21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Every variety has it's own internal bloom cycle timing so if they're the same variety they would probably have about the same bloom time. That may vary some by location but would probably be fairly close in most cases. If they're purchased in approximately the same size and condition and planted at the same time it stands to reason they would bloom around the same time. If they were purchased at different times they may not sync until the next spring when they would be starting out in the same conditions.

Good point Seil. In my garden I've had Belinda's Dream in various areas all planted on different years and as soon as I say blooms in one, all the others bloomed at the same time. Today I was walking around the yard and I'm taken aback by a red rose. When I look, it's Alec's Red. I keep tending to the garden when I come across another impressive red. Low and behold, the red rose is also Alec's red. I find this fascinating. My wonder, and the reason I posted this, is to learn whether others have had the same experience.



I've noticed that a lot of the newer roses aren't showing up on there too. Or if they do there are no photos. Yet if I Google it photos show up on other places. I'm not sure what the reason is either.
If you have a new release rose please go and put some photos on there for the rest of us. If it's not there you can go to the "missing plant" tab and add it. I agree with Mariannese, it's important!

Since you said you are in SoCal, Otto and Sons in Fillmore (take I5 to the 126 west or 101 to 126 east) has 157 instock and in 5g pots. They are having rose days in a couple of weeks (the post card is around here somewhere) they are pricey, $45 but they often have some kind of deal and the DA pots are pretty nice to reuse. This weekend is Tomatomania
You might want to bring a bigger car/truck....it can be very hard to leave with just one plant. (they have Butterscotch Staked too)


From their data it appears that one has to be very careful not to add too much of the 2 chemicals. This link contains a Molar solution concentration calculator:
http://www.physiologyweb.com/calculators/molar_solution_concentration_calculator.html

I have a big bone to pick with soil tests when they tell you the "soil type" of your soil in a residential setting. A few years back I lived on the eastern side of my state & now I live on the western side of my state. At both locations I tested my soils & received a report that said I had "loam" with very similar compositions. Yet when I dug fence post holes at each location I found 2 extremely different soils. My eastern garden had sticky red clay starting 12' down & that lawn had terrible poor drainage problems in low areas after a rainy spell, sometimes standing water for several days. Post holes in my western garden revealed pure sand at 12" & deeper. No matter how hard it rains here, I & the neighbors never have standing water 30 minutes after the rain stops. The reason for this is that most homes have truck loads of black loam hauled in so your house can have a nice lawn. This is frequently the soil that home owners are testing for their gardens. I strongly encourage you to dig some deeper holes to determine what's underneath the top 4-8" of your lawn. These deeper soils will have an impact on water, organic & nutrient holding capacities and your pH.

Hi wirosarian_z4b_WI,
I removed the top several inches of soil so the sample I sent to the lab was from 4-8 inches deep.
When I bought my condo new in 1972, the flower bed (in the common-area) was 25 feet long by 2 feet wide (50 square feet). Over the years, I've expanded the flower bed into the common-area lawn so the flower bed is now 25 feet long by 18 feet wide (almost 400 square feet).
The condo board said it's OK that the expanded garden is in the common-area but I'm responsible for maintaining the garden (i.e., prune and fertilize the shrubs, weed the garden, etc). The watering is still done by the common-area sprinklers.

I am in the Inland Empire (CA), very, very hot summers! I have a 9 foot patio pergola I would like to train it up. I found the rose available @ RRR and they state it will grow 8-10 feet. I think this might work! Thanks for the inspiration!

I find many of my roses too be prone to disease in the first year. They like to grow like crazy but have a very immature root system. That said am I the only one who's TA was still getting black spot in it's third year. I removed it at the end of that year. Some summers here can be cool where dew is present every night. Add some cloudy wet days and only the most disease resistant of the roses remain clean. I hate powdery mildew more than black spot.
I'll be interested to hear how TA does in it second year. The flowers where so pretty.

I agree with Diane. If the plant is growing already bare rooting it will send it into terrible shock it might not be able to recover from. When it's dormant it doesn't need all the roots to keep it fed and watered so you can go ahead and bare root it and it should be fine.

It's hard to get a good rootball unless you are transplanting from a pot. Therefore, if roses are leafed out, it's a good idea to remove foliage in proportion to the fine roots that are disturbed or lost--maybe half or two thirds. Since not much water is lost from canes, and canes have stored plant energy, I think it's better to prune moderately and then pick off leaves rather than prune the canes very severely. I pick them off from the top down because new growth will come from the upper rather than lower canes. If the rose wilts, shade it with a lawn chair for a while.
At times, I have lost the rootball entirely and transplanted bare root after removing all the foliage. It worked OK. However, it's preferable to transplant during dormancy.
With really large rose plants, bare-rooting is really the only option.

I used to grind up the pellets in my blender, but it got to be too much. Just soak them in water and then they will soften and you can mix in with the potting soil. Just don't add too much or get it too close to the canes. Eve with the meal, it can tend to clump together and you may have to break it up.

I tried this for years with inconclusive results. I used to mix in a cup of alfalfa pellets in every seven gallon pot. To answer Jim's question, as you water your potted roses, the pellets dissolve rather quickly. If you were to dig through the pot after a few weeks you would find pockets of dissolved alfalfa. The problem I found was that it tended to create pockets where things just rotted, and that didn't help the roots. I think that what ever beneficial chemical reaction occurs with the use of alfalfa, it must take place during the fermentation process. Unfortunately, the fermentation process is not good for plants.
For basal breaks I would also try diluting SolPoMag/Epson Salts.

Have you pruned off the dead canes above the green yet? Do that if you haven't. Sometimes pruning will stimulate them. After that you just have to wait. I know that's hard, lol, but it really hasn't been all that warm yet and some roses just need a really good extended period of time of warm weather to jump start them. Snowfire and Pope John Paul II were both always slow to start in the spring and wouldn't budge until it was well into the 70s for some time.

I planted TA here at our home in Central Pa last year but it did not do to well...
I'm going update my thread I started last year on how it does this year... I will spray greencure on its leaves this year if it starts showing signs of PM because it got bad last year. BUT it will NOT get sprayed with anything for BS besides when sprayed with greencure for the PM if needed...
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1652600/thomas-affleck?n=36

I had one and it did well. It was a deer casualty. The only roses that survived the deer were climbers and taller OG roses that were planted on a steep slope. I plan to go to the Celebration of Old roses in El Cerrito in May. They may not even have one, but I am sure I can find something that works.

One problem might be the shortness of the bloom period. Some very warm springs, mine had blooms that came and went in under five days. (Don't blink.)
Then we were in Maine, and someone brought in a Mme Hardy bloom that had had cool temperatures as it grew. It was huge. She said hers bloomed for a month.
I grew it once, but warm springs tempered my enthusiasm.





Hi Hello! I noticed you didn't get a huge response to your Q, and wondered if you might have better luck if you reposted it on the Antique Roses Forum. There's often a wider choice amongst the older roses when disease-resistance, easy-care and great perfume are all important factors.
Your combination of specifications is actually a little tricky, which may be part of the reason for a shortage of suggestions here. For example, good/reliable repeat bloom PLUS rosehips is not very common - off the top of my head, I can't actually think of ANY climbers or ramblers that do this; and hips often don't set reliably anyway unless there's a chilly winter - being in Australia, I'm not sure if you get that in Alabama. However, there ARE a number of other options for attracting/helping wildlife, so long as you don't use insecticides and other poisons; for example, in Spring some birds may stop by for a tasty snack of aphids, and bees will enjoy single and semi-double flower-types - the kind where you can see the stamens in the middle. Birds will sometimes nest in a big thick rambler, too.
You don't state the size (height and width) of your privacy fence/the area you want this rose to cover - I would suggest adding that, plus the maximum depth out from the fence that's available in this spot. Also, for folks like me (and there are a few of us), if you could give more detailed info on your climate, that would be a great help - your US Zone if you know it, average Summer and Winter temperature range and some indication of when/how much humidity and rain you get (I'm thinking Alabama = fairly steamy!??).
So, my advice is, try posting again on the ARF, including those extra details, and I'm sure the combined brains of all the crazy rose nuts/experts on there will be able to come up with a great solution for you - perhaps with just a teeny bit of compromise on your full list of specs. They'll also be able to help with any queries you may have about when and where to buy, planting and maintenance of your new baby! Good luck!
Comtesse :¬)
Great, thank you for the suggestions and I'll definitely post in the ARF!