13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials


I've not grown that particular BB, but in general Buddleia are known for dying over the winter, especially in z6 or lower. One thing most agree on is to wait until you see new growth in the spring before pruning/shaping. I've not tried to grow one in a container, but a container is considered to be at least 1 and usually 2 zones colder than where you actually are. An unprotected container is also subject to repeated freezing/thawing so it is a difficult environment.
Out of curiosity, I googled this plant and looked at all of the links from pg. 1 of the search. It seems to be a new cultivar available for only a few years, most of the sites that sell it are in UK and have no info about winter hardiness. Most of UK is zone 8. I did find this, "Temperature Tolerance: A hardy plant which should survive normal winter conditions outside, especially if protected from the hardest frosts." That doesn't sound good since you're in NJ.
If it were my plant (in NJ,) I would consider it as only hardy to a higher zone and dig a hole for the container near the house and cover with a big pile of leaves.

I've also given up on Moonbeam altho' I think it's the prettiest one out there. I can't keep it alive and I'm tired of spending limited garden funds replacing it year after year. It's sterile so the seeds won't germinate which makes winter sowing it a dead end (pun intended). Zagreb is a stronger yellow but it's an amazing performer so I've resigned myself to just dividing that and planting it around the garden.

Since her coreopsis has re-seeded I'm guessing it's not one of the threadleaf varieties. I no longer grow any of the other varieties but when I did I left them over winter. If more plants than I wanted survived the winter I dug them out, moved, gave away etc. the extras in spring.




I can attest to the fact the plant I have is not very drought tolerant. We're now in our 5th week with no rain, temps have been high, but I have been watering. Within the last week, this one went totally crispy. None of my other astilbe have done that. I know it's not dead, but it sure is ugly right now.
Kevin


No problem.
GW doesn't allow you to post multiple replies in a thread if they are posted minutes apart, but you can get around that if you change the title in the: "Subject of Posting" box. For instance, the title of my thread was: "Astilbe ID please if you want to take a guess". All you need to do is leave off the word Astilbe so the title is changed to: "ID please if you want to take a guess" or change it to anything else you want. Then you can post as often as you like. Just keep changing the title. I learned that little trick years ago.
Kevin

So, for the first part of your post, you said that the you divided a red blooming Helenium. Then one half of it bloomed yellow while the other is the red-orange? Could have been you a yellow seedling/plant growing in amongst the red one?
For the part about your red one turning burnt orange...I find Helenium to be quite changeable when it comes to color. My 'Coppelia' naturally starts out a dark reddish color that (as the flower matures and ages) turns a coppery orange. I also think weather and possibly temerature and even moisture can have a lot to do with it as well. In the late spring to early summer when my 'Mardi Gras' Helenium first starts to bloom the color is a plain light orange with some golden and orange hints. Then when fall rolls around the splashes of dark orange are more pronounced, which makes me think the cooler temps have something to do with colors changing.
Hope that has helped you some (and wasn't too confusing! ;-)
CMK


How true! I've never seen seeds for Kenilworth ivy for sale but love when one shows up in a pot!
Last year a Talinum showed up in one of my pots and it's back this year, from what looked like a seedling.
Apparently I have a Lady Banks rose growing along the fence that is too young to have been planted by the previous occupant and definitely on my side of the fence. Supposed to be a few years till it really starts to flower, but I'm patient.
Berry briars - really hate those for 49 weeks of the year.
Still waiting for a redbud to sprout at my Mom's in a spot where I can actually dig it up.
Not a perennial but I love the okra plant that was smart enough to show up in my veggie patch instead of any of the other beds.

probably.. its all about heat ...
for me.. now .. its in the 70's during the day .. and 50's at night... warm for some root growing.. but cool enough at night.. to offset any intense drying from daytime heat ...
if you are still sneaking into the 80's by day .... and not cooling off at night.. you might want to give it another week or two ...
keep them well watered deep into fall ... not sopping wet.. but just consistent moisture ... none of this.. put the hose away at first frost [10/1].. and hope in the 6 to 8 weeks before full dormancy/ground freeze [1/1] ... mother nature will provide enough moisture ... eh ..
its not like they will need a lot of water, with cold nights ... you just dont want them to go into winter totally dry ....
ken

All thanks for sharing your experiences.
Good to know how to use this plant now.
Wieslaw, thanks for the addtional recommendations of 'Lynda and Rodney' and 'Postman's Pride'. A blooming purple foilage plant in September is a great addition in my mind.

I think your plants look fine, however anything planted next to a building is going to lean away from the building because the side facing the building is not getting the same amount of light the other sides are receiving. This is especially noticeable with any plant that needs a lot of light like Sedum.
Kevin

i claim to be no expert as to what comes out the other end of an animal.. though i have been accused of shoveling it around a bit.. lol ...
but it depends what goes in the front end ....
over your multiple posts.. it SEEMS ...you always talk of ONLY spreading it around ... though that is one way of doing it.. you might want to consider using a garden fork to work it in a bit .... throwing down what you call a gob ... and then forking the soil a bit to loosen it... and work it in ....
frankly .. if it smells to rich .. it probably isnt aged well enough to use in the garden ...
aged 'nure is more of a compost .. rather than just a pile of poop ... or what you call.. a GOB ...
sooo .. in summation your honor .. if your olfactory senses are over-whelmed.. it is probably not aged enough ... [of course.. since you own the stinkee animal.. perhaps you wouldnt be offended by the smell as much as us.. lol ...]
i would say at least over-winter.. and probably a year ...
all that said... you could start building a bed for next fall ... and work it into the soil ... letting it lay fallow .. rather than simply making a pile so as to age ... and then.. next fall.. you move everything in a current bed.. into the new bed.. and renovate the old bed ... there are many ways to do it all .. if you dont duct tape yourself into a box and not look outside of it ...
ken



My thoughts, also. But with such density, I'd lean toward crown gall.
I'm happy I posted this. How about root-knot nematode? I found this previous thread on GW. Looks like it's curable.
What's really odd is that this plant has shown no signs of decline. It's been growing and blooming for years now.
Here is a link that might be useful: root-knot