13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I appreciate your post, rouge21, because I just planted a "Low and Behold" BB at our zone 6a cabin, and I had no idea about the hardiness issue. I did plant it with good drainage, and now I know to really mulch it heavily at Thanksgiving(and pray of course). Couldn't I just dump a bag of shredded pine bark on it(and pray)? The oak leaves blow around a lot on the mountain top where I am trying to create a beautiful, but deer resistant landscape.
I have a few Lo and Beholds coming into bloom now-they started showing the buds at least a week ago if not longer. My first one is JUST staring to show purple instead of green. A few others are starting to show the blooms too, but until they bloom I can't recall which ones are which. One I'm pretty sure is Bicolor and the other is black knight.
We're considered 6b here, but we're RIGHT on the lake, as in, it's my backyard, so our seasons run later (my shasta daisies are JUST now starting to bloom). I didn't have die-back on any BBs this past winter (their first winter here), and I didn't mulch them either. 14 various BB's (ruby red, black knight, bicolor and lo and behold) all made it through fine. I have one more that was a freebie (I just had to dig it up) that I don't know what it is-it was pretty rough around the edges when I got it and it never did bloom last year.
I also have about 90 others that were all bought this spring as rooted cuttings, some are more robust now than others, but all that made it (I bought 100) are handling whatever the weather does fine.
I have always grown purple oxalis in the full, blazing sun...in the South! It stays compact, in full flower, and without problems of any kind. A heavy frost will zap it into a winter's sleep where single digit temps are fairly common.
Inside, I don't know how you 'd provide enough light to keep it from becoming leggy and spider mite -y.
If the edges are burnt I would suspect a cultural problem...too much water, poor drainage, excess fertilization, etc. Sunburn would not appear just on the edges.
your ground freezes in z7??? .. wow .. never thunk it so ..????
the key here is.. they are EXTRA.. just do it ... what downside is there??? throw them away ...
let us know.. next spring.. how it works out..
presumably.. the two you keep indoors.. will have more babes to try outdoors next year ...
now.. why are you keeping two potted INDOORS for summer??? ... they should go outside.. in their pot.. in full shade.. for the summer ... until the last minute before frost or freeze comes..
you will be surprised how good it will look.. come xmas ... and the doldrums of winter ... as long as you dont forget to water it out there ...
ken
Tiki Torch is a hybrid of E. purpurea and E. paradoxa - since E. paradoxa is more drought tolerant, growing in a drier native habitat, I would also add extra perlite, or use more of a cactus mix or gritty mix in the pot. The Container Gardening forum has lots of threads on Tapla's (aka Al) gritty mix. He also explains concepts like the "perched water table" that exists in pots.
I live in southwest Ks and have delph Bellamosa in my yard that is over 20 years old. It seeds down, and if I can save them from the rabbits, I scatter them all about several gardens on this block. Back in the 30's and 40's, my Dad grew them for a greenhouse, for funeral displays. He was Swiss and could grow anything as I remember so well, even tho I wasen't that old then. I miss him so much, especially when I have a gardening question.
Updating on my newly created (still in progress) I fondly named *Shenandoah Country* sunny bed. I have just added a couple more pix to the album I posted above.
I'm so much more pleased now w/ my choices of Shenandoah Swichgrass & Oso Easy (Mango Salsa) roses for the outer periphery of the bed. I have decided in mid-Mar to plant 3 Hydrangeas I've successfully grown in pots (1rooted from a Kyushu branch & 2 seedling-volunteers of Tardiva). They will eventually work well as screens along the fence! I'm adding 3 *Yellow Submarine* roses behind Shenandoahs (at safe distance) around the dead stump. I'm sure it'll be crowded there oneday (sigh) but will be pretty for a few years!!!
Wonder if you might check out the added pix in the orig link I posted above ~ appreciate your thoughts!!! TIA
I'm almost 100% certain #3 is Horseweed (Conyza canadensis). It's one of those weeds that changes shape and form as it ages. In other words it starts out looking very different than it ultimately will look like when it blooms.
I was just Googling images for this one and found tons of 'em at all stages of development. I have it my garden. It's easy to pull, but it seems to be around every year no matter what I do.
Kevin
I bought 'Vivid' from Bluestone Perennials about 4 years ago. Even though it was in a dry spot, it went crazy after 2 years. I put it in pots, and just this spring finally got it back in the ground in back in a kind of "wild" bed where it can spread to its heart's content.
I also started Physostegia 'Crystal Peak' from seed last Spring, and that does not seem aggressive at all. If anything, it's the opposite - only about half the plants have survived, and they're still fairly small for a 2nd year perennial.
Seed-grown plants that are loved by pollinators can "change colors" because the bees and butterflies cross-pollinate and literally breed new strains.
Also, hybrids that self-sow can revert to a parent. I have orange echinacea 'Sundown' and the original plants are always true to the orange, but all of the seedlings are the standard native color of deep pink blooms with orange cones. I keep them anyway.
On my Knock-Out Roses 'Radrazz', blooms on the new growth in spring are always darker red-pink than the reblooms on the current year's growth. If I cut back the stems during the season, then that new growth produces the darker color, too.
My best guess (I'm not a rosarian) for the white edges appearing on the roses is to try pruning a few stems, keep the roses watered well and see if the new blooms are okay. Could they have experienced a weather stress?
Cameron
So the Latin name is: Tanacetum coccineum, but they have also been known as Chrysanthemum coccineum, Pyrethrum coccineum and Pyrethrum roseum. They have been named a few times. I'll let my mum know about the dieback/self sowing/cross pollination options. I guess we'll have to see what happens. I know some of mine didn't come back, but the colours are all off the same plant (or look like it anyways).
As for the roses, that does make sense. The weather was VERY strange for the March-May timeframe. Hot then cold, then hot, then normal, then cold and right now we're having August weather. It was also the driest spring on record for us - we got less than 30% the average between February to end of May.