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Here's a great thread about Poseidon and Plum Perfect:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2808456/poseidon-and-plum-perfect-roses
I'll quote some great information on Poseidon that Chris Pellett posted:
"Poseidon in our numerous trials has never reached a height of 6 feet. What we generally see is that it is about 3-4 feet tall as an own root. On multiflora root stock it is somewhat taller reaching about 4 feet- perhaps a bit taller. There are bushes being sold on Dr. Huey rootstock but I do not have these in trial. I saw them in a production field at harvest time and these were about 3.5 feet tall. Poseidon is what we term an upright form which means it is taller than it is wide. We typically see it as being 2.5'- 3' wide in our trials. Know that we prune our shrubs later winter to about 2.5-3 feet which certainly affects the height in the summer. My experience on the issue of the flowers fading is that in very warm weather there is some fade but not extreme. We have had some flower suppression at temperatures over 95 F but it returns to blooming quite well as soon as the temperature drops. The color is a grey-lavender which is one of the rarest colors. It does have some red guard petals in bud. It was awarded an ADR so the disease resistance is quite good. We think it is quite cold hardy although I am not sure about it surviving a USDA Zone 4 - I tend to think this might be beyond its range of hardiness."

That is a really nice looking picture of a Poseidon own root. I would suggest that you pinch the top shoot now to encourage basal and side shoots to develop. I know this is painful, but by the end of the season you will end up with a well formed bushy plant and more blooms. In the nursery when we plant own root we pinch the young plants quite a few times to encourage branching and good shrub formation.
If you are in south Florida I agree that you may have better luck with the rose on fortuniana root stock as it will grow better in the sandy soils and will be more resistant to nematodes. James Mills sells a variety of roses on Fortuniana and I believe he also is growing Poseidon now. He has a mail order company and also sells his roses at different meetings of the American Rose Society.

I spoke to our local extension office and she said she knows of no serious outbreak in this county. However, I am checking every morning for deformed leaves, bud damage, etc. Speaking of the chili thrips, I searched for chili thrips in this garden forum and found an interesting post on various things to use for treatment of the chili thrips. Suggestions are varied, but there was a post that caught my attention wherein someone from the Houston Rose Society (2010) suggested an ant killer named Surrender as being effective because it contains 75% acephate and that ingredient is good for controlling the chili thrips. I use this ant killer myself and because it comes in powder form, I started out sprinkling it over the mounds but the ants just moved on to another location. Then I decided to use it in liquid form and used 1 tsp to a quart of water and put in a small spray bottle, first disturbing the mound and spraying directly on the ants. It works so much better this way and costs $14.85. Plan to use should I encounter chili thrips. Have you heard of this?

Never used Surrender. I had already moved out of FL. when folks started using it. When I lived in Port St. Lucie I used Orathine after Chili Thrips almost destroyed my garden. No one knew what they were or how to control them back in the early 2000's. It was trial and error. Mostly error.


'Charlotte Armstrong' is a similar color to your second rose. She's about disappeared from commerce. Most photos of her are not true but this one is good.
http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.168623
Take many pics of the various stages as well as noting thorniness, foliage color, date and time of photo. It's a very pretty rose.
Oh, here's another of Charlotte showing a bud and an aged bloom. Does yours look the same?
http://www.justourpictures.com/roses/charlottearmstrong.html

Thanks for the replies.
I know it's a long shot, but thought it would be nice to know what they were.
irisgal, the two links you posted shows 'Charlotte Armstrong' as a red rose, but it seems different sites say it's suppose to be pink?
The main canes on the red one are pretty thorny. It has put out tons of blooms since it was transplanted to a bigger pot about 4-5 months ago. It's definitely a survivor because it was neglected for a while. It keeps growing taller and taller. Blooms are between 4-5". Sometimes you don't even have to be close to it to smell the fragrance. The leaves are more leathery than shiny. The common red roses that the box stores (where this was bought) around here sell seem to be 'Oklahoma', 'Mister Lincoln', and 'Chrysler Imperial'.

From another thread, Emily said she was in Zone 8, Jacksonville, Florida. Emily, your garden is beautiful. You can add your zone to your profile or your name if you wish, so that it appears when you make a post. I hope to see more. I live on a very small property in California, so I admire your wide open spaces.


Oh wow Kublakan, Thanks. I totally will. What great advice. I'll stop by sometime this week (eeeekk :)
Our Lady does not have big flowers Jack, they are small but they are plentiful. They also hold their form for a good amount of time and last well as a cut flower. As I recall they she also had few bug problems. But I guess that may depend on where you live/put her/how many pests you have in your garden, etc.
Our Lady is one of those roses that gets so full of flowers that you have to stop and ask what kind of rose it is.


Since you want to put them in the ground now is the time to do. You want them to grow those new roots into the soil where they are going to live, not in a pot you're going to take them out of. Besides, those pots they're in are way too small and will be full too soon.
Water the roses very well the night before you want to plant them. When you transplant them dig your holes first and prep them and water them. Then try and just slip the existing root balls out of the pots and into the new holes. Back fill about half way and then water. Fill the rest of the way and water again. Keep them moist but not drowning until they start to get new growth and then fertilize at half strength.

This sounds like an excellent cool weather rose. I took mine out in spite of the fact that it grew really well and quickly because the blooms, few as they are in the heat, fry within five minutes. Planting the right rose for your garden is at least half the battle.









Garden roses are complex hybrids that do not come true from seed. Every viable seed from a particular hybrid x hybrid cross will produce a different variety of rose, and most will be worthless. Breeders discard hundreds of seedlings in order to find one that is worthwhile.
And yes, the image depicted has been faked.
If you want to play with rose seeds, look at roses you pass on the street and pick off old hips that are fully ripe or withering. Online you can find instructions for germinating them.
The usual way to buy roses is as bare-root or potted plants. It's best to buy them from reputable local nurseries, or, for a much wider selection, online/mail order from a reputable grower. If you let us know your approximate location, people here may be able to tell you names of good suppliers for your area.
Browsing books on roses, online and paper catalogues, forums such as this one and the Antique Roses forum, and a website called HelpMeFind/Roses are all good ways to learn more. But best of all is looking at real live roses in public and private gardens, asking their names if not labelled, and looking them up using the sources mentioned above.
Comtesse :¬)