13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

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echinaceamaniac(7)

I planted a sedum just like that. I think it looks awesome hanging down the sides. They flop sometimes in the garden so why not let them hang down the sides of a container? I love the way your plants look. Great job. I might try something different with my containers next year. I got so tired of watering them every day this summer.

I think Ice Plant would look great in a container. I've never seen a plant bloom so well in the summer. It blooms nonstop. Have you considered that one?

    Bookmark     September 9, 2011 at 6:11PM
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crackingtheconcrete(7a)

Thanks so much, echinaceamaniac! :)
I love sedums and just popped some in there as people gave me sprigs in exchanges :) I have another planter that is jealous, so will try to put other hanging perennials in that next year (maybe Campanula?)
Yes!! :) I do have ice plants growing in a strawberry container and it looked great until the recent soaking rains :)

    Bookmark     September 9, 2011 at 7:59PM
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echinaceamaniac(7)

You can prune it too.

    Bookmark     September 8, 2011 at 5:44PM
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wren_garden(zone 5b/6)

Thanks everyone! I will give it a try. I will loosen around the plant with a fork and then divide with a shovel down the center and plant the half lifted out some place else. Well that is how we learn. Elizabeth

    Bookmark     September 9, 2011 at 11:30AM
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wieslaw59

I have seen them too. Mixed messages concerning hardiness and whether the plants are really perenial. No information whether the seeds germinated 'normally' or developed in a laboratory. They are marketed as Rudbeckias: Berlin, Dublin, Peking.

    Bookmark     September 9, 2011 at 9:14AM
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coolplantsguy(z6 Ontario)

wieslaw, I've seen those too and they look like just regular R. hirta type strains, at least to me. The Echinacea x Rudbeckia plants that I saw were very different.

    Bookmark     September 9, 2011 at 10:21AM
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linda_schreiber(z5/6 MI)

I agree. It's a really bad neighbor.... Spent much of a summer doing nothing but trying to dig these up. Didn't work.

Similar to ken, I now cut them back to about 2 inches above ground, and then hack them with a knife, through the middle, at least with a cross-cut, if not three, depending on size. And then drizzle roundup. For the really large ones, a piece of rerod stuck down through the pith, and then circled around some, leaves a good cavity for pouring in the round-up.

There will still be sprouts that come up in the vicinity of the plant, from the side roots. Zap them, too.

And, Ken, the 'food' references on this one come from the fact that the earliest sprouts of this plant in the spring can be eaten, when cooked. And in areas and times when *any* fresh edible in spring is gold, they were worth it. When the plant is more than a sprout, it becomes less and less edible. And the roots aren't.

Doesn't mean we want it growing, and spreading by seed and by root, in our gardens.

    Bookmark     September 7, 2011 at 8:14PM
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wieslaw59

The poop of the birds eating the berries is the same colour as the berries, and can make a real mess if it hits your laundry.

    Bookmark     September 8, 2011 at 5:16AM
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wieslaw59

Aconitum carmichaeli is not afraid of sun. Have you checked the stems for fungi? Have you tried to dig it up and check what is going on with the roots? Slugs can it the roots.

    Bookmark     September 7, 2011 at 8:05PM
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hostaholic2 z 4, MN

Hops can also be deadly to dogs, just in case you have a furry friend.

    Bookmark     September 6, 2011 at 10:31PM
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

It's a very good question :-) I always try to keep in mind both the growth habits and any pruning requirements before combining vines. As a rule, I will not combine any very aggressive vine with a less aggressive one....the more aggressive one always wins, usually to the detriment of the lesser. I'd consider hops to be on the upper end of aggressiveness.....any vine that can grow 30' or more in a single season wins my prize for aggressive behavior! Not to mention battling with root spread and associated shoots. Plus, its a scratchy devil to try and prune back in season.

I also will only combine clematis with other clematis with similar pruning requirements. It just simplifies things so much.

AFA hops being dangerous to dogs, that has only been established with certain breeds (namely greyhounds) and only if a reasonable quantity is ingested. In fact, extract of hops is a common ingredient in a joint pain relief medication used by veterinarians so can't be all that toxic. A golden hop vine and a previous pet Cocker spaniel did not get along well however.....the raspy and amazingly fast growing vine stems would grab at her soft coat and tangle her up so that she couldn't make her way back inside. I'd have to go out with my shears and rescue her -- THAT'S when I decided to get rid of my hop vine!

    Bookmark     September 7, 2011 at 7:31PM
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harleylady(PNW/USDA 8b/Sunset 6)

I just came back from South Africa and I saw this plant growing and in bloom at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and other places and it is just stunning in person. Flower structure is similar to a Kniphofia and a lovely shade of pink with remarkable wavy-edged foliage, total eye-candy.

    Bookmark     September 7, 2011 at 1:13AM
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echinaceamaniac(7)

Thanks for all the ideas! I just wanted to have a permanent mark showing where the bulbs are planted so I don't dig them up. I'm always digging and moving things around. I dug up a bulb this week while digging. I have dug into a bulb before and damaged it. It would be nice to have something saying, "Don't Dig Me!!!" LOL.

    Bookmark     September 6, 2011 at 10:44PM
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hunt4carl

Mindy -

The muscari marker is sheer genius ! Since I don't need to know WHAT
bulbs are planted in any given spot - I'll recognize them when they show
up - the muscari provide the added bonus of random spots of Spring
color. And, if you really NEEDED to know where a particular group of
bulbs were located, you could always identify them with "color-coded"
muscari - blue, purple, white, pink, yellow - just remember to take notes
so you will know what each color represents !

Carl

    Bookmark     September 6, 2011 at 11:14PM
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Montauk daisiesTalk to me about Montauk daises - pros, cons. Thanks!
Posted by mxk3(Zone 6 SE MI) September 5, 2011
3 Comments
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gazania_gw

Be aware that deer will snack on the new growth in spring. That works for me, because I always cut the new spring growth back by about 1/2 when it has reached about 14 to 18 inches. Bambi helps. I just need to even it up. Bambi lets it alone when the new spring growth matures. I do like the deep green leathery leaves that, as said above, are attractive all the growing season. It is not evergreen however. The plant becomes woody with age, but covers it's legs well with foliage in early spring. Mine is not showing any sign of budding up yet, but it is still early.

It does reseed some and I have moved these seedlings to other places and they do well in my somewhat ammended clay soil.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 7:50PM
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rusty_blackhaw(6a)

I've seen these for sale locally. I was under the impression that they bloomed late enough so that heavy frost could stop the show prematurely in upper zone 6 and further north. I'd still take the chance except that after a good season of Shasta daisies, I'm not sure I need a lesser show of similar white daisies in fall.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 11:12PM
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loisthegardener_nc7b

Roses grow very well in my clay soil.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 2:39PM
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juliebw(z5 NY)

You can use the search tool in several online catalogs to find plants that will tolerate various conditions, including clay soil. Bluestone Perennials and High Country Gardens are two sources that enable you to do this. Clay does hold nutrients, but in the winter it holds too much water that can cause roots to rot.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 8:28PM
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coolplantsguy(z6 Ontario)

'Pardon Me' is too susceptible to rust IMO. Has anyone tried Earlybird Cardinal ('Endless Heart') yet?

    Bookmark     August 23, 2011 at 7:52AM
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ontnative(5b Can/USDA 4)

Ruby Stella is more of a burgundy (ruby) color than a true red. The flowers are fairly small. However, it does bloom for a long time, about late mid-season. I have two plants and like them. Red Hot Returns is another "redder" rebloomer. It blooms earlier than Ruby Stella.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 8:03PM
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aachenelf z5 Mpls

Well, as far as cold hardiness goes, I'm not sure about the color thing. In the past, I always dug and stored my Crocosmia overwinter. A few years ago, I got tired of that and just left them in the ground thinking they wouldn't make it. They did make it and have been coming back each year. None of mine were red, they were all the yellow varieties. Babylon was one of them. I don't mulch for winter and my zone is technically zone 4, but IMO at least has been behaving more like zone 5 for a good number of years.

Kevin

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 1:09PM
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ontnative(5b Can/USDA 4)

Thanks Kevin for suggesting another hardier-than-usual Crocosmia (besides Lucifer, that is). I have tried half a dozen varieties over the years, but the only one that has survived for me more than 2 yr. is Lucifer. I think I will try Babylon, just to have another colour to go with my Lucifer.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 7:20PM
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nancyd(5/Rochester, NY)

Up here in the Northeast I've had mixed results. I usually have to buy new ones every other year. They are lovely and I must have some in my garden. I would agree starting seed now is too late. Do it in the spring. I deadhead the flowers and they will rebloom for you throughout summer.

    Bookmark     August 31, 2011 at 4:15PM
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loisthegardener_nc7b

Here in the mid-atlantic zone 6, I've had good luck with delphinium belladonna. This one is Cliveden Beauty, and it's survived about 7 winters so far.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 2:32PM
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rober49(5 St Louis)

it does not look like it is dieing, it is dead. i'm in st louis mo. we did have a bad heat wave & a partial drought but i did water regularly. i have had areas where i had no luck growing ajuga & other ares where it became invasive. this patch was invasive. it did not brown out this past winter. it shrank & shriveled but retained it's color. by adequate water i mean enough to keep things alive & not enough to rot roots. everything else in this bed ( cosmos, spireas, creeping phlox, blackberry lilies, & day lilies ) are fine. it could be the severe summer. my vegetable patch was terrible this year.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2011 at 6:31PM
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ctopher_mi

It could be crown rot from Southern Blight, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. Sclerotium develops during hot weather when the soil surface is moist and it will start in one small patch and works its way out. The base will die and the plants can be easily pulled out at soil level. Look carefully and you can often see little mustard seed looking spores but if it is in some sun then the fungus sometimes dries up quickly after the ajuga dies off and you might not notice it as easily as you would with hostas or other plants.

This is a very common and one of the only real problems with ajuga. Spraying with a fungicide to control Southern Blight is highly recommended to stop it. To prevent it in the future it is best to not water when temps get above 90 though a preventive fungicide spray next summer is also a good idea. The combination of heat and moisture triggers the dormant spores so spray now and again next summer before it gets hot. Ajuga can come back from drought but not from this fungus.

Hope that helps.

Chris

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 12:17PM
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crackingtheconcrete(7a)

Those are fantastic!!! Lol. That must be such fun
I liked the chicken soup and "cheap" hotel, especially. :)

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 10:10AM
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hostaholic2 z 4, MN

Delightful! i think my faves were chicken soup and Chickacide though all were clever.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2011 at 10:33AM
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