13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I've been growing Asiatic lilies in containers for the last three years or so.
I simply move the containers in the garage during the winter months and by March pot is filled with new sprouts.
For me, It's also a way from keeping the rabbits from decimating the plants, which they do if planted in ground.
I winter sowed probably 50 containers of hollyhocks that are ready to plant out - about half black and half Antwerp. They'll go along my chain link fence. I planted a few two years ago and they have held up well against the fierce New Mexico winds, even with no support. I'm looking forward to seeing them all in bloom - but will have to wait until next year.
I'm south zone five - actually with that new update to the zone chart, I'm moved to zone 6. Temps have been in the 60s-70s dropping to the forties overnight... though we are having a couple cold snaps last night & tonight, and i'm covering everything.
I probably am worrying too much though. Still it stinks, because I think this one is going to lose the main stalk from the wilting.
It sounds dry, could be a smaller root system than the others that caused the plant to experience transplant shock, or a tighter rootball (pot bound) where water isn't penetrating to the roots even though the ground around it may feel damp....Did they all get the same treatment when planting? Open up the rootball, watered in, not planted too deeply?
It's not wilting from too much shade.
We got them in this spring at the nursery where I work. They came in a bag of 30--bare root--before I put them in pots for sale. Nice, big, fat bare roots so they were ready and eager to grow once they got soil and some water. In a week they were up and growing.
I wouldn't worry about bare root plants, that's the way they come before you buy them in nursery pots, and the way I prefer to plant in my garden, so they can wake up in their own beds.
Sandy
never heard of it ... and its counter intuitive ...
every leaf has cells .. cells hold water .. when the temp falls.. the cell walls burst as the water freezes and expands ... and then when it warms .. the plant either collapses [total cell wall integrity loss] .. or if very light ... the tissue around the cell drys and browns ...
if all that is true ... how in the world would dumping water on it .. help??? .. either the damage was done .. or it wasnt ...
i would love to see some links about this ...
ken
I think you would need to keep the plant wet, being spritzed all night, like they do in orange orchards.
My Mom swears that if plants thaw before the sun hits them, that can make the difference. From my sporadic and quite UNscientific observations, I think she's probably right. I think a sheet over your plants would do more for them than a dousing (and is what Mom would recommend).
Summerstar, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here, but I just wanted to thank you for asking the same question I had and thanks to everyone for the great/helpful information! I'm going to order both Karley Rose and Piglet. Can't wait to see them grow!
Happy gardening everyone!!
I was hoping someone would have answered this, because I am also curious. I just planted three Phlox stolonifera 'Weesie Smith' from Plant Delights. It looks like a very rambunctious grower, even in a pot, and it had some open blooms that were very pretty. The growth seems quite tender with thinner leaves as opposed to the sturdier and more "waxy" foliage of my Phlox divaricata, which was planted last fall and is blooming now. This makes me think that P. stolonifera will want more moisture and not be as drought tolerant as P. divaricata.
Hopefully others with long term experience with these two species will chime in?
Ispahan - I'm glad you posted because after reading Plant Delights description of Weesie Smith, I've changed my mind about where to plant mine even though it's a different cultivar. Plant Delights says their 3 year old clump of Weesie Smith has spread to 8 feet. That's kinda scary.
as far as i am concerned.. all plants do it ... well.. it actually has nothing to do with the plant ... its the sky
but i didnt realize this.. until i became a stay at home dad.. and was not limited to looking at everything after dinner ...
the prime time for said change.. is the 30 mins or so.. just before dusk .. when the sky tends to turn pink ... which on the color wheel is opposite blue.. making the blue plants seem to vibrate in their blueness ...
the observation was all verified.. when i got a digital camera.. and was simply stunned with the diversity of color of the same plant ... in pix taken during different hours .... [which is another way of saying cameras dont squint nor wear sunglasses ]
its amazing.. what the camera can capture.. as compared to the eye ...
ken
I totally agree, excellent descriptions Ken. I think white is its' own entity though, which is almost too bright to look at in direct sun but white flowers glow in the shadows and in the dark most nights. If you're the type to visit your flowers at night, adding some white ones can really be worthwhile.
Then there are Hydrangeas which offer a lot in the area of color play. Some people manage to get one side to have different color blooms than the other. I have one that has mostly blue flowers with an occasional pink and purple one. They all start out white. As the flowers age, the color gets deeper until they all turn purple. So within the course of a single day, using different angles of sun, you can see a dozen different flower colors.
Pippi, Monarda is easy to transplant - very shallow rooted and not difficults roots. You can dig up chunks kind of like sod.
I have never grown it contained like you describe. If you want to slow it down, you could try planting it in a drier spot with partial sun. It will go crazy with rich moist soil, though, even in partial sun.
I just moved an entire patch of Monarda bradburiana yesterday, started it from seed 4 years ago. It is an earlier blooming Monarda with glossy-ish foliage that doesn't get any mildew. It was getting very little sun in the old spot, but doing okay despite that, so I hope to get better growth and blooms.
Casa blanca grows up to 4 feet, but the stem and bulb is rather massive compare to the other lily bulb. For example, I planted two different bulbs in the pot. The yellow bulb is size of a golf ball, the Casa Blanca is size of an onion. The stem is pretty thick, too.
I am thinking that it dosn't need stalking in the sun, but may get floppy in shady areas.
Paul
It's actually the only oriental I still grow, most of them are very short lived here and I simply don't bother with them. I've found other types that give me more bang for my buck. They may get taller in other areas but for me Casa Blanca gets to about 4 ft. and no I don't stake it and I get a lot of wind. maybe the wind strengthens the stem enough to not require staking.
I planted these as bulbs in the fall a couple years ago. Mine are all in the grass under shade trees scattered here and there. It's typical silty loam soil that can get pretty damp in the spring because we are low lying, but dries out over the summer. They seem to like it there.
Bummer! Best of luck, sending warm thoughts & hope everything's okay in the a.m. Our forecast is calling for nighttime temps in the 40's the next several nights...am counting on them being right.
I got smoked by a freeze on Tues night...my therms. said 21 and 23. The recorded low was 28 but with a 7' Katsura already showing black leaves its not good.
Even those weedy native Populars are all wilted.
April lows to date...
32
32
28
28
32
23