13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
You would be surprised at how loosely the nursery business handles pot sizes. Or at least they used to. I believe a few years back there was a legal move to make us use better descriptions than things like quart or gallon as sizes. If you found this on a website, you email that site and ask them to define to you what they mean by a 5P pot. I've been in the business nearly a quarter of a century and I've ordered gazillions of pots and never heard of one.
I think you found the right answer - it's about 2.5 quarts. I'm very familiar with that nursery - I've known John for about 15 years, and if you're ever in the CT area, try to stop by his place - it's amazing. His backyard (for lack of a better term, it just keeps going and going) has something like 800 different hostas in the ground, and just a ton potted for sale.
The plants he sells are all in 5 pint or 1 gallon pots (a few even bigger), but it makes sense that for mail order, he'd only be shipping ones in 5 pint. I highly recommend his plants - I don't think I've ever had one die on me - they're all nicely grown with good root systems. (and no, no affiliation other than a very happy customer.)
Don't they splice in genes from plants that have natural immunity/resistance when they hybridize? Not sure how/where they get the "stamp", or if there even is such a thing, but new varieties of annuals and veggies have trial gardens, so is the designation of "resistant" a comparitive and not a definitive issue - ?. I'm guessing it is, since I've never seen a plant/seed variety designated as "immune".
Just realized that the Jelitto link I posted above is not the pic of 'Polstar'; just the home page of Jelitto. You can get the 'Polstar' seeds from Jelitto by navigating from their product to perennial to Alcea. It is quite pricy; 6.4 euro a package.
This place (http://www.swallowtailgardenseeds.com/perennials/hollyhocks.html) in the US carries some Jelitto seed including some Spotlight Series at much more reasonable prices; unfortunately no 'Polstar'.
Be ready to bring them in during a freeze.
Or set up some chairs around them then throw an elect blanket over them to keep them from freezing.
I've done this in the past on my covered porch and in my garage.
I'd put the plants to bed every night by tucking them in under an elect blanket just before I'd go to bed myself.
It kept them from freezing.
I plan to add more hostas, I have a new bed in the woods garden where I ripped out honeysuckle. And some other shade garden plants. This year I'll be looking for older hosta varieties (read inexpensive) as this part of the woods could be a deer salad bar and I'm not wanting to risk "designer" hostas down there! Besides, we are still in a La Nina drought year in my zone.
Besides that, I'm currently fascinated by succulents, and I'll be hunting down interesting hardy ones that I don't have, and adding to my rock garden. And probably a few aeoniums to keep in pots. I really love those.
I really don't need any more perennials. What I need to do is divide and spread around!
Little Bluestem grass, a carex and annual Ruby grass(melinus "Savannah") are the only other things on my want list. Besides a couple more Japanese maples. And another arrowwood viburnum, and and and.......
Oh crap my list keeps getting longer, lol!
Sandy
mnwsgal - my 'Black Knight' is from Bluestone and their website says it's only hardy to Z5. I prune mine back in spring and it's now on year 4. All my others (5 total) I grew from traded seed via winter sowing and they're all going on year 3. They're gorgeous and very healthy. All get pruned in spring along with caryopteris & perovskia.
I have the standard and a yellow form(which is being outgrown by the standard). I am hoping to try one of the newer varieties this spring in a different area.
The seed pods do look nice, but I found that they weigh the limbs down as they are forming and the whole plant can flop open. They also self seed quite easily for me.
So as soon as mine is done flowering, I cut all the pods out. This keeps it nice and tidy and upright all year. I would also think you could just cut the plant back if it gets to large or unruly.
Hi Kevin, sorry about the link...I am not sure what went wrong. This is a relatively new product (I think only available in wide distribution last summer). But it is now found in many retail locations (especially in Canada). Many of us have first seen it on the popular Canadian entrepreneurial TV show "DRAGON'S DEN" where it got seed money from the millionaire hosts.
It does feel and look like my bag of volcanic rock dust and the ingredients also support this ID.
I am convinced it has none of the many disadvantages of salt but I will see first hand this winter if it does an acceptable job of providing ongoing traction on my walkway and driveway.
Since I have a flat lot, with a small driveway and front walkway, I guess I don't usually feel much concern except when there is a bad ice storm. I leave a container of sand in the front entryway for the steps. I have found that works fine for us and doesn't bother the garden or lawn. The only drawback is that it might be dragged into the house, but we do have a small carpeted area in front of the door with a doormat and I never see sand in the house. Easy to find, inexpensive too.
You can store them in an unheated garage or shed until spring - all you need to do is keep them dormant until spring. If they are hardy in your zone, they should be fine. Pack some snow on the top of the pots end of Jan/beg. of Feb so when spring thaw starts the snow will slowly melt and gently water them. Come March or so, start dragging them outside.
Like Al says, it would help to know what plants they are. In your area, I'd put them in ground. Like Ken says........pot management is iffy at best even with controlled environment like a sheltered perennial house. Storing in basements and sheds are your choice if there are no other options. If it's warm enough they break dormancy, they need light.
I usually do a double cut back on Montauks as well. Normally after the last hard freezes around April, and again about July. If find their habit becomes really gangly if not held tight and distracts from the beauty of their flowers. I also propagate these with abandon because they really seem to do so well in odd and nasty places and they stay within bounds with little work when they are very young. Definitely an under-used and quite hardy perennial for late season interest.
I...quite often...wonder...
if you are awake...ken. ;)
Holly hocks and foxglove are iffy to move even when conditions are optimal. For sure wait on them, and dig them deep because they have taproots and don't like to be disturbed. Best time to move iris, you didn't say what kind...bearded? Is about six weeks after they stop blooming. You can move them in early spring, but they won't like too much moisture if the soil is still cold, and don't expect them to bloom.
Merry Christmas! :)
It's easy to be in denial this year! I still can't believe yesterday was Christmas day, or that it is almost January. Still relatively warm - days last week near 60 degrees! Although it's been cooler this week, it's certainly not December weather. And snaps and alyssum still in bloom, with other plants green and looking good! I still haven't put down my shredded leaf mulch because I'm still waiting for the critters to find their winter homes before they decide to do it in my mulch, lol.
But yes, probably best to wait till spring. Here's hoping it comes very soon!
Dee
Temperate weather for 2012 and beyond. No more earthquakes, tornadoes, hurricanes, or devastating early-season snowstorms. We had 'em all this year and my little green acre really took a beating. I'd be obliged if Santa just brought more normal weather, while at the same time realizing that using the terms "normal weather" and "New England" in the same sentence is an oxymoron.
I would like a giant machine to come here , take the top soil up and shake/mix it well with some good clay, so it could keep some water. Some of my flower beds are bone dry after one day of strong sunshine when combined with wind. I could use at least 50% more space than I have now to spread my rhododendrons better and to make a special bed for late autumn flowering plants.
Hi Norma !
A fuzzy but attractive photo posted tonight on FB of our Saucy and Deanne at Sues Christmas party,wonder if I can figure out a way to post it here ?
I am optimistic that my Christmas tree will in fact be decorated by the close of the weekend tomorrow.I put up the bubble lights this year,still working on those electrical connections!
Here is a link that might be useful: Party Ladies !
Hi Whaas, I've looked up some native plants that I grow, or hybrids of natives, and these are listed for z5 or WI. Sorry, I don't know about soil.
Phlox divaricata Louisiana blue (purplish blue) blooms first in the spring and then phlox pilosa (pink & purple varieties). Princess Diana clematis (hot magenta, large flowering hybrid from crossing with native texensis), Monarda didyma (our native one is a dark mauve purple & listed for z5).
I've read about native Viola pedata bird's foot violets and lots of clematis that are purple shades. There was a famous Polish breeder of clematis, Brother Stefan Franczak, so his hybrids would be cold hardy for you. Clematis on the Web lists his large growing "Polish Spirit" as deep purple blue, "General Sikorski" as mauve blue, "Emilia Plater" as blue violet and his pale "Blue Angel."
Here is a link that might be useful: Article on Brother Stefan Franczak
All, thanks for the great suggestions!
The beauty is that I can repeat the color scheme but have alot of choices to work with.
I haven't heard of half these plants so I have my work cut out for me.
Not sure why I mentioned May Night Salvia in my original post. I meant Blue Hill Salvia...much, much nicer color.