13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I think I can ID this one:
Shasta Daisy 'Fiona Coghill' Leucanthemum x superbum,
Sun to Part Shade
Height 65-75 cm, Space 45 cm
Just bought it this Fall, still have a name tag with photo of it and it is exactly like this one. I am just Googling more info about it and came upon your page.
Hey Magan....you can't know how much it means to me for someone to "hit me back" after all this time. Haven't checked out your plant ID yet, but I don't care.....lol
I've given up on my garden (sorta)-- due to water bill expenses plus physical limitations which limit my commitment to "tending" my babies.
But just happened to step (accidently) onto this EXACT same plant today....& thought "I gotta dig it up before it gets put to death."
Soooo....kinda strange that YOU brought it to my attention. RIGHT NOW!! Kinda like a kick in the ass...tellin me to take care of my babies...lol...otherwise, they're gonna become part of my landlord's 'grass cutting' routine (chopping everything down cuz I can't maintain it).
Your post made me realize that I need to, at least, dig up the "good stuff" and pass it on somewhere else....IF I can't take care of it where it is.....
But as I looked at it all today, WITHOUT WEEDS & NO WATER REQUIREMENTS, I gotta say...I really DID want to let it all grow back next season & not give up, as I'd planned to do.
Soooo, thanks AGAIN GIRLFRIEND !!!!!
A bright orange-red you might consider is 'Distant Planet'. It came out of the now closed Seneca Hills Perennials in upper state New York. I've planted it in several places in my garden and it has survived 5 Chicago winters. The oldest clump is now about 3 feet across. I believe Lazy Susan's mailorder nursery sells it.
Sounds pretty! Since the foliage is light, the darker flowers might be showier. I have Walker's Low and Six Hills Giant. I don't think I've gotten volunteers from either one.
Google says Walker Low is a hybrid. The parents are Nepeta racemosa and Nepeta nepetella. Mosly sterile but may produce an occasional seedling.
I am in zone6a and I have had good luck with Mums coming back. I haven't a lot..three altogether up until last year, but those three have been coming back for at least 7 years.
One was up against the house facing west and I dug it out and potted it up in the spring and it is still in a pot. The other was in a part shade corner that seems partly exposed. I think the third is Sheffield Pink and it is in too much shade and entirely exposed to the windiest part of the yard and comes back every year, even a few years with cold temps and very little snow cover.
Last year, I purchased two mums and two asters at a local nursery to use in my containers. I enjoyed them all last fall and just left them in their 20" containers all winter. I was very surprised to see both asters come back and one of the mums. I moved the asters to perennial beds in late spring I guess and they seem to have formed buds, so I am waiting to see how they do when they bloom. The mum that survived was in a window box on the ground and I left it there all summer. It hasn't grown any larger than it was last year but there are buds on it. I really should plant that one in the ground this fall. Soon actually.
I also bought a 3 pack of mums from Bluestone in the spring and they are in the ground after hanging around too long. [g] They haven't grown much but at least they have been in the ground for awhile but I just realized they are in my windiest location. So now I am not sure whether to try moving them now or wait for spring.
I might try to buy more in the spring from Bluestone. I don't usually buy three of the same kind either. They have combos but they haven't appealed to me. They do have a nice selection of mums that are different than what you usually see locally. Really, I do understand the point Donna was making about 'impulse buying', but really I prefer to wait until something is in bloom to choose it any way. I don't think of that as impulse buying though. I just don't think it works out well every time, to choose a plant from a photo in a catalog, or a book. The colors in photos are just not dependable. Therefore, I have purchased every mum, except this past order from Bluestone, in the fall. What is worse, I usually have used them in containers all fall and then either left them in containers all winter or planted them in the ground. So it is surprising that they have come back.
I WOULDLIKE TO KNOW THE NAMES OF TRUE HARDY CHRISTANTHUMUMS AND WHERE TO BUY THEM.
I HAVE ONE VARITY CALLED THE "SHEFIELD" WHICH DOES A WONDERFULL JOB. i HAVE SEEN THREE OTHER DIFFERENT COLOURS HERE IN A PARK IN WASHINGTON DC. I WANT TO PURCHASE THESE KINDS [WHITE DARK ORANGE AND PINK]
This won't help you now, but Bluestone did something kind of interesting last spring. I don't know if this is their regular policy since that order was my first from them, but I took advantage of it.
Included with my plants was a note saying if I mailed back the shipping box and packing materials, I would receive a voucher for free shipping on my next order. It cost me around $7 to mail back the box, but the postage on that order was over $20, so if I order around the same from them next spring, I'll definitely be ahead of the game. Chances are I will order that much again.
Kevin
Your pot is pretty deep since those are seedlings, so that probably isn't your problem - Ken is on the right track, I think. Columbines aren't house plants. They like cold weather, though I don't know if they are hardy in your zone? I have wintersown lots of columbine seeds and they sprout pretty reliably after a few months out in the cold weather. It takes a few months for them to get big enough to plant out, but once they are in the ground, they take off. I have killed a few by not planting them out early enough - they couldn't grow the tap root in the pot, but my pots were a lot smaller than yours. Mine usually bloom the next year. Of course, I am in a completely different zone, with a longer growing season. I have never actually bought a columbine plant from a greenhouse, all of mine are from seed.
Becky
Here is one of my favorites from this spring:
Here is a link that might be useful: 
to clarify.. i think they are in shock from bringing them into the heated house ..
all the following variables changed at that moment:
light intensity
humidity
heat
possible frost you missed
water content of media ...
its simply shock ... and as to which caused it.. i say.. all the above ....
but that says nothing as to eventual success ... and how you will manipulate all those variables.. in your house.. for a plant that prefers not being in the house ...
lets put it this way.. its an experiment ... you may win.. you may not.. but one thing for sure.. you will learn something ... we just dont know what right now .. lol
ken
All Agastaches should be left uncut over the winter, except for Agastache foeniculum and its cultivars. Yours is not A. foeniculum, so don't cut it back. Your salvia is one of the commonly grown salvias that can be cut back. Western salvias, which include cultivars like 'Ultra Violet', 'Black Cherry' etc, should be treated like the western Agastaches. Gaura also should not be cut back.
As always...outstanding photos and thank you for providing ID for each plant.
I too have Aster frikartii 'M�nch'. I planted it just this past July and it was an outstanding performer even in its first year ie flower upon flower up until a couple of weeks ago. I do hope it survives the winter.
I am curious as to your fall routine for "Lemon Queen". Do you cut it back from a very high 6 feet to...?? Does it self seed?
Rouge, I have not experienced selfseeding from Lemon Queen because I cut it down. It is totally hardy for me, so I cut it totally down when the leaves turn brown. But you can let them stay until spring. The stems will collect some leaves and such, which will offer some protection from the worst frosts.
Aster X frikartii Monch has two dots above the letter o in original spelling. I was not aware that it will be trasformed into such a strange sign combination. LOL
People are so ignorant. Just ignore them. One of our regionally famous landscape/gardening centers is owned by a man and host of a news segment on gardening in Cleveland! Petitti's Gardening Center has a segment all summer long on Fox 8 Cleveland News and the host is AJ Petitti and most definitely a man :)
Oh, you're all just a bunch of horto-sexuals!
Purple, I would have had to beat you off my husband with a shovel earlier this year when he (also a professional horticulturist) brought home a big flat of bright purple Angelonia.
Back in my university days (Va. Tech), the hort. department was mostly male. That included the greenhouse production courses and the floriculture classes, too. I've never in my whole life considered the love of and care of flowering plants a feminine (only) art.
Teakettle, Sorry for the delay in responding to your question. I was away for a few days.
Anyway, here's the picture again with the ID's below.
The tall yellow flower is Ligularia przewalskii. To the right is an astilbe, with Regal Splendor hosta in front along with Lady's Mantle and a new brunnera. Yes the fern is the common ostrich fern. I give lots of it away every year.
Unless you consider them very unsightly right now, there's no reason not to let them stay green as long as possible. You can cut them back after they have frozen and died, or even cut them back in spring.
They will naturally die down all the way to the ground when they do go dormant. The stems should basically fall out on their own or you can cut them down to 1-2 inches.
They may be established well enough survive winter whether you cut them or not, but you'll certainly improve your chances even more if you leave them green as long as possible. September-planted mums sometimes make it and sometimes they don't. But the green leaves will allow the roots to continue getting deeper.
I tend to cut them both down, the asters because they tend to get mildew and I want to reduce the amount of disease that winters over. My particular mums, which are a totally winter hardy, late-blooming variety, have pretty tough stems, so if they stop blooming before the snow buries them I cut them back to remove the dead stick look. Most often, however, they disappear beneath the snow before they stop blooming and they get trimmed back when they emerge in the spring.
I couldn't finish looking at all the photos. So rich. Got garden envy and indigestion at the same time. Not to mention frustration I've never seen 3/4 for sale at any garden center and I'll have to search on line when it is not the end of the work week and late at night as well.
Marie
Thanks all for lovely comments.
Hostaholic, thanks for the info. Recently I have been studing the issue of allelopathic properties of some Centaureas. According to some experiments, it was not decided with certainty whether other plants misthrived because of the chemicals or just because of 'starvation' caused by the plants in question. Up to now I have observed that an aconitum growing very close to Helianthus Triumph de Gand was in bad condition. But it could also be ascribed to winter damage. But I also know another thing. I have a bird feeder with sunflower seeds. There is no grass under the feeder.
Does anybody know anything about Sanguisorba canadensis as a garden plant???
^The pieces I am plucking out of the crown are not completely stem or root but I think they are functioning much more like roots. They are full of the gooey latex sap that comes from roots, which I think contains a lot of stored energy, and clearly the tissue is still fully alive though the plant is completely dormant.
I think it is basically a root cutting and has had a very high success rate when it is put in a cool/cold spot. A few that I thought had died... recently produced leaves, to my surprise. And many of the true root cuttings I made by digging very low down on the plant have not produced any leaves at all! Those all failed, but the cuttings containing parts of the dormant crown of the plant survived.
Hi Ken
The "barrel" is just an old planter about 30" wide and 24" deep that had some old soil in it and I just put the liatris corms (?) in there. it's not a covered barrel, but the corms are on top of one another...a couple of layers. Basically they are in a pile (as you suggested) with some dirt underneath.
I do have soil that I could put on top of them ,,, would that be good? I can also cover them with a lid that would fit loosely...that would keep the sun off them...
what do you suggest?
did i do any harm by watering them this morning? I sort of
panicked. they looked like the were so dried out. The sun is out today and they are exposed...should I cover them?
thanks again for your advise...
the drying harmed them.. not the watering..
they will need air.. any cover must let in a free flow of air movement.. hence the straw suggestion ...
ya know.. you sound like a worrier.. if they lived for years.. hanging in baskets all thru winter.. i dont know how much you should worry about them..
the only thing you have changed.. is exposing the bulb/corm ... so.. figure out how to cover the corms.. w/o causing damage ...
review prior answer.. rather than me repeating it all again..
good luck
ken
ps: ... instead of putting all of them in one system... you might want to throw half on mother earth .. in full shade.. on the north side of a structure ..... and cover with straw ... just in case one system fails.. the other may not ... spread your odds of failure ...