13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I have googled it and the first link that pops up leads to somebody who claims to have it
Here is a link that might be useful: Ryan's Pink
I killed an established yucca by spraying with Roundup but by someone's advice, I added a little dish soap to the solution to help it stick to the leaves. I also had to repeat after it returned, then repeat again, then for good measure I put a big flat rock over the spot and it finally gave up.
It might be easier in the long run to transplant your desired perennials to another area while you're killing the yucca.
In going through all my Bluestone coupons, I know I'll order more than I probably would have if those coupons didn't exist. I still haven't gone through the whole catalog, but I'm sneaking a look now and then.
First there's the 15% off if ordered by mid Feb.
Free shipping coupon
1 plant - any price - free
$2 off any full sun plant
$2 off any plant in coconut fiber pot
$1.50 any white flowering perennial
$2 off any one plant - anything
$1.50 off any phlox
Free plant with $100 order - my choice
Free surprise plant with $85 order
and the list goes on and on. I still have a whole stack of other coupon offers. For me, these make a difference as long as I'm getting plants I really want.
Kevin
I keep a tall (about 8 feet) hedge of Loropetalum formally clipped that serves as a backdrop for my front perennial border. Plants really pop against the dark foliage. The one drawback is it has to be sheared about every six weeks to look its best in summer. But, it is evergreen, blooms spring and fall, has interesting autumn leaf color, and is absolutely bulletproof. Plus, I have found that virtually every color works with dark purple.
Camellia has evergreen glossy leaves and large blooms. They take several years to reach mature height.
http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/sasanqua-camellia-and-japanese-camellia-identification/
Camellia sasanqua grows to 6' - 10' and blooms fall through early winter. Partial to full sun.
Camellia japonica can be up to 15' depending on cultivar and blooms mid-winter through spring. Does not thrive in full sun.
Gardenia could be considered if you want something not quite as tall, with some cultivars 4' - 6'.
http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/gardenia-varieties/
Both Camellia and Gardenia like our acid soil. Give them a little hollytone or ironite.
If you find someone with a bush that you like, both can be rooted from cuttings. I have some Gardenia cuttings in the process of rooting I have seeds and seedlings (open pollinated) from Gardenia jasminoides if you are interested in trade.
Here is a link that might be useful: UGA Downloadable Plant List Publications
Can you transplant in winter?
It depends:
If you are working near the South-facing exposure of a home or building, the sunlight warms the surface and radiates heat that keep the soil from freezing year-round.
In Denver, CO, there was a deep freeze that reached a few degrees below zero a couple weeks ago. Two days later, while snow was still on the ground in most places, I checked an exposed spot near a South-facing wall; the soil was not frozen at all.
Everywhere else, though, frozen solid.
So if you are working in a shaded or partially-shaded area, near a North or East exposure of a building, or in a flat unshaded area far from any structure, don't transplant this late - the roots won't have any opportunity to grow into the soil and the plants will dry out over winter.
If you are working in the narrow, ideal kind of spot I described - which despite being in a Zone 5 area, is more like a Zone 7 microclimate - it's risky but not impossible.
melvalena, that yellow is a cushion spurge. It is actually just about 1 foot tall. If I cut the damaged leaves on the allium to the ground, I suppose it might work.
gardenweed,I have baptisia in another bed. I think it would be too tall and obscure the blooming allium if planted in front. But I wonder if I could get the allium to come up in the center area of a baptisia so that they intermingle. An interesting thought. I'll have to go back to some old pictures to see what the baptisia does and when it does it.
Yes, but since there are dwarf varieties of castor bean that only grow to 4 or 5' high, it could be from one of them. If the rest of the plant got wilted down from frost, you could have seed pods looking like they were at the top of the plant, but in actuality they were in the middle of the plant on the part of the stalk sturdy enough to still be standing.
Remy
Thanks for your responses. It may be castor bean or a related plant. The seed does look similar but not as smooth or polished-looking as the castor beans I'm used to. The plant was small - only 2' tall - and even though it was dead and droopy, I think I might have recognized the large leaves and shape of the castor bean plant. Unfortunately I didn't pay that much attention to the foliage because I didn't know I'd be trying to ID it later.
The seedpod (shown) is hairy and rough, but not spiky. Castor beans have 3 seeds per pod I think and that's what this had.
I'll plant the seeds in the spring and see what I get. Surprises are always fun!
Your monthly flower photos are appreciated by me as well. It is interesting to see what is growing in other places and other people's gardens.
My Primula x polyanthus have been blooming all year and still have a few blooms. I am surprised as think of them as only spring bloomers.
I have a NOID hardy mum that was planted in a fall pot last year and wintered over and rebloomed this fall. Two days after Thanksgiving I cut the still lovely blooms and put the pot in the garage to overwinter.
Two other plants that have been blooming through the frosts are gaillardia 'Burgundy' and my primroses. I checked yesterday and the primroses still have some nice blossoms but the gaillardia looks done.
Wow, thanks so much everybody!
I don't think I was thinking about the fact that there could be more kinds of clay soil than one, but I know it will be amended and mulched.
The astrantias are really nice-looking and I'm not sure why I always pass them up when I see them in catalogues.
Corrine, thanks for the pic- I love the crocosmias (I think I've got the right plant) overarching :)
Kimka, I also love Hepatarica (and anemonellas)and just saw Jeffersonia as well and desperately want.
Crocosmia 'Lucifer' is the arching one in that pic. Seems to transplant here better if I have a large chunk of a division with roots rather than dried out corms from a swap. The dried out ones don't ever grow for me especially if transplanted in fall. All of my spring moved plants have done well & even bloomed!
Now that winter is almost here the evergreens are shining bright & the Carex 'Ice Dance' is the star of the show & they're barely visible when the hosta are out. Heuchera are also nearly evergreen in my climate.
-wieslaw, lol! Thanks for the warning. If I do end up getting it and it DOES turn out to be an invader feel free to tell me "I TOLD YOU SO!" ;-D
-gottagarden, fantastic! The orange poppies really bring out the orange in the Euphorbia amongst all the greenery.
CMK
ken_adrian wrote:
zone .. simply put.. is minimum winter temp ... and the issue is how long it stays at that min temp
Ken, that is much too simple. Then again maybe this is the case for the United States but it is definitely not true for Canada or Europe.
And I quote from the "Agriculture Canada" website:
Agriculture Canada scientists created a plant hardiness map using Canadian plant survival data and a wider range of climatic variables, inincluding minimum winter temperatures, length of the frost-free period, summer rainfall, maximum temperatures, snow cover, January rainfall and maximum wind speed.
Is it still the case that the US Dept of Agr still only considers minimum winter temps in arriving at the US plant hardiness zones? If so I am very surprised.
Ken, I'm in Kansas City, and the ground most definitely freezes here. Snow cover can be iffy, but that doesn't mean the ground isn't frozen. What it does mean is that the plants aren't insulated from the cold. Not to mention, it's very windy here. In order to survive this climate, the plants have to be able to survive cold Arctic air in the winter and hot, humid Gulf air from the south in the summer. Most plants can adapt to one or the other, but not necessarily both. It bites!
Deanna
I love monkshood and chelone for late color
Asters; Agastaches; Coreopsis; Gaillardias; Persicaria 'Crimson Beauty'; Western salvias like 'Ultra Violet','Raspberry Delight'etc.; Aconitums; Lobelias.