13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Melaroma, see below for the link to the thread that I think aachenelf was referring to.

I've started liatris from seed, by wintersowing. I've had success growing them, but it does take some time from seed. I can't recall exactly, but I think it's at least a second-year bloomer. I think that while I'll continue to throw some seeds in a container every winter, I'll also supplement by buying some to plant. I'm trying to grow more and doing so by seed is just taking too long. I want a LOT more of these!

Currently, I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why mine all grow so strangely. They all seem to start off sideways, then straighten up, kind of like the letter "L". I wish I could get them to grow straight!

Good luck,
:)
Dee

Here is a link that might be useful: liatris thread

The roots of liatris are like caviar to rodents. I have given up on them. No matter where I planted them, the rodents have always found them.

I was just reminded of another Phlox div. My niece had some plant growing in her garden that she couldn't identify. She said I gave it to her, but I had never seen it before. Anyhow,I ID'd it as Phlox div. Her's is in full sun! It was quite robust.

When I took that photo of Phlox div., I remember thinking how lovely that one, single tulip looked in that clump of pale blue and the possibilities of planting Phlox div. and tulips together intentionally. My pairing was an accident. I have no idea where that tulip came from. In fact, it's the only tulip in that particular bed.

I may have had tulips there years and years ago and this was the only survivor. I have no idea, but I like it. It also proves my theory you don't have to plant masses of any one plant or bulb to create something visually pleasing.

Kevin

Pulmonaria, maybe? But generally they have silver/grey spots or blotches in the leaves.

Karen

Can you post a picture of your flowers in question?

I use this one for "House Plants"

and this one for "Perennials"

The MGB Kemper Center Plant Finder lets you specify plant requirements and characteristics as well as tons of other search options like groundcover, fragrant, etc. I love it. Someone here suggested it to me a few weeks ago and it's become a place I can spend hours at!

Here is a link that might be useful: MGB Kemper Center Plant Finder

You can prune it too.

Thanks everyone! I will give it a try. I will loosen around the plant with a fork and then divide with a shovel down the center and plant the half lifted out some place else. Well that is how we learn. Elizabeth

I have seen them too. Mixed messages concerning hardiness and whether the plants are really perenial. No information whether the seeds germinated 'normally' or developed in a laboratory. They are marketed as Rudbeckias: Berlin, Dublin, Peking.

wieslaw, I've seen those too and they look like just regular R. hirta type strains, at least to me. The Echinacea x Rudbeckia plants that I saw were very different.

I agree. It's a really bad neighbor.... Spent much of a summer doing nothing but trying to dig these up. Didn't work.

Similar to ken, I now cut them back to about 2 inches above ground, and then hack them with a knife, through the middle, at least with a cross-cut, if not three, depending on size. And then drizzle roundup. For the really large ones, a piece of rerod stuck down through the pith, and then circled around some, leaves a good cavity for pouring in the round-up.

There will still be sprouts that come up in the vicinity of the plant, from the side roots. Zap them, too.

And, Ken, the 'food' references on this one come from the fact that the earliest sprouts of this plant in the spring can be eaten, when cooked. And in areas and times when *any* fresh edible in spring is gold, they were worth it. When the plant is more than a sprout, it becomes less and less edible. And the roots aren't.

Doesn't mean we want it growing, and spreading by seed and by root, in our gardens.

The poop of the birds eating the berries is the same colour as the berries, and can make a real mess if it hits your laundry.

Hops can also be deadly to dogs, just in case you have a furry friend.

It's a very good question :-) I always try to keep in mind both the growth habits and any pruning requirements before combining vines. As a rule, I will not combine any very aggressive vine with a less aggressive one....the more aggressive one always wins, usually to the detriment of the lesser. I'd consider hops to be on the upper end of aggressiveness.....any vine that can grow 30' or more in a single season wins my prize for aggressive behavior! Not to mention battling with root spread and associated shoots. Plus, its a scratchy devil to try and prune back in season.

I also will only combine clematis with other clematis with similar pruning requirements. It just simplifies things so much.

AFA hops being dangerous to dogs, that has only been established with certain breeds (namely greyhounds) and only if a reasonable quantity is ingested. In fact, extract of hops is a common ingredient in a joint pain relief medication used by veterinarians so can't be all that toxic. A golden hop vine and a previous pet Cocker spaniel did not get along well however.....the raspy and amazingly fast growing vine stems would grab at her soft coat and tangle her up so that she couldn't make her way back inside. I'd have to go out with my shears and rescue her -- THAT'S when I decided to get rid of my hop vine!

Thanks for all the ideas! I just wanted to have a permanent mark showing where the bulbs are planted so I don't dig them up. I'm always digging and moving things around. I dug up a bulb this week while digging. I have dug into a bulb before and damaged it. It would be nice to have something saying, "Don't Dig Me!!!" LOL.

Mindy -

The muscari marker is sheer genius ! Since I don't need to know WHAT
bulbs are planted in any given spot - I'll recognize them when they show
up - the muscari provide the added bonus of random spots of Spring
color. And, if you really NEEDED to know where a particular group of
bulbs were located, you could always identify them with "color-coded"
muscari - blue, purple, white, pink, yellow - just remember to take notes
so you will know what each color represents !

Carl

Be aware that deer will snack on the new growth in spring. That works for me, because I always cut the new spring growth back by about 1/2 when it has reached about 14 to 18 inches. Bambi helps. I just need to even it up. Bambi lets it alone when the new spring growth matures. I do like the deep green leathery leaves that, as said above, are attractive all the growing season. It is not evergreen however. The plant becomes woody with age, but covers it's legs well with foliage in early spring. Mine is not showing any sign of budding up yet, but it is still early.

It does reseed some and I have moved these seedlings to other places and they do well in my somewhat ammended clay soil.

I've seen these for sale locally. I was under the impression that they bloomed late enough so that heavy frost could stop the show prematurely in upper zone 6 and further north. I'd still take the chance except that after a good season of Shasta daisies, I'm not sure I need a lesser show of similar white daisies in fall.