13,520 Garden Web Discussions | Perennials
I am a Hardy Geranium addict here in Ireland.! One that I got within the last couple of years is GERANIUM SCHLECKTERI ; this is an amazing one flowers all Summer long, lovely soft greyish foliage which is still looking great at this time of year.
I wonder if there is a dedicated forum for Hardy Geraniums anywhere ? I was thinking of setting up a Facebook page about them.
Here is a link that might be useful: A small Irish garden
I have a pot with a white mum that has always been completely white, except this year, when some pink has appeared. The pic shows the flower way beyond its prime, but I hope you can still see the pink tinges.
I also have some very dark red mums that turns a rust color which I don't like too much but its in line with the season so I just look the other way
There's no reason to regret starting the thread, its kind of interesting to see the responses. If I was using the words 'half hardy' the sentence would most likely include the word 'here'.
example: Lantana's are only half hardy here in Oklahoma, it helps to mulch. Don't cut the hollow stems back until spring or else water will seep down and cause freeze damage killing the roots.
Another way to put it would be to say they are only 'root hardy' here but sometimes they don't make it. In conversation I usually use the words 'semi-hardy'. Hopefully that is more literarily acceptable.
This simply communicates they are able to make it most years with a bit of common sense care but there's always a bad winter looming out there that could do them in, its not a technical type of term. I can't see how that would be difficult to understand anywhere you live.
After pulling up the Webster definition finally, I am now wondering what 'half-grasses' are. Anyone know?
I actually jumped into this discussion a bit 'half-assed' since I didn't double check 'half-hardy' until floral wrote it wasn't a botanical term.
This post was edited by TexasRanger10 on Tue, Dec 9, 14 at 13:38
Emerogork2--("I wonder why the terms are not always directly associated with a zone range.")
Thankfully most plants are trialed or tested prior to being released to the market, this is how the zones where it will thrive are arrived at.
Most perennials have a set of clear cut zones assigned to them such as Zone 5 to 9, or Zone 3 to 8, or (unfortunate for us) Zone 8 to 10. They can be very successful within those zones only for any number of reasons.
Then there will be plants like Begonias.
Most are sold as bedding plants (these are usually the ones given a half-hardy or tender perennial notation) or house plants BUT there are a few species that can be perennial.
B. grandis Zone 5 (with protection) or 6 to 10
B. pedatifida Zones 7 to 10; trial in colder zones.
The info was written that way since they did not have full info yet OR because some could grow it in Zone 6 and others could not.
This is my second year of gardening. I keep a spreadsheet but I've never actually taken a tally.
Let's see...
10 roses
9 mini roses
5 hydrangeas
1 peony
12 hostas
47 perennials
2 rose of sharon hibiscus
23 allium bulbs
So... 109 plants? Oh gosh. I shouldn't have done that...
Centaurea comes to mind. These are lower growing and come in some fabulous colors, most of them featuring purple. They will handle the soil, but DO need to have decent drainage. Sand & clay can be a good mixture as the sand encourages the soil to drain. They will also tolerate full sun to partial shade. Echinacea is another thought, mainly because they are a favorite, though they really need full sun. Here's a place to really compare which gives the moisture, soil requirements, bloom times and heights so you can plan to plant blossoms that will not only come back every year but will provide flowers throughout the whole season while looking gorgeous together. Lots of pictures here! :). Hope this helps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Perennial flower pictures
Echinaceas are quite tricky in our climate. They often don't survive the winter and many people consider them transient occupants of the garden rather than tough perennials. Nor do they self seed much as the soggy Autumns are not conducive to seed ripening. The problem with our winters is that they don't get a good deep freeze and dormancy. The relatively mild wet conditions don't suit them.
tsugajunkie, Now that's just too cool.
I've had a bit of success with plants people say can't or shouldn't be grown and I stand corrected on poinsettias, yours look great. Its surprising what a bit a experimenting can do, what works that shouldn't work and it is definitely fun as you say. Sometimes its all about the challenge.
I would've thought people in the nursery/greenhouse trade love poinsettias, the ultimate throwaway plant that needs to be repurchased every year.
For an alternative that's not as showy but is much, much easier to carry on from year to year, consider the Jamaican poinsettia.*
I have one that is currently displaying a single set of bright scarlet bracts (usually they don't appear until later in winter). Fun succulent to grow.
*do a search for "Jamaican poinsettia" or "Euphorbia punicea" to see more and better photos (GW blocks some of the best links).
Um, I see no-one has come up with a definitive answer yet...so here is my two-pennorth.
I routinely propagate phlox paniculata by taking root cuttings - small 1inch bits of root which I lay on the potting mix, cover with more jix and fine grit and leave (outside)over winter. By early spring, there are signs of sprouting in most of the cuttings...so I suggest you leave your pots alone, put them somewhere where they will be undisturbed - maybe adding a protective cover if you feel they are at risk from digging pests and hope that the roots have retained some regenerative power. Whatever, there is no point in worrying about this...and certainly not worth repotting or planting out. Just keep your fingers crossed - life is very tenacious and hopefully, there will be signs of growth next year.
Mine too, Flora - total slime...but hey, got 34 willows, 14 roses, 30+ ash seedlings (in wild optimism), 24 garlic cloves and 3 astrantias in the ground today. Got back from Norfolk and now exhausted...but will have to drag myself round to clients to discuss some welcome work tomorrow (bloody landscaping though).
Almost everything is dormant now here in SC Kansas. My Diablo Ninebark and Summer Wine Ninebarks are turning a dark shade of red and will probably stay that way until the end of December. It's supposed to be 34 degrees Monday and then 57 next Friday. In January and February we will finally get down to the teens, but then back up into the 50's by March. That's KS for you.
There is a little possibility that your daffs may be blind next spring as they really need a much earlier planting to get their roots going....but no worry, I have bought cheap (and late) daffs before now - they will come good the following year.
Don't use a spade - get a decent long-handled bulb planter. I did 3000 of the buggers last year and it would have been a nightmare without a decent bulb-planter (although it was still a bit of a 'mare, just not such an extreme one).
Yes, have also attempted the 'plant them where they land' method...frankly annoying as they land in clumps...or too far apart...and anyway, when planted, even in rows, they look perfectly fine once they are up, as long as the amounts are generous.
Ramped down to 750 this year
Camp: I've planted bulbs quite late in the season and they've always bloomed just fine. As long as the ground can be worked, the bulbs can be planted. Referring to larger bulbs that are planted deeply (e.g. daffodils, tulips, hyacinths) - in my area, it's going to be a while before the ground freezes to that depth, if it even does (some years it doesn't). I would imagine the problem would be with the smaller bulbs planted close to the surface (e.g. crocus).
A very pretty little tree, Catkin. You might be interested in this thread over on the Trees Forum.
Here is a link that might be useful: Larch discussion
Thank you!
I grow mine outside in Austin winters. If I get a real harsh cold front it goes away but they are growing and blooming now. I let them seed themselves and they come up every year.