13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
In my opinion both C. takesimana and glomerata should be banned or be sold with a BIG BLINKING RED WARNING. Both of them are impossible to remove once they are in the middle of another plant(I don't use chemicals),unless you dig it up and wash the roots, pulling all the pieces of the campanulas out. It took me years to kill C.glomerata(I hope it will not come back). C.takesimana was a little easier to get rid of.
Smilacina racemosa(unbeatable in all respects), Cimicifuga(all of them), Actea , Trilliums, Primula elatior, Geranium phaeum album, Podophyllum, Lilium martagon, Anemone nemorosa, Kirengeshoma palmata and koreana, Rodgersia, Brunnera,Uvularia, Disporum flavens, Gentiana asclepiada, Veratrum album and nigrum, Clematis macropetala, Clematis alpina, Meconopsis cambrica, Asiatic lilies(but fewer flowers), Oriental lilies.
Combination of all these plants will provide flowers through the whole season in heavy shade.
All the above plus Anemones will give you blooms in the fall, too. I have mostly Honorine Joubert, but there are lots from which to choose.
Astilbe really like moisture or they fry, even in shade. The ones near my bird baths do best because I dump the water every day when I put in clean. Hosta are addictive and I think I will never have enough.
I am quoting from a different post here on Garden Web...
"Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no �resistance� to azadiractin. "
In addition to cutting my yarrows back before bloom, I *always* cut them back after they bloomed, and generally got a second flush of flowers out of them.
BTW, They're yarrows, the "thyme" of the flowering perennial bed. Don't worry about abusing them. They can take it, pretty much, whatever "it" is. I suspect your could probably mow those puppies and they'd still come back and look good.
The circular grow-through rings are either tomato cages or peony rings (probably the latter :)).
I too started with only a couple of plants a few years ago. Do not deadhead if you want more plants. Also, deadheading doesn't help because they will bloom en masse and each plant will bloom once only. Later in the summer, you might get the odd flower popping up.
My experience has also been that the plants will gradually disappear over the summer. At first I thought that the plants had died, but they returned in greater numbers the following year. However, I don't know what cultivar I have and maybe not all cultivars behave this way.
If you want to move the plants together, I think you should do so right after they finish blooming.
All cultivars of Campanula glomerata have a running habit, and they are impossible to remove once they are inside a clump of another plant. You'll have to dig it up and wash all the roots , pulling even the smallest roots of the campanula out. Otherwise it will come back. In my opinion it should be forbidden or should be sold with a warning.
hmmm, one year it seemed to bloom all summer. not since them. perhaps it is the water. i'll try next year.