13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Rooting of this plant is easier when a stem juncture is used.
It is not illiegal to root for your own use or for gifts. It is only against the law to sell without purchasing a legal name tag to compensate the breeder for the years of work that went into development of these for the marketplace. We're talking pennies here, so don't fret!
on a large .... mature tree .. digging a few holes is irrelevant ... to the tree .. as most trees are TWICE TO THREE times as large underground as above ...
but the problem is.. it is a desert under there.. with sub-prime soil ... and your tiny little plant.. is NOT going to out-compete a large tree for water ... and if you water just the plants [and/or amend the soil].. take a WAG where the tree will grow new roots ....
AND NEVER TILL UNDER A LARGE TREE ... thats where the real damage will be ...
i would suggest pots.. and some lawn chairs for under such ..
ken
The trees are young about five years old. The perennials would be planted about a foot away from the trees. I would use them as a filler for a few years. I was wondering if digging the perennials up in a few years would be a problem for the trees? What are your thoughts on this? Thanks
Excellent news! I don't mind a self sower. Sometimes your happy with more seedlings and it is convenient. Like little dividends. Anything that is easy to pull out and doesn't keep coming back on you, no matter how many times you pull it, is okay in my book. Thanks...
I got smoked by a freeze on Tues night...my therms. said 21 and 23. The recorded low was 28 but with a 7' Katsura already showing black leaves its not good.
Even those weedy native Populars are all wilted.
April lows to date...
32
32
28
28
32
23
I've been growing Asiatic lilies in containers for the last three years or so.
I simply move the containers in the garage during the winter months and by March pot is filled with new sprouts.
For me, It's also a way from keeping the rabbits from decimating the plants, which they do if planted in ground.
I winter sowed probably 50 containers of hollyhocks that are ready to plant out - about half black and half Antwerp. They'll go along my chain link fence. I planted a few two years ago and they have held up well against the fierce New Mexico winds, even with no support. I'm looking forward to seeing them all in bloom - but will have to wait until next year.
I'm south zone five - actually with that new update to the zone chart, I'm moved to zone 6. Temps have been in the 60s-70s dropping to the forties overnight... though we are having a couple cold snaps last night & tonight, and i'm covering everything.
I probably am worrying too much though. Still it stinks, because I think this one is going to lose the main stalk from the wilting.
It sounds dry, could be a smaller root system than the others that caused the plant to experience transplant shock, or a tighter rootball (pot bound) where water isn't penetrating to the roots even though the ground around it may feel damp....Did they all get the same treatment when planting? Open up the rootball, watered in, not planted too deeply?
It's not wilting from too much shade.
We got them in this spring at the nursery where I work. They came in a bag of 30--bare root--before I put them in pots for sale. Nice, big, fat bare roots so they were ready and eager to grow once they got soil and some water. In a week they were up and growing.
I wouldn't worry about bare root plants, that's the way they come before you buy them in nursery pots, and the way I prefer to plant in my garden, so they can wake up in their own beds.
Sandy
never heard of it ... and its counter intuitive ...
every leaf has cells .. cells hold water .. when the temp falls.. the cell walls burst as the water freezes and expands ... and then when it warms .. the plant either collapses [total cell wall integrity loss] .. or if very light ... the tissue around the cell drys and browns ...
if all that is true ... how in the world would dumping water on it .. help??? .. either the damage was done .. or it wasnt ...
i would love to see some links about this ...
ken
I think you would need to keep the plant wet, being spritzed all night, like they do in orange orchards.
My Mom swears that if plants thaw before the sun hits them, that can make the difference. From my sporadic and quite UNscientific observations, I think she's probably right. I think a sheet over your plants would do more for them than a dousing (and is what Mom would recommend).
Summerstar, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here, but I just wanted to thank you for asking the same question I had and thanks to everyone for the great/helpful information! I'm going to order both Karley Rose and Piglet. Can't wait to see them grow!
Happy gardening everyone!!
I was hoping someone would have answered this, because I am also curious. I just planted three Phlox stolonifera 'Weesie Smith' from Plant Delights. It looks like a very rambunctious grower, even in a pot, and it had some open blooms that were very pretty. The growth seems quite tender with thinner leaves as opposed to the sturdier and more "waxy" foliage of my Phlox divaricata, which was planted last fall and is blooming now. This makes me think that P. stolonifera will want more moisture and not be as drought tolerant as P. divaricata.
Hopefully others with long term experience with these two species will chime in?
Ispahan - I'm glad you posted because after reading Plant Delights description of Weesie Smith, I've changed my mind about where to plant mine even though it's a different cultivar. Plant Delights says their 3 year old clump of Weesie Smith has spread to 8 feet. That's kinda scary.
These vines can tolerate some pretty severe pruning and still thrive.....maybe why they are considered invasive in some parts of the country At this time of year, I'd wait until after flowering; otherwise, winter is an ideal time for hard pruning.
I cut mine down to a stub about 3-4 inches tall every 4/5 years. It regenerates to the top of the porch railings/support columns within about 8-10 weeks after this treatment. Keeps it vigorous and attractive by getting rid of all of the old, dead wood.
Trust me, you can't really kill these things even when you want to. Drastic pruning will NOT hurt it.