13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
Can you transplant in winter?
It depends:
If you are working near the South-facing exposure of a home or building, the sunlight warms the surface and radiates heat that keep the soil from freezing year-round.
In Denver, CO, there was a deep freeze that reached a few degrees below zero a couple weeks ago. Two days later, while snow was still on the ground in most places, I checked an exposed spot near a South-facing wall; the soil was not frozen at all.
Everywhere else, though, frozen solid.
So if you are working in a shaded or partially-shaded area, near a North or East exposure of a building, or in a flat unshaded area far from any structure, don't transplant this late - the roots won't have any opportunity to grow into the soil and the plants will dry out over winter.
If you are working in the narrow, ideal kind of spot I described - which despite being in a Zone 5 area, is more like a Zone 7 microclimate - it's risky but not impossible.
melvalena, that yellow is a cushion spurge. It is actually just about 1 foot tall. If I cut the damaged leaves on the allium to the ground, I suppose it might work.
gardenweed,I have baptisia in another bed. I think it would be too tall and obscure the blooming allium if planted in front. But I wonder if I could get the allium to come up in the center area of a baptisia so that they intermingle. An interesting thought. I'll have to go back to some old pictures to see what the baptisia does and when it does it.
Yes, but since there are dwarf varieties of castor bean that only grow to 4 or 5' high, it could be from one of them. If the rest of the plant got wilted down from frost, you could have seed pods looking like they were at the top of the plant, but in actuality they were in the middle of the plant on the part of the stalk sturdy enough to still be standing.
Remy
Thanks for your responses. It may be castor bean or a related plant. The seed does look similar but not as smooth or polished-looking as the castor beans I'm used to. The plant was small - only 2' tall - and even though it was dead and droopy, I think I might have recognized the large leaves and shape of the castor bean plant. Unfortunately I didn't pay that much attention to the foliage because I didn't know I'd be trying to ID it later.
The seedpod (shown) is hairy and rough, but not spiky. Castor beans have 3 seeds per pod I think and that's what this had.
I'll plant the seeds in the spring and see what I get. Surprises are always fun!
Your monthly flower photos are appreciated by me as well. It is interesting to see what is growing in other places and other people's gardens.
My Primula x polyanthus have been blooming all year and still have a few blooms. I am surprised as think of them as only spring bloomers.
I have a NOID hardy mum that was planted in a fall pot last year and wintered over and rebloomed this fall. Two days after Thanksgiving I cut the still lovely blooms and put the pot in the garage to overwinter.
Two other plants that have been blooming through the frosts are gaillardia 'Burgundy' and my primroses. I checked yesterday and the primroses still have some nice blossoms but the gaillardia looks done.
Wow, thanks so much everybody!
I don't think I was thinking about the fact that there could be more kinds of clay soil than one, but I know it will be amended and mulched.
The astrantias are really nice-looking and I'm not sure why I always pass them up when I see them in catalogues.
Corrine, thanks for the pic- I love the crocosmias (I think I've got the right plant) overarching :)
Kimka, I also love Hepatarica (and anemonellas)and just saw Jeffersonia as well and desperately want.
Crocosmia 'Lucifer' is the arching one in that pic. Seems to transplant here better if I have a large chunk of a division with roots rather than dried out corms from a swap. The dried out ones don't ever grow for me especially if transplanted in fall. All of my spring moved plants have done well & even bloomed!
Now that winter is almost here the evergreens are shining bright & the Carex 'Ice Dance' is the star of the show & they're barely visible when the hosta are out. Heuchera are also nearly evergreen in my climate.
-wieslaw, lol! Thanks for the warning. If I do end up getting it and it DOES turn out to be an invader feel free to tell me "I TOLD YOU SO!" ;-D
-gottagarden, fantastic! The orange poppies really bring out the orange in the Euphorbia amongst all the greenery.
CMK
ken_adrian wrote:
zone .. simply put.. is minimum winter temp ... and the issue is how long it stays at that min temp
Ken, that is much too simple. Then again maybe this is the case for the United States but it is definitely not true for Canada or Europe.
And I quote from the "Agriculture Canada" website:
Agriculture Canada scientists created a plant hardiness map using Canadian plant survival data and a wider range of climatic variables, inincluding minimum winter temperatures, length of the frost-free period, summer rainfall, maximum temperatures, snow cover, January rainfall and maximum wind speed.
Is it still the case that the US Dept of Agr still only considers minimum winter temps in arriving at the US plant hardiness zones? If so I am very surprised.
Ken, I'm in Kansas City, and the ground most definitely freezes here. Snow cover can be iffy, but that doesn't mean the ground isn't frozen. What it does mean is that the plants aren't insulated from the cold. Not to mention, it's very windy here. In order to survive this climate, the plants have to be able to survive cold Arctic air in the winter and hot, humid Gulf air from the south in the summer. Most plants can adapt to one or the other, but not necessarily both. It bites!
Deanna
I don't have any photos of Veronica 'Georgia Blue' in bloom, but here's a photo out of bloom showing its growth habit. (I'm sure that it would be easy to Google for a photo of it blooming.) It's the short, fine-textured foliage that is between and Heuchera and the Siberian iris and then runs backwards and under the lilac on the right side of the photo. The part under the lilac gets virtually no sun, and looks about the same as the part that gets 2 or three hours of sun.
From June 2010
"WonÂt you come into the garden? I would like my roses to see you".- Richard B. Sheridan (1751-1816) English dramatist......The first time I saw that quote, I sent it to my wife and told her it was kinda how I felt about her and my roses....On that day I knew I was rose gardener of some kind or other.....and long, long time before that I knew I wanted my wife around anything that I loved or cared about. I'm not sure exactly what Sheridan meant by those lines but for me, they mean that he loved his roses dearly and had recently come to love dearly whoever it was he was inviting into his garden too....and he wanted the things he loved to be together with each other and himself
Paul from Alabama
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All these are a few of the most beautiful sayings when it comes to joy and happiness. In case you seem to be feeling dreadful, most of these might indeed be beneficial!
Here is a link that might be useful: Change Quotes
You can very easily check whether it is novi-angliae or belgii. If the leaves are hairy, then it is novi-angliae. Novi-belgii has smooth leaves. Additionally, novi-angliae closes its flowers in rain(with 1 or 2 exceptions), novi-belgii stays open. Judging only by the picture, the probability for novi-belgii is very low in my opinion. The plant looks too clumpy(novi-belgii has a running habit). Additionally by the time of blooming the upper leaves of novi-belgii would normally be covered by mildew and lower leaves would be eaten by other fungi, unless sprayed with tons of chemicals.There are a few varietes of novi-belgii that are more resistant to mildew, but they are European and mostly available in Germany.
November 24th. We had 2 nights with freezing. All chrysanthemum flowers survived , but white Poesie turned to pink now.
Some fresh shots:
Chrysanthemum Mary Stoker. Hardy in open places and stands well. Flowers are relatively easily destroyed by wind+rain.
Rudbeckia Herbstsonne pushed some flowers from dry-looking stems
My own seedling. Very hardy, very late, tall, very well standing up. I love robust plants which radiate energy.
Aster Freiburg
Small wine red buttons, own seedling, hardy.
Chrysanthemum Manito. Hardy. Similar to Schweizerland, but later and taller and slower growing.
Weigela tree.
Not many pictures left.
November 25th. Helenium Luc decided to push a new flower out of a dry stem. I wonder what it wants to prove... Here behind the phlox Herbstwalzer.
Mardi Gras made a green stem with a flower on it. How naive can they actually be?
Nuts on Davidia involucrata. I planted 3 nuts 17 years ago and 2 of them sprouted. One started blooming at the age of 15, the other one at 17. Gorgeous little tree.
I have discovered that one of my seedlings chrysanthemums is actually 2 different seedlings planted together. The small yellow buttons is the nice surprice.
I'm one of the last people who has any right to come across as the spelling police!
I wasn't sure if you really meant "healing" in.... To me the spelling changed it from a manly throw it in the ground- kick it with your foot kind of activity to one where you are trying to heal the poor plant of some kind of late season planting insult.... Maybe even talking to the plant and trying to work through a couple of its overwintering fears.... Ok I'm reading way too far into this.
heeling.. is something the british perfected.. with plants like hosta.. to crush the crown of the plant with your heel .. to stimulate release of dormant buds.. to make a larger plant ...
heeling in .. is temporarily planting stock .... to hold them over for a season ...
actually i think they are spelled the same ... but google has failed me.. and with the caffeine rush.. i am not caring any more right now.. lol
Here is a link that might be useful: link
I keep a tall (about 8 feet) hedge of Loropetalum formally clipped that serves as a backdrop for my front perennial border. Plants really pop against the dark foliage. The one drawback is it has to be sheared about every six weeks to look its best in summer. But, it is evergreen, blooms spring and fall, has interesting autumn leaf color, and is absolutely bulletproof. Plus, I have found that virtually every color works with dark purple.
Camellia has evergreen glossy leaves and large blooms. They take several years to reach mature height.
http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/sasanqua-camellia-and-japanese-camellia-identification/
Camellia sasanqua grows to 6' - 10' and blooms fall through early winter. Partial to full sun.
Camellia japonica can be up to 15' depending on cultivar and blooms mid-winter through spring. Does not thrive in full sun.
Gardenia could be considered if you want something not quite as tall, with some cultivars 4' - 6'.
http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/gardenia-varieties/
Both Camellia and Gardenia like our acid soil. Give them a little hollytone or ironite.
If you find someone with a bush that you like, both can be rooted from cuttings. I have some Gardenia cuttings in the process of rooting I have seeds and seedlings (open pollinated) from Gardenia jasminoides if you are interested in trade.
Here is a link that might be useful: UGA Downloadable Plant List Publications