13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Mine is pink and it was named Dictamnus albus purpureus. It is a light pink, but not quite as light as this picture seems.

The card that came with it says "rich, moist, well-drained soil, full sun". My soil is dry and lean. I probably amended it though. My sun amount is pretty good, not great as the surrounding woods seems to get taller each year. That hosta didn't last there. too sunny and dry.

I like that it is basically carefree, low-maint and no problems. But I have not figured out what to plant with it. The bed it is in was primarily designed as a yellow-red-orange summer bed, but some spring pastels have crept in ad-hoc.

The bloom time would be similar to Iris'es, Amsonia, Geranium bikova, peonies, Salvia (in picture), tulips

I have found the name of the skin condition it causes : '' Phytophotodermatitis (also known as "Berloque dermatitis"[1]:32) is a chemical reaction which makes skin hypersensitive to ultraviolet light. It is frequently mistaken for hereditary conditions such as atopic dermatitis or chemical burns, but it is caused by contact with the photosensitizing compounds found naturally in some plants and vegetables like parsnips, citrus fruits, and more ''

Here is a picture of the natural habitat taken from Wikipedia in Polish. :

The habitat is described as dry forests and sun-baked dry hills, soil rich in calcium (Ca) but poor in other nutrients.. Nearly no watering in cultivation. The plant is listed as toxic (2 alcaloids among many others), used in medicine and perfume industry. Hardy in zone 3 to 9. Can attain the age of 20 years.

The picture was taken from this site:

http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyptam_jesionolistny

You can also be interested in this quote:

''Phytophotodermatitis connotes phototoxic reactions consisting of erythema (with or without blistering) and delayed hyperpigmentation. Phototoxicity implies an immediate or delayed inflammatory reaction caused by the combination of a topical or oral photosensitizing agent followed by the appropriate wavelength of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) to the skin.37 This response can occur in any person who has been exposed to adequate amounts of a photosensitizing chemical and UVR. It is therefore not an immunologic reaction, and no prior sensitizing exposure is necessary for any potential victim.''

For die-hard taxonomists: As far as I know none of these names are scientifically valid: Ruber, Purpureus, Caucasicus. They all refer to the same species and are synonymous(But I may be wrong too :-) )

Here is a link that might be useful: phytophotodermatitis

I have had catmint is less than optimal sun previously, and it did fine. Became rather sprawly post flowering, which it tends to do regardless of sun exposure (nothing a good mid-season whack-back won't fix...) and still bloomed very nicely. IIRC, was probably closer to 6 hours sun, though.

They both bloom well for me here in part sun, especially the cat mint. The main thing for both of these plants is very well drained soil and less watering in less sun. Don't know what your planting area is like, but if you can raise the soil level and plant them high they should do fine.

If your coreposis and rudbeckia are mildewing, is it sort of damp in your planter? One of the few thing that can kill sedium is poorly drained and wet soil.

Paul

The annual type Rudbeckia seems to be very susceptible to mildew, much more so than the perennial types. Have you tried the perennials?

The good news is that whatever you decide, you can rationalize it was "the best thing to do."

I think it's a matter of personal preference. In a natural setting, there would be no gardener to "clean up" and the plants don't care what becomes of their dead leaves. Please remove them if they are bringing you unhappiness. If left alone, (and not eaten by worms or pill bugs,) those little piles of dead leaves can help you remember where the plants are, especially when you're out there in the spring, hunched over, looking for signs of something green coming up. I also think the little clumps of dead foliage help hold leaves in place around them.

Thank you all for your very helpful responses. I will definitely do some clean up this weekend. I was more worried about not knowing which plants should be left until the spring since I know some plants (Buddleia in particular) do much better with a spring cutting.

This place has definitely been my best source of information since buying my first home last year.

Evergreen, variegated, shade tolerant, Carex 'Ice Dance' in front on bottom left. Even in mid summer when dwarfed by hosta it brightens up the garden. All winter long I can see it from the house windows & in another garden when I pull up the driveway.

miscanthus adagio---

Duane

My nepeta 'Little Titch' grew slowly for a couple of years. Last year it started to self seed but not invasively. I love it because it is so short and compact and reblooms after being cut back making it a very nice edger in my gardens.

Even tho a plant has low water needs ONCE ESTABLISHED, most plants do need extra TLC the first season. If you don't get reasonable rain each week for the first couple of months after planting, you may have a lot of early mortality unless you can get them to water (slow and deep) occasionally. Also it would be really helpful to plant in the early spring before things heat up, and while there is still a good chance for rain. (or yet this fall, if it isn't too late where they live).

Re: plants -
* nepeta (like Walker Low) should be carefree and grow well; doesn't self seed
* coreopsis Moonbeam - many of us in the north (z5) find that it is a weak grower. It may hang on for several years, but doesn't seem to thrive. Corepsis zagreb is much more robust - to the degree that it should be divided fairly regularly. Coreopsis creme brulee - put in small plants this spring it it took off like gangbusters... but have no experience with how strongly it will come back next year
* gaillardia - is often shortlived - seems to need amazing winter drainage, or else let it self-seed.
* salvia (like May Night), or russian sage should do well

Consider adding some daffodils for spring - critters don't bother them, they multiply, and don't ask for much.

Beth
Z5 northern MI

Keep this in mind one day you will get older. I am now 81 and all sudden it hit me in the back and it kills me to bend or work only about 10 -15 minutes at a time. It got so bad I couldn't do any weeding for 2 weeks and guess what weeds,weeds and more weeds. So really think it over how big you want that flower bed

It was my dream to have lots of land. I found it and in the process of landscaping. It has a lot of mature trees. It is 4 acres of the 4...2 acres are woods. I am having fun. I will retire for good soon and it will be gardening fun for me.

I am living my dream. As one of the poster said my dream was different garden themes. I have finished my Shade Garden and a "Meditation Asian Theme". Next will be the "Pond". I am slow but sure getting rid of all the grass for the perennials. I have an orchard with 3 apple trees, Cherry Tree, Pear Tree, and Berries, and Grape Arbor. These were on the property. Later I will put the trail back in that leads to a 10' tall outdoor fireplace in the woods.

As you can see some of the work was done already but it was overgrown and in poor shape. But it only took 2 years to get everything looking healthy again.
I think as long as you have good health and it is something you enjoy I cannot think of anything that can keep you in that good health than to have something as active as gardening to keep you in good health. I know people in their 70s and 80s gardening on large properties.

I cannot imagine getting up after I retire and sitting all day in front of the TV. or.... No hours, hours and hours of me time in the garden. Working in the garden is fun for me it is not a chore.

I have lots of friends and entertain a lot but that is in the evening. I want to garden in the day.

I do need someone to do the blasted housework. Now that is slave work. LOL

given enough time.. many plants will fairy ring.. the best growth being on the exterior where it is growing into fresh soil .. and the middle dying out ...

at that point the old and dead needs to be removed...

and by doing so.. you add fresh new soil ... air and water circulation .. there is just no downside ...

though we think of them as perennials.. any given part of the plant does not live forever... but the plant does ...

as pieces mature.. and head toward the geriatric years.. they simply lose vigor ... just like grandpa.. lol ...

i really think its just the fresh un-compacted soil ... plus teenage plants ... that simply explode with vigor ...

not much science there.. just observation and opinion ...

ken

Last spring I got impatient about my salvia argentea coming up thru the bark and I got to poking around in the dirt below and came up with a teeny toothpick thing with a bit of green on it. In a panic I thought oh no what have I done, pulled up my salvia???? I plopped it back in the dirt 15 inches away and patted soil over it...along with bark and... then just hoped. By August I had two beautiful salvias with big gray fuzzy leaves! Now if I did that on purpose (like I'm tempted to) I would probably come up with nothing. I just don't know what I'm doing.

Persicaria affinis - dwarf fleeceflower

It starts blooming in early June (light pink) and is still blooming now (dark rust pink). That's right, the entire gardening season. It makes a nice tight edger that clumps out tightly, not invasively. After our first frost the leaves will go a nice autumn rust red. Never bothered by any pests or diseases, always looks good. Except in May when its knobby knees show, it's slow to get started.

I have had this at plant sales and can't give it away. It is a supporting player, not a diva. People always want to buy glamour queens. It doesn't fit well in a pot, but I wouldn't be without it in my garden. Here it is in July on the bottom, making a nice frame for the coneflowers.

I have several other persicaria, but this is such a workhorse and so reliable. From Side Garden in July

Beautiful garden shot gottagarden. ;-)
CMK

A feast for the eyes. Thank you Woody! I hope someday to witness a big Monarch Butterfly gathering in person, but in the meanwhile, that was very satisfying, indeed. Thanks to the photographer, too!

Yeona

I enjoyed your photos Woodyoak. I hardly ever have more than one Monarch at a time in my yard. I saw four yesterday nectaring on my zinnias though, on their way to Mexico I suppose.
I've seen a couple other people post photos of Heptacodium covered in Monarchs and it makes me want one. I tried to root cuttings last summer and I've never had anything hold its leaves for so long and not grow roots. I'm still mad at them. lol

I have a very large patch of Algerian Ivy planted as a ground cover on a slope to prevent erosion. I have three shrubs that do well in it two dogwoods and one Callistemon. I have to keep the ivy clear for about four feet from the shrubs. A yearly job. Al

I do not know what kind of Ivy I have either it was in the bed when I brought the house. What I have in this semi-sun bed is......

Phlox paniculata Becky Towe (Tall Varigaited leaf)
Candy Lilies
Daylily
Sedum Autumn Joy
Knockout Rose Bush
Hydrangea with a Clematis growing through it.

The area is damp area because it is near a down spout. I think we need to remember a zone 5 sun is different than a zone 6 or higher sun. The Hydrangea works since it is in the shady part of the garden.

I wish I could forget-me-nots. What stops me is all the time I spend pulling out the seedlings, through out my garden. Al

Veronica definitely sounds like the way to go. Better to plant in fall or spring?

I've concluded that translating a few hours of sun into part shade or not depends entirely on what time of day the sun is hitting. The area you describe gets slammed with sun in the hottest hours of the day, which probably means you'd want plants that like more sun than shade plants. I can't tell where you are, so I don't know how hot it gets nor is it clear how much regular water you'd be getting during the hot months. Those factors matter, of course, as plants that prefer some shade generally fare worse if it's hotter and dryer. If your summers are mild and not especially dry, then even baptisia might be okay in that spot. Soil content and moisture retention matter too.

It does seem like there would be a large number of plants that would be potentially happy there. I'd click the "mostly sunny" box of an online search, then look at other factors.

Just my 2 cents. =)

I am thinking that with that limited hours, something like coreopsis is out, but something that go from sun to part shade would work. So stick with something like Rudbeckia hirta, but not goats beard. The problem is that in this area, it can get droughty or rainy.

Paul