13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
There is a specific herbicide to kill grasses, called Ortho Grass-Be-Gon. It is safe to overspray on MOST perennials (generally NOT safe on anything succulent or with gray foliage -- there is a list on the bottle of plants to avoid). It works great.
There really isn't an herbicide to spray on broadleaved weeds over regular perennials. You probably could overspray patches of ornamental grasses that are infested with broadleaved weeds with a regular lawn type weedkiller -- probably? Maybe? I don't know, I haven't tried it, but I think it's likely that, if it doesn't harm turf grass, it probably wouldn't harm ornamental grasses. If anyone knows otherwise, please correct me.
Now, if you can CAREFULLY spray or otherwise apply the herbicide to the weeds without contacting the desired plants, that works. Perhaps something like this product would help you?
Here is a link that might be useful: Weedball Herbicide Applicator
I wish! Perhaps I could try to take a picture of one bed in particular. (I have 20 perennial beds). It is a bed of karmina geraniums with grass growing throughout the bed, not just on the edges but within all the geraniums even though they are densely packed. I don't know how it would be possible to spray the grass without affecting the flowers.
Interesting stuff about these excellently pretty flowers, thanks wies. I haven't seen any since moving to AL but am sure I would be lured by their beauty into giving it a shot if I see plant or seed. Not a mail orderer.
delphelf86, (cute name, btw) I have a shelf of various gardening books which I rarely consult except to browse the pretty pics, or to find a quote I want to share. The one that I've gotten the most use of is Botanica's Annuals & Perennials: Over 1,000 pages and over 2,000 plants listed (no author listed) by Laurel Glen publishing. At the time I bought it (1999 I think,) the internet resources were far less numerous and comprehensive than they are now. Since they've also started renaming plants due to genetic research, unfortunately reference books are becoming obsolete.
People refer to The Well-Tended Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato Aust as "the bible." Written in a cooler zone but the general bulk of the info is pertinent, a comprehensive overview for beginners. One just needs to adjust the timing to suit the habits of the plants in a different location. I've not found myself with the need or desire to consult this book much after reading it through. Your library should have one and it should be easy to find one if you want to own it. The collection of pictures is excellently informative.
Comprehensive, narrowly-focused books seem to stand the test of time in conjunction with the WWW. I have one about variegate plants that I open often. And one about 'everlasting' flowers.
I used to subscribe to several gardening magazines (and collect others from stores) and didn't think they were worthy of moving at one point. Now I really miss them and realize it doesn't matter how old they are, the pictures are always pretty, inspiring, and most articles are timelessly relevant. They are an awesome resource if you don't throw them away! An easy way to collect pics & info in small monetary increments.
delphelf, if you are looking for a good book, there are always tons of gardening books at the library. A couple of years ago, they started a list of recommended books on the New England Gardening forum, maybe you would see something there that sounds interesting....here's the link....
Here is a link that might be useful: Recommended Gardening Books
I've also had problems with floppy Yarrow until I moved it into a spot in the garden that had leaner/sandier/dryer soil and most importantly, more sun. Problems solved. The spreading issues decreased, too. Also, since I have such limited space I find that a Yarrow like Moonshine that doesn't spread and is a great clumper works best for me. I'm going to experiment this year with Schwellenburg which is also supposed to be a good yellow non-spreading form.
lacyvail is the first person to mention different types of Yarrow. Are we talking Achillea millefolium or A filipendulina? Paprika is a millefolium. Gold Plate is filipendulina. They have very different habits. FWIW I've not noticed either flopping here. A few pea will sticks sort that out any way.
wieslaw59 - I am sure you don't really mean 'garbage bin.' Surely it's the compost heap they go to in green Denmark.
Rotting roots are obvious on most of the plants. Just dig one up and see what is going on. If the roots are more or less fine, replant it another place(roots need air to thrive. If you fill all available space with water, they will suffocate). You can also shorten the shoots a little to see if it helps for the habit.
Well, if you remove the flower heads before the seeds mature, it cuts down on self-sowing. At least that works with my Donkey Spurge.
One thing I learned from personal experience -- be EXTREMELY careful not to get the milky sap in your mouth, nose, and especially eyes. It burns badly -- bad enough that you would probably end up in the emergency room to get some relief. I didn't actually end up going to the ER, just rinsing my eye out for a long, long time and using OTC products, but believe me, had I had better insurance that would have paid for it, I would have.
I just cut my polychroma back by half this morning. I don't make an effort to cut it back before it goes to seed. Self sowing has not been an issue with the several clumps of it I have. In fact I love the spring show it gives and would welcome a little self sowing.
Cutting back keeps it from flopping later and makes it a nice soft attractive clump of bluish green in the summer garden.
Yes it is unusual when the soil is too rich or moist to grow something well! It sounds like their native habitat is lean and sandy.
I do have Lupines growing reasonably well in the xeric garden, but there are only 3 little Lupinus perennis seedlings and I don't want them to get lost out there amongst the big perennials.
A friend was over the other day and she saw my lupines blooming - volunteers from a planted seedling 5 years ago. She mentioned that hers are from a wildflower seed mix that she planted some time ago. She has very lean, fast draining soil. Her dirt looks like it fine, shale rock in it. And these wild lupines do well for her.
Linda
I think it can depend on the cultivar for these. My regular ones emerged early this year with the warm spring we were having, whereas the 'Regal Red' I added last year were much slower to emerge. You're also in a cooler region, so that may also explain some of the difference.
Thanks again to all for the great suggestions! The winner for my garden was the shasta daisy. They work perfectly.
On a different note, I didn't realize that writing in caps was considered "yelling". This was not my intention. I work in caps on my computer at work, so it's just a habit. Hope no one was offended.
Once again, thanks for all of the help!!!
Bill
I don't have advice, but just wanted to say I feel for you. My three year old daughter is autistic and deadheads ALL of my flowers for me. It's usually roses she goes after, because she likes the way the petals fall to the ground. Oh well. :) Everytime she grabs hold of a flower, I just tell the plant "better luck next time." lol
Thank you everyone for your responses.
she didn't get to the corm. I imaging there is 3-5" of stem above the corm still intact. I'm glad to hear there is still hope :)
These particular glads had directions to plant at 8" deep into the ground. My other package required only six. I know some planting directions are generic but since I have little experience I found it safe to follow directions.
Yes autism is difficult & challenging at times but she thought she was helping in this case. once she pulled the fourth one up, corm & all she realized she made a mistake & left the others alone. I only wish she had just come to me instead of having to unravel the mystery myself.
Sounds like everything will work out, thanks again!
How about daylilies? You may not get maximum amount of blooms, but you will get some.
I have 'The Fairy' groundcover roses that only get morning sun. They are in shade by 1:00 or 2:00 and they bloom wonderfully.
Another idea campanula 'Blue Waterfall'. I think it will not mind some shade.
Otherwise, I think your best bet is to focus on foliage. Jacobs Ladder 'Stairway to Heaven' or 'Touch of Class' are traditional shade plants, but I think they should do okay in some sun if the soil is rich and some irrigation takes place. Great foliage. Ditto Heuchera
Agreed on the Heuchera, and liriope is good if you want to do a border of some kind.
Hostas depend, I think on what kind of Hosta you end up with..some are really sensitive to any kind of sun, while others seem immune to sunburn!
Desmouseaux