13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials

Thank you!

That explains a number of things about Corydalis solida.

I much prefer the red to the purple (wild type?).

I'm assuming cultivars like 'George Baker' grow from corms and that they seed.

The latter features present problems if one ever wants to remove, restrict or reduce Corydalis solida.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I appreciate the ideas. Now to decide. :)

One more suggestion, a white variety of Calamintha nepeta. Long blooming, happy in full sun, millions of tiny flowers.

Yes - Tussilago farfara. Coltsfoot

Thanks for the quick replies. No other perennial is even close to being in bloom. It shows it as being invasive in some areas. I never noticed it till this year.

bumping this up.. since someone asked about hoses

ken

As gldno1 was quick to say, an (English-style) spade not a (Central European-style) shovel, at least with our growing conditions.

I find long-wooden-handed trowels far more useful (including much easier to use) than those with short handles.

lol! Too late for me - already clicked. I will add more E.'s

Like gardengal there are times when I just want to explore an entire genus. It is Sanguisorba obtusa albiflora. There are so many beauties in this genus, I grow many of them and there are plenty of new intros coming onto the market.

The hosta is 'El Nino'. It is a favorite for many of us who grow a lot of hostas.

Thanks, P. I have Sanguisorba 'Pink Elephant' that was planted last Fall. It's leafing out now! Looks nothing like yours, of course! Need to get more foliage plants.
El Nino is sweet!

Nice to see more people are finally getting some spring weather. Ours started early so the crocus and first daffodils are over already. Of course, we're getting snow tonight. :-/
American Robin having a drink.

Hellebore

Very pretty SS.

I'm a bit diffident about Robins with their focus on worms.

Still they do start by eating mountain ash berries in spring here and I suppose with all that organic matter we do have lots of worms.

Sorie6, I bet the type you have where you are , if they are tall is L. pycnostchya , or L. squarousa ( more segmented), I find this site good for learning about the species that are natural to your area and its conditions. Seams like there is a Liatris for anywhere in the states.

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/search.php?start=0&pagecount=10

Yes, years ago I didn't realize how widespread tthe genus is, within North America.

I LIKE that cardboard box idea. I am going to steel it for my oak. I also have used tire Planters under my oak. I plant Phlox pilosa under my oak. It spreads., But the light is not an intense shade.

if the goo is labeled for this as a proper use.. knock yourself out ... dont take any guilt trip over such ...

IMHO .. a few inches of dirt is NOT going to kill nor harm this tree ... crikey.. 95% of its roots are probably way beyond the spot you are working ..

but that said.. ITS A TOTAL WASTE OF MONEY ... to buy the dirt ... as i swear.. within minutes.. the maple will have grown feeder roots into it.. to re-establish its dominance... you are not going to fool this bat turd with a little paper or card board ...

if you want to TRY ... just dig out small holes.. in native soil .. bare root your plants.. insert.. and water the devil out of them until they have a chance to compete with the monster ... ALWAYS broadcast water.. and NEVER fert just the babe ... else guess where the tree will grow new feeder roots .. which will choke out your plants ...

the idea is that you are trying to fool the tree.. into not knowing you are trying to plant other stuff under it ... and with the experience of growing 1650 hosts under trees ... i kinda have some experience with such ...

since i have the generic RU ... i would spray now... wait a few weeks.. to see what i missed ... [mostly because the grass isnt even greening yet in MI] ... then respray.. and just cover with 3 or 4 inches of good bark chunks ... the extra inch.. so that when it settles .. i will have the requisite 2 to 3 ... you can.. immediately.. plant in the dead grass .. [do try not to walk thru your killer.. get your shoes all wet with such.. and then walk across lawn you want to keep.. been there done that ... and with a garden tractor .. weeks later.. wondering what the heck all those lines in the lawn were.. lol]

and anything that pokes thru i would spot spray with a windex type hand spraying during the growing season ...

again .. the added soil.. is a waste of time and money.. and will only stimulate the tree to attacking whatever you plant in it ...

ken

Thanks, peren.all! I'll try it this year-- I'm always afraid of hacking into it and committing myself to another three months of ugly.

I found this thread through a Google search for Junior Walker. I planted it last year, and it didn't do much then, but it is looking beautiful now. I wonder how well it will hold up to our sometimes scorching summers. Didn't flop last year and not flopping now. Nice lavendar colored flowers, not muddy, but not neon. I was googling for some advice about care. I'm thinking that I should shear it back after the spring flush; does that sound right to those of you with experience with Nepeta?

Mine come out at different times, the time depends on the type. I wouldn't dig them up this early. Just cut it back to the ground & clean out debris so you don't have to look at a mess of stuff around dead stems if thats the problem. You can always buy new ones but the bigger more established ones seem to me like they will survive next winter better. Some of mine sprouted from the stems, others from below ground and some are still not showing signs but probably will, one year the yellow ground cover kinds that are commonly sold here waited until mid May. Sorry I can't name mine, they are from several sources and Farmers Market just sells them labeled as 'hardy lantana'.

samnsarah: I love your sprout pics! How exciting! I knew the pic of the blooming ones was from last year, as I remember seeing it last year and admired them then too. :-)

Transplant shock is all that is. Once you plant it in the ground give it a nice haircut and I'm sure it will take off nicely! Also try to take all the new soil with it so as not to disturb the roots. Good luck :)

I must say that the one in the blue pot looks better than the one in the grey. Please let every one know if the gaura in the grey pot gets better. The grey one doesn't look like transplant shock to me. But still could be something else and grow well for this point on.

I've only had to viruses that I know of in my plants. Aster Yellows and Tobacco Mosaic Virus that wiped out my ligularias. I'd just always rather err on the side of caution.

Tex, You have your vision of the CA Bay Area right- it can be nice and warm and foggy up there in San Francisco in the winter and very cold and windy in the SUMMER. Bring a warm jacket! Really! It's the ocean influence causing that.

We are in the South Bay, 50 miles down the coast from S.F. in a wide valley and we roast in summer and we also worry about fires and where will we get enough water?

At the same time, half an hour away over the low western mountain range by the ocean, everyone is cooler and enjoying the beaches so we can escape the heat there. Problem is, we eventually have to come back.

This year we had ZERO rain in December and finally a few days of good downpours but its been sunny 70s and 80s since and I will soon have to begin watering again. Very strange weather. Min

I leave a lot of my perennials dead stems intact over the winter to create some interest. I do this with my sedums, mums, and lantanas. Speaking of lantanas, how are use doing? All of my Sonset Lantanas have returned.

if the area is wet, you need plants that like/tolerate wet soil--there are a fair number of them, both shrubs and perennials.

Here is a page from the Missouri Botanical Garden on problems with yews including a few that are root related.