22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I had assumed you got bare root, grafted plants. Green, potted plants are another thing entirely.
You'll have to acclimate them slowly to full sun. The wind is a factor, as well. They've been grown in very sheltered artificial conditions, and have to get used to the real world! They were in an 85 degree greenhouse, high humidity, no wind, then they got shoved in a dark box, taken out and put in cold ground with 40 degree air temps. I'd lose my leaves, too, lol.
The advice cecily gave is good: keep them in filtered sun for a few days, and pot them into larger pots until they form a stronger root system. Keep them moist, not wet. Don't fertilize until you see new growth. Let them get a little bigger, and their chances of survival will increase. I RARELY put roses that small directly into the ground, unless I know they are strong growers. As for the ones you've already planted, like Kippy said, give them a couple of weeks, they might put out new growth. If it's been dry, water; but don't drown them. Without leaves they won't be losing much water.
John
I agree that among the two rose types you mention the Knockouts are the better performers overall in the summers. They bloom more often and have a fuller look. Like MadGallica, I've been underimpressed with the Flower Carpet roses having skimpy growth and sporadic blooming. If you want an easy care low growing bloomer, better options would be the Kordes Vigorosa roses, the Drift series (like Peach Drift), or several low-growing Easy Elegance roses.
Cynthia
I really like my flower carpets but they do set seed and I must dead head for constant bloom. My favorites have been Apple Blossom, Pink and Red. Mine stay healthy with no spray as long as I'm sure to remove any winter damage cane. They have gone down to the crown in the last two winters. My favorite knockouts are Home Run and White Out (which technically isn't a knockout). Both are very healthy here for me. Home run sets seed easily so needs dead headed or bloom will slow down. They also die to the crown in the nastiest winters.
Would like to add that I have two Kordes roses that were tip hardy this year. Little Chap and Innocencia Vigorosa.
Oh my goodness, there are so many suggestions we can give :D I adore my New Dawns, keeping in mind that they are thorny monsters, because their blooms are just so gorgeous :) And for me, I use them in a ton of shade. I've never seen a rose bloom in as much shade as they take.
Some complain about lack of re-bloom in their New Dawns, but my clone does great. I do prune the ends often enough that I have both old and new wood, so that might matter. It's also a sport of a once-blooming rose, so maybe some revert back? Dunno, but if anyone needs cuttings of my clone, no problem :)
For more suggestions, I'd make separate posts describing the situation for the rose for prime spots. Space, sun, even soil type all matter a lot when picking the perfect rose for a spot. And color, scent and kind of bloom, too!
Definitely tell which zone 7 you will be. Mine is sunny, very hot, and humid, whereas the Pacific Northwest is much different. I think we even get colder in the winter, too, and that matters very much in some zones (not usually our sevens :) ).
Wow, sorry Nummy! They should have replaced your rose or credited you. It shouldn't matter where you live. If their rose didn't make it, they should compensate you one way or the other. She told me they would do a one-time replacement. That's all I wanted. If these don't make it, it'll be on me.
I've bought roses from the big box stores that looked like this and revived them. Place the rose in a shady spot (no direct sunlight, but with access to sunlight) and water thoroughly (water saturation to the point of overflow) every night for a week. It'll come up right away. I'd guess the spray played a part, but lack or water and too much fertilizer maybe played a bigger role. Like everyone said, remove the dead/damaged leaves.
I grow nearly all of mine in pots. This year I'll have 26 pots of roses. I aim for a container 17-18 inches deep. I've got HTs, floribundas, and grandifloras in there, and most seem to do well. The trick is keeping them watered daily, as you're their best water source. I'm in zone 7, and in winter move them to a sheltered (though still outdoor) location.
I can vouch for the wonderful diversity of plants offered by SFA. They don't have a lot of roses, but I always buy some. A couple of years ago I got a "Pink Marechal Neil" - whatever that is. It has buds on it now, so will see. Scottsville Rose is supposedly the oldest rose in Texas, was found growing near Marshall. I have 2 - one in the ground and one in a pot with a beautiful arching habit - going to let it bloom on my deck before I plant it [its a once bloomer]. The one in the ground has beautiful foliage - I may pick up another couple of them "just because". There will be all sorts of interesting plants - I must have a Marmalade shrub - that blooms yellow and orange. So much neat stuff - if any of you are nearby, its well worth the effort and time to go! I have been when its raining, that deters no one - very serious plant people go! Plus the azaleas at the nearby Ruby Mize Garden should be in bloom and that is truly a sight to behold! Also in autumn when the Japanese maples turn their brilliant colors.
Judith
Here is Greg Grant's (from SFA) description of R. banksia 'fragrant snowflake': "An intoxicatingly fragrant, delicate, single white Lady Banks rose. A vigorous seedling selected by the late Robert Bayse (breeder of Belinda's Dream) from seed from Italy. He was looking for an easier to root form for a rootstock and for blackspot resistant breeding stock. It's the most fragrant rose I've ever grown."
That is not RRD. It's very normal new spring growth. A lot of people get a little paniced when they see that really red growth but MANY roses' new growth will be very red until it matures and turns green. The leaves are often furled like that until they grow and flatten out also.
I don't see any signs of the excessive and very distorted growth that comes with RRD. RRD growth is usually so tightly packed with vegetation and all bent and curled. Which is why it's called witches broom. The thorns will cover the stems to the point where you can't even see the cane.
This oil is only used when the roses are dormant. Since Japanese Beetles come out in June, it will not stop them. A better preventive for JBs is something called Milky Spore, which you put on your lawn (that is where JBs live in the winter, not in flower beds) and it can kill the grubs. For blackspot, while dormant oil will kill the spores that overwinter, it's likely that other spores will come around during the growing season. Your best bet is to get a spray fungicide to apply regularly to roses to prevent blackspot.
If you are careful with spraying, you should be able to avoid the vegetables.
...as you only want a couple of roses I wouldn't consider that to be terribly crucial.... if they don't succeed...you can always try again....
...if I lived in your area I think I might choose from the Earth Kind list, as they have proven heat and drought tolerance....amongst other good attributes...
Earth Kind selection
Thanks, everybody! I am looking at the selection waiting at our nearest nursery, a block away.
They will be for sale on April 14th.