I noticed that some of the local Echinaceas at the nursery loooked a bit odd. Whereas, the recent introductions such as 'Sombrero' looked absolutely perfect condition. Last year, I had 'Kim's Red Knee High' & it was stunning. The roots I ordered last spring, simply would not grow & rotted, while the ones at the nursery looked like they'd br hard pressed to produce a single flower, so I didn't bother, not at nearly $20, anyways!
Since I've moved, I'm replacing 'Hot Papaya' as I think it's absolutely great. KRKH is mail ordered too.
I'm not all that impressed with Powow colors as they aren't as brilliant as photos I've seen in -any- catalogs. & as for white, if you want the added factor of sweet scent, go for 'Fragrant Angel', otherwise, one white isn't much different than any other..
But, alot of work & effort goes into selecting a newer Echinacea hybrid, (mainly for the flower?) & maybe they aren't suitable to growing in the considerably wide & varying conditions all across the entire U.S.A
Aster yellows is very widespread, affects a huge number of plants (really- if you look at the list you kind of want to give up gardening), and there is really no such thing as cultivars that are more or less resistant. It is spread by leafhoppers, which there was a huge population of this year. I would guess 80% of all coneflowers I've come into contact with this year were infected. Not a good situation.
As far as new varieties, they NEED very well drained soils to perform well and overwinter. (This is inherited from the E. paradoxa parent- it likes rocky alpine conditions) Also keep in mind that E. purpurea (one of the parents of most of these hybrids) is not a very long lived plant and that has been passed on to these varieties. 3-5 years is a common lifespan for E. purpurea and it's hybrids.
Hybridizing work continues, and improvements in lifespan are being made through use of other species. I highly recommend E. 'Firebird' as it has E. pallida (a long lived species) in its bloodline. This one has performed very well for me, even in slightly heavier soils. E. 'Phoenix' and E. 'Flamethrower' have performed well also. I'm looking forward to E. 'Sunbird' as it also has E. pallida in the bloodline. The sombrero series is performing well in botanic gardens, I haven't grown them personally but having seen them I can recommend them. Pow Wow are ok, they perform well & I see some color improvement in the strain over what I was seeing in trial gardens, but I'll take Pixie Meadowbrite over it any day.
The Plant Geek
www.confessionsofaplantgeek.com
www.botanophilia.com
You will find that the garden plants you really need to worry about are aggressive ones that spread via rhizome, not stolon. Rhizomes are (often deep) underground rootstocks. Plants like Liriope spicata and Gooseneck Loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides) send out vigorous rootstocks deep underground that can be hard to eliminate.
Well, being that I'm in zone 8, I'm still sowing seeds! Does 're-potting' count? In that case, because the usually rather dry September & October has turned into heavy downpours.... I potted up the newer 'Hidcote' Lavender, in lean well drained pot. Hoping it is as intense violet as one I had in the past which drowned/rotted in the typical ground up pine bark, that most perennials seem to be sold in, these days.
I'm figuring out, that must be what kills off my Oriental Poppiy cultivars & by the time they ship them, it seems late & they don't like being transplanred bareroot, nor peat mix when potted & don't like disturbance after leafing out. So that's always a problem. Besides, I'm just finishing uo, with mail ordering!
I'm almost ready to plant some Scabiosa caucasica 'Fama Deep Blue' sown about a month ago & some 'bearded' Dianthus thay has some extra long fringed petals, even more so than 'Spooky'. Seems fortunate that I got some free seeds, from a nearby local planting, as I can't locate a source- just a few photos on the 'net!
I bought some 'Coral Reef' Oriental Poppies from High Country Gardens & hope they are as pink as shown in the catalog. Bluestone, has gone to single coco peat & no longer offers three packs AFAIK & besides, when it did finally bloom, it was half pale orange & they explained it away, as "that's why they call it coral"- huh? I said pink coral is just that- pink! But they replaced it with an Eryngium, that didn't seem to be the 'Sapphire Blue' that others seemed to grow...
But maybe the Eryngium alpinum roots I ordered will be more satisfactory, next year. Thompson & Morgan , since being overtaken & bought out, still doesn't have seeds in stock, of the one I really want; 'Blue Lace'.
Meanwhile, Van Bourgondiens moved out of State & sold off & at least I don't have to pay sales tax anymore, but maybe I'll wait until next month for something from there.
I'd have planted some New Zealand hybrid Delphiniums by now, but the price per plant, really gets to me & I sowed seeds from Jung anyway. Maybe spring is better for ordering & planting potted ones...
I do have Fiona Coghill Daisy on the way, so that will go in the ground upon arrival, as will Hot Papaya' coneflower & a newer(?) phlox 'Tiara' that's a double white. 'Blue Paradise' & 'Nicky/Dusterlohe' would have been bought but I need to move them from the previous residence & are fabulous in flower.
I don't know if Dicentra ' Burning Heart'(?) made it through the summer, but I'll have to see about that, later.
I'm going to plant Peony 'Duchess de Nemours, as soon as it arives. I've a tree type(suffruticosa) 'Hanakisoi, that definitely needs planting. I'm surprised it stayed in leaf, this long.
Well, I've still got Colorado Columbines I need to sow, for transplanting when it gets cold, cold. The McKanas just came up & aren't ready yet.
Snapdragons are perennial here & I go for the All American Selection tall ones ( forgot the cv. name, but Park seed has them... & try sowing some Tetra mix tomorrow, which are tall also.
Just got around to sowing the, Forget-me-nots in with Angelique Tulips (#1 Planted!),'Excelsior' or 'Shirley' Foxgloves & 'Cup & Saucer' Canterbury Bells, even if they aren't really perennials.
Not sure what to mix with 'Blue Parrot' Tulips (#2 planted!), as they're actually more deep lilac. Any suggestions? Maybe I should have interplanted using the Papaver alpinum, from Ed Hume seeds...
I have no idea what to coordinate with the Sweet Sultan, (Bavicchi seeds, from Italian Tool website.) Maybe the Lavandula 'Hidcote Superior', though if I'd bought yellow Centaurea moschata 'Dairy Maid' instead. Darn it...
Well, the Moon flower (Ipomea) just grew roots through the bottom of the pot & don't want to disturb it, just to plant it. Do the roots get stored? I dunno, do they just get planted dormant & sorta comeback, like Jalapa 'Four O'clocks',maybe?
If I could locate some Anchusa 'Loddon Royalist' I'd plant that, as regular azurea species gets so tall. Most people are planting Pansies around here & so I'm behind, as I sowed 'Chalon Supreme' & some 'Pettycoat'. I could have covered the dormant Anchusa, with these.
I guess I could plant (finally, here it is, #3!) 'Nelly Moser' Clematis I got on sale for 3 or $4 from Lowe's, tomorrow, but I've also got to put in an old 'Harry Lauders' Wlaking stick or Corylus contorta, that someone discarded, simply because it had suckered after some years. Why not save about $40. on a free one. Could you resist it? lol
Happy growing to all.
I'm in love with cleome, gaura, Walker's Low catmint/nip, blue-eyed grass, pansies, artemesia silver mound (but looking pitiful with all the recent rain), cupid's dart, obedient plant, scarlet creeper ... on and on it goes! Some of these may not be readily available as seed.
With no clue as to your location, I am going to guess you will be growing in a greenhouse where you will have any temperature required. Space is always a problem with any large scale production and I would grow in flats, each species in its own flat. I would pick them out into sixpacs and then when well rooted into your six inch pots. Al
I'd like to grow perennials in grow boxes next year. If the soil and moisture is ideal how close can I space the seedlings if I remove them early the following summer? Most of the perennials that I'm planning on growing will be six to twelve inches tall after one year of growth. Can I crowd them and plant at 8" apart knowing that they are coming out within one year? What recommendations do you have for easy to grow, popular perennials? Gary
I'd like to grow perennials in grow boxes next year. If the soil and moisture is ideal how close can I space the seedlings if I remove them early the following summer? Most of the perennials that I'm planning on growing will be six to twelve inches tall after one year of growth. Can I crowd them and plant at 8" apart knowing that they are coming out within one year? What recommendations do you have for easy to grow, popular perennials? Gary
The gaillardia cultivars I have are: Gallo Red, Arizona Sun, Mesa Yellow & Lemons & Oranges - the later is still in full bloom, as gorgeous as it has been all summer long. The others are looking tired... I will be trying to preserve the parent plant as long as I can, but I am sprinkling seeds around fromn the plant also. Hopefully, I will have plants coming up in the spring! Thanks again for all the good info.
Personally, if I had them, I would do as you mentioned and use in them a rock garden of sorts. Dump them out, throw some soil on them and water it in to fill cracks and crevices, repeat as needed. I think it would be lovely in a sunny corner planted with a patchwork of tiny groundcover sedums.
I feel ya, Jayco. I read "moist, fertile, well drained soil" and, whether full/part sun/shade, I laugh... and cry... at the same time. Whenever I stick a shovel in the ground here its hit or miss... will I be able to dig a deep hole as far as my arms will allow me? Or will I be stopped 6 inches down by what looks like clay but feels like cement. I have to admit... I ignore a lot of what soil types it says to plant things in. Otherwise... I'd have nothing in 75% of my yard...
I would pick a couple favorites to take with you and leave the rest behind. Doing more than that is just creating headaches for yourself. There is nothing more exciting than starting a perennial garden anew -- and you will get blooms the first year. The only way I would attempt a large scale transplant is if you are facing budget constraints.
Certainly did a large scale transplant of perennials myself, when moved. Had to rent a small truck to do it. Did leave the (spring) bulbs. But all the potting up, moving and replanting was done within one growing season.
On the other hand, at least here, it seems pretty easy to keep potted up perennials over winter. I do it yearly with dozens of perennials. Most are potted up by fall, using garden soil, labelled, watered on an ongoing basis, cut back before winter and kept in a place where the pots stay frozen until spring. Perhaps the success depends (as suggested above) on the fact that keeping things frozen, all winter, is easy here.
Depends on what you're starting out with. If you have a small plant, it will take a few years to establish. After that, they'll grow at a decent clip. Mine are old plants and I chop off divisions every 2-3 years without affecting the look or blooming of the mother plant.
Kevin
I also have subsessilis. Love it, as do the hummingbirds and bees. Goldfinches swarm over it for the seeds. It reblooms sporadically if deadheaded. It is tall, about 4 ft. Sturdy, does not flop.
Here is a pic for you taken this summer. It has been with me for 5 years. 3 plants in this spot.
N.sibirica has a running habit. N.clarkei lacks vigour. N. subsessilis is a clumper,has to be watched carefully for selfseeding, the foliage smells unpleasantly for my nose. It is robust for me. Ornamental value is average to below average , the flowers should be bluer in my opinion, and there should be more of them.
It was raining earlier today and things just seemed to 'glow'. Sumac is losing leaves helped by wind and rain. We had 5" last Sat/Sun. More than we had all total during summer. Great for going into winter. To left of sumac is ballon flower whose leaves turn redish gold. The Autumn Joy sedum has turned bronze and flopped. In front of that is a sedge and right front is Japanese blood grass.
Excuse me for second post but haven't figured out how to post multiple pictures. This is birchleaf spirea. It is green all spring and summer with white flowers in spring. But fall it when it put on its show turning shades of gold, red and purple. Picture looks a little washed out.