13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
They really do not get any water, and they really do live in barely altered limestone rubble over limestone marl. I imagine it like the limestone hills of greece. But those soils have been ( I imagine) fertilized by some fairly historic volcanic plumes.
Gaillardia, Rudbeckia (not BES varieties), platycodon are all losers for me. The first two I plant as annuals (if I plant them at all), the last one is a lost cause. A recent disappointment for me has been two tall veronicas I lost from the winter. Not sure what the deal with that is.
yes, I thought I was congratulating someone else, not Nancy Ondra. If I were to write a warning it would be ¨No, you probably cannot this design on the first try!"or ¨Beware delusions of grandeur¨ ör ¨Cannot be duplicated if you hold a full time job¨
The garden I inherited was filled with oxeye daisies. I used to love them but now I loathe them. They have no boundaries and grow right over other young perennials and if I don't dig them up they overpower them. Such a hassle to remove. I have been working on this garden for over 2 years and I am still fighting them constantly. I honestly wouldn't go there unless you are going to let things run wild and don't care about growing much else.
My shasta daisies are much better behaved, and just as pretty. Granted more expensive.
Plants are living organisms and as such, they are subject to various issues which can affect their appearance. The key is in knowing when this not typical appearance is something to be concerned about. I diagnose plant issues daily as part of my job and the leaves of this bleeding heart would not cause me any concern. It is not a magnesium deficiency - this would show up on the lower leaves first and show as a pale coloring and interveinal chlorosis.
This just looks like some slight damage on the emerging foliage - it could be environmental (frost or other cold weather), mechanical or perhaps insects, like the aphids referred to above.
Annette, I hear ya on the landscape cloth! Previous homeowners had it everywhere and while I'm sure it did work for a year or two, it just becomes a tangled, torn up mess after a few years. Like you said, all the roots get tangled up in it and it becomes difficult to remove (while no longer blocking weeds whatsoever!).
I find 'Chocolate Chip' does a pretty good job at suppressing weeds and think it will work well for you in the azalea bed. I like that it seems to do well in varying amounts of light. The only weed that I have issues with 'Chocolate Chip' is ground ivy (Glenchoma hederacea) because it manages to work its way into the clump. But that is mostly my fault for not edging the beds.
Wondering what sort of hellebores you are referring to? If it is the tricky H.Niger, you are not alone in struggling with this picky hellebore. The Europeans (H.lividus, H.argutifolius) can also be fussy (although H.sternii, a corsican hybrid is hardier). The indestructible H.orientalis, on the other hand or the common H.foetidus are easier, as are (surprisingly), some of the Ericsmithii and Thibetanus types (although, noting your zone (belatedly), I probably wouldn't chance it on anything other than the reliable lenten roses, orientalis and near relatives.
I generally remove the old leaves before flowering (to get rid of the unsightly leaf blotch and they do rather prefer an alkaline, reasonably well drained soil - winter wet is a bit of a killer.
If you are referring to the Christmas Rose (H.Niger), put yourself out of misery and get a tougher, hardier species. Life is too short to fuss with plant divas.
Well, my goodness, I can't remember when I've received so much in the way of thoughtful, detailed, and helpful comments to a post on the Gardenweb. I've copied the entire thread to a document I can and will refer to often. Thank you all.
(Meanwhile I've noticed a whole forum devoted to the hellebore, which I will check out in due course).
I think I now have what I need to go into Round Three: buying new plants, replacing some soil, mounding in some cases, eliminating the soggy shredded leaves but keeping the marsh hay (which is wonderful stuff: very light, porous, and forgiving—often a life-saver in MN winters without sufficient snow cover, such as the one we just endured; the hellebores weren't the only victims.
Again, thank you.
Gary
I pretty much ignore them! They are in mostly bright? shade, some sun midday. Remember, that clump has been there 15 years, so slow to multiply for me. The clump is growing in Lamium (dead nettle) and disappears by July. It is up and blooming every spring without fail. Nice to hear everyone like it!
Sherry
Sherrygirl, that is gorgeous! I have the double and the single, but I think this one might be Tennessee form, which I just recently stumbled across and ordered. After seeing your picture, I'm so glad I did! Thanks for sharing. Beautiful clump you have there.
The great majority of my Echinaceas (close to 50 plants) were grown from seed (including "Cheyenne Spirit" and "Prairie Splendor" and almost all of them have reappeared this spring (late March/beginning of April is when the first leaves emerge here). By contrast, the few potted named varieties I've bought (on sale, thankfully) either have lasted a season or two or never came back up the year after I planted them (I do have 3 healthy "Pow Wow Wild Berry" that I bought for $5 or less each last September and which sprouted healthy clumps this spring).
My take thus far is that there are hardiness issues with at least some of the pricey named varieties.
Here's the link to that thread.
Also, if you go up into the top bar where it says 'Search in Gardenweb', type in Echinacea (the scientific name for coneflower) and wait a second, one of the options that pops up is to search for the term in the perennials forum only. Try that and you will get a lot of threads. One issue that comes up frequently is that many of the recently released varieties, except for most of those in the pink and white color range, may not be particularly winter hardy, so if you mostly have yellow and orange types, they may have succumbed.
Thanks so much - the search advice is very helpful! And I hadn't known that about the color-related hardiness, that's very useful to know also. Thanks!