13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Yes, daylilies would suit your purpose. If they get weed-wacked a bit or even mowed once in a while, they will be fine. You could throw columbine seeds out there for earlier blooms. Zinnia seeds might be desirable. One or more milkweeds might do well for you. Heavy seeders are ones I would go for.

Whatever you consider, investigate its' tolerance to salt since this ditch probably gets salted from the street run-off - if your road gets plowed/salted.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 3:22PM
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wieslaw59

I don't think scabiosa and sidalcea would like to have 'wet feet'

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 8:39PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Around here they bloom until frost. Another long blooming (until frost) geranium is Dilys--this vines out like Rozeanne, but is very dense and really acts as a groundcover. Like Rozeanne, the stems do not root on the ground.

    Bookmark     June 17, 2008 at 6:33AM
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camjan

Would this be a good plant to trail down a small retaining wall in full sun? Its a long retaining wall so if something else would be better I'd appreciate your input. Can I split this after a season or two?

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 4:21PM
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

tip it out of the pot.. and find out if it is severely root bound

and let us know ... or better.. give us a pic of that

it has to be a water issue .. so you are either not watering enough .. or the roots are having problems ...

tell us about how you water it .. how big it is in relation to the pot .. and how the roots look

ken

ps: the other option is that it simply hates you ... so get rid of it..

    Bookmark     July 21, 2011 at 4:10PM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Totally agree with Ken. Usually store-bought plants are in dire need of repotting when you buy them. If all you've done is look at yours, it's probably pretty bad-off.

The soil may also have become so dry that it's hydrophobic. Try setting the pot in a saucer of water for a few hours. If all of the water disappears, keep adding more until it stops disappearing. Repotting can help fix this, too. Stay away from peat as potting soil.

The expression "fresh as a daisy" isn't meaningless. Individual daisy flowers don't last long - a day or two. Cutting off dead flowers is a daily task if you want these plants to look good. Next year, you might prefer the daisies in the ground and something more tidy in your pot(s).

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 3:59PM
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

there are roughly 180 species within the genus according to wikipedia.. that supreme source.. lol ...

without a fuller latin name.. its hard to give you any specific information ...

what mail order source did you use??? one of the better ones.. or a bargain shop

june planting is on the far side of proper planting time.. and sometimes.. obtaining good stock ... but it should be within the realm of OK .. with proper tlc ....

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

    Bookmark     July 21, 2011 at 12:22PM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Perennials don't usually do much above-ground their first year. Water if they wilt. They are busy growing roots for now.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 3:53PM
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ford8nn(z4IL)

Full sun watered daily, M'gro potting soil, 10 x 10 x 4" rarely, if ever, dries out much. wood is western red cedar.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2011 at 10:31AM
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Tiffany, purpleinopp GardenWeb, Z8b Opp, AL(8B AL)

Let it get more dry between watering. Verbena doesn't like to be wet all the time.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 3:51PM
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flora_uk(SW UK 8/9)

Those are the seed pods of something in the Brassica (cabbage) family. Could be kale, broccoli or any number of similar things. There would have been 4 petalled yellow flowers before the pods.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 12:56PM
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gardenweed_z6a

Depending on how much sun the area gets, here are a few low-maintenance suggestions that might at least get you started:

- Carex 'Ice Dance'/Japanese sedge grass - variegated green/white
- Hosta 'Dream Weaver' - variegated blue-green/cream
- Aquilegia/Columbine 'Tower White'
- Alchemilla mollis/lady's mantle
- Heuchera/coral bells 'Snow Angel' - variegated green/white mottled foliage
- Hemerocallis/daylily 'Ice Carnival' or 'New Falling Stars'
- Brunnera macrophylla/Siberian bugloss 'Jack Frost'
- Hellebore/Lenten rose
- Persicaria virginiana/fleeceflower
- Dicentra eximia/fern leaf bleeding heart
- Lobelia siphilitica/great blue lobelia
- Weigela 'White Knight'

I have these plus many others growing on the mostly shaded north side of my house, among them blue hydrangea but there are white hydrangeas available as well.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2011 at 3:57PM
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oliveoyl3

Remember to plant evergreens. I don't know what is EV in your zone. Euonymous fortunei 'Emerald Gaiety' varigated green/white might brighten up that spot. It can be a groundcover or climb up a trellis, but it's very slow growing.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 12:45PM
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

coated with some rooting powder

===>>> first off.. have you ever read the instructions... most indicate to DUST the piece ... and blow off all excess ... there can be a whole world of difference between a dusting and a coating ...

second .... TIMING is one of the more precise things associated with rooting material .... some plants require new fresh growth.. others older material .. and this would be the prime consideration of when your odds will increase ... it is not really a function of when you break a piece off.. rather than the right piece.. in the right season ...

then once you get past TIMING .... you have to master all these things:

media
humidity
light
sterilization
etc, ad nauseum

as noted.. humidity on a plant with no roots is probably the most important.. since it will have to adsorb all the water it can get while it starts growing roots to do the job ..

all that said.. i am excited by your enthusiasm .. and propagation is a very good way to increase the bounty of your garden ... but it goes way beyond breaking off some pieces and stabbing wildly at success... been there done that.. and suffered the odds you have ... lol ..

below is a picture of a little .. CHEAP.. setup for rooting things ... i sterilized everything with bleach or heat [including the media as soil holds too many negatives] .. in the proper season for conifers in this case .. made the proper cut.. dusted with rooting hormone.. and placed them on a heat mat under lights for 3 months ... 25% success rate ... in your case.. just put the tent in a bright but fully shaded area .. and see what happens ...

ken

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 8:43AM
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plantmaven(8b/9a TX)

Large soda bottles work well as mini greens houses. I cut the bottom off and set them over the potted cutting. If it starts getting too moist, I just tip the bottle to the side a tad.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 10:16AM
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lotzmoore1292_yahoo_com

I'll have to remove my montauk daisy plant and transplant it. When is the best time to take it out of the ground and transplat?

    Bookmark     March 3, 2011 at 2:12PM
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piamachi_yahoo_com

I'm thinking about starting with three plants in a seaside area with a fair amount of wind, not much rain[but lots of fog], intense Summer sun, sandy soil with rabbits and deer lurking in the wings. Any suggestions?

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 8:36AM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Well, folks, if you don't want plants to reseed, don't let them!!! Just cut them back before the seed is set. It's simple and it's what gardeners do! It's called tending your garden.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 6:17AM
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wieslaw59

Basically I agree with laceyvail. But in cases like Polemonium caeruleum or Tradescantia it would be too much work. It would involve removing individual flowers, and I don't think they are worth the trouble.

    Bookmark     August 1, 2011 at 6:30AM
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oliveoyl3

I don't know exactly what happened to her Cotinus.

If helps here's a pic of ours right now...

I had pruned out the largest stem to the ground early spring as suggested by the nursery when I purchased it last fall at 80% off in good health in a 20 gal pot.

The part I cut was 1 1/2 thick" & 3' tall. The remaining part was only 1/2" thick, so younger growth & I decided to leave it. I planted the bed quite dense with perennials & also included annuals like snapdragons, lunaria, & bachelor buttons. I won't need those next year.

My notes on the smoke bush (don't remember from whom):

To get the best foliage color out of a purple-leaved smokebush. Early each spring, cut the shrub back to within a foot of the ground. The technique -- called stooling -- may seem drastic, but the payoff is nearly immediate: lush and large-leaved four-foot pillars of deep wine reds or chocolate purples, depending on the cultivar you buy.

Of course, if you do whack back the shrub, forget about the smoke. By removing the current season's woody growth, you've nuked the flowers (and therefore the silklike hairs on the spent floral plumes that give the plant its common name). For a smoking bush, just let it grow.

And, might I add, grow. The shrub resents pruning (as opposed to stooling) and will develop gangly, whiplike stems to spite you if you try to keep it small.

Coppicing or partial coppicing yields a fresh, graceful, manageable plant, while heading back the entire plant partway will produce a congested mass.

Here is a link that might be useful: pruning guide

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 10:44PM
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joycewwct

I join in the suggestion of Rudbeckia Herbstone one of my favorite plants. Over the years the clump gets a bit wider but it is basically a tall vertical plant 5 to 7 ft tall. It does not need staking. It blooms for me from late July into November with a bit of deadheading, lovely yellow reflexed daisies. Normally no pests or diseases.

    Bookmark     July 7, 2011 at 8:11PM
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wieslaw59

Helianthus Capenoch Star does not flop and is clump forming but it grows rather fast. Recently it was realized that most plants sold as Capenoch Star are actually another cultivar(imposter). In most places it is classified as H.decapetalus.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 7:47PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Except for flora, no one from a mild climate responded. I had it in a front garden in a rental on the Monterey bay in California. As a last resort I removed all the bedding plants and set up a screen with 1/2 inch hardware cloth and with a shovel ran all the soil through it. I still did not get all the small bulblets, but most of them. By watching very closely in the next two years I was finely through with them. If you want to know if they are aggressive, the answer is yes. Al

    Bookmark     May 18, 2011 at 11:22PM
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wieslaw59

Lucifer is also aggressive in Zone 7 in Denmark. But this winter only 1 clump survived(flood)

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 6:51PM
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marquest(z5 PA)

Maybe I do not get brown leaves because it is in a bit of shade. I have it growing under the variegated weigela.

    Bookmark     May 4, 2011 at 9:13PM
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wieslaw59

I have Alexander in full sun, and it does not burn because of the sun if watered properly. I've had it for many years and like it more and more.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 6:39PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

From underground? Voles.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 6:47AM
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shelleyh(z5 NY)

I think you may be right. It could be voles.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2011 at 6:28PM
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