22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I can vouch for the wonderful diversity of plants offered by SFA. They don't have a lot of roses, but I always buy some. A couple of years ago I got a "Pink Marechal Neil" - whatever that is. It has buds on it now, so will see. Scottsville Rose is supposedly the oldest rose in Texas, was found growing near Marshall. I have 2 - one in the ground and one in a pot with a beautiful arching habit - going to let it bloom on my deck before I plant it [its a once bloomer]. The one in the ground has beautiful foliage - I may pick up another couple of them "just because". There will be all sorts of interesting plants - I must have a Marmalade shrub - that blooms yellow and orange. So much neat stuff - if any of you are nearby, its well worth the effort and time to go! I have been when its raining, that deters no one - very serious plant people go! Plus the azaleas at the nearby Ruby Mize Garden should be in bloom and that is truly a sight to behold! Also in autumn when the Japanese maples turn their brilliant colors.
Judith
Here is Greg Grant's (from SFA) description of R. banksia 'fragrant snowflake': "An intoxicatingly fragrant, delicate, single white Lady Banks rose. A vigorous seedling selected by the late Robert Bayse (breeder of Belinda's Dream) from seed from Italy. He was looking for an easier to root form for a rootstock and for blackspot resistant breeding stock. It's the most fragrant rose I've ever grown."
That is not RRD. It's very normal new spring growth. A lot of people get a little paniced when they see that really red growth but MANY roses' new growth will be very red until it matures and turns green. The leaves are often furled like that until they grow and flatten out also.
I don't see any signs of the excessive and very distorted growth that comes with RRD. RRD growth is usually so tightly packed with vegetation and all bent and curled. Which is why it's called witches broom. The thorns will cover the stems to the point where you can't even see the cane.
This oil is only used when the roses are dormant. Since Japanese Beetles come out in June, it will not stop them. A better preventive for JBs is something called Milky Spore, which you put on your lawn (that is where JBs live in the winter, not in flower beds) and it can kill the grubs. For blackspot, while dormant oil will kill the spores that overwinter, it's likely that other spores will come around during the growing season. Your best bet is to get a spray fungicide to apply regularly to roses to prevent blackspot.
If you are careful with spraying, you should be able to avoid the vegetables.
It LOVES California. I say that because I see very old ones all over - not tended, but still blooming like mad. I haven't seen noticeable disease on any, either. There is one up the street from our house. We just saw it walking back from dinner. It has a Dr. Huey rootstock flower on the bottom of it. I have told the lady who lives in that house how to take off the rootstock several times in the last 5 years. Nothing. My point is, JC must be pretty strong because it is still 95% of that plant.
Jackie
Pot them up and get really good potting soil. Pro Mix has a growth enhancer in it. I potted up six of the nine roses I got from Palantine and they are going gangbusters in the pot. The ones in the ground have new growth, but not as much. Of course it helps that I was able to take them inside during the freeze last weekend. The ones that were planted I was able to cover and they are fine.
Okay thanks guys, mine are now potted up and in my three sided window area. I will bring them outside when it is over freezing for a few days in a row, lol! I am nervous about potting them up although I don't know why. I did use a good potting soil. I guess only time will tell. I potted up my Palatine roses that came in Nov. 2013, wintered them inside and planted them in the ground in spring 2014 and they are fine but I did have one from that batch that didn't leaf out so was a loss (Philatelie) -- ugh, so nervous about these. In pots I have Neil Diamond, Raspberry Cream Twirl Climber, and Rio Samba. I NEED Neil Diamond to make it, I think I am most excited about that one. :)
Andrea
I should add they did not have Bolero that I noticed and I was unimpressed with Grand Dame. I did get a kick out of a lady explaining to her friend how the nursery forgot to pinch off all the extra buds on a florabunda spray so the HT put out the extra buds.
Well my Abe Lincoln is on the opposite end of the spectrum coming from the not so elite Walmart. It did produce 3 beautiful red roses last yr here in zone 5 which was more than I expected for first year purchase. If it recovers from the severe pruning then I plan to regularly spray hot pepper juice around it that hopefully deters the rabbits. I grow hot peppers so supply won't be a problem.
Well, if you wanted to try and save the cane I would recommend taping the wound with some floral tape. That should help protect it. But if you see it's not doing very well then take it off right away to save the plant from the stress of trying to keep it going.
If you can find them locally they are available at Mills Mix with free shipping after a certain amount. Prices are higher locally than what those in southern areas seem to pay at that time it was $25 to $30 for a 50lb. bag. I used to get mine from a place called Country Brothers Supply Store. They did not stock it but would order it for me. Did a lot of calling before finding a place to get the supplies.
If they're on the underside edges of leaves they might also be rose sawfly larvae, don't know what the local name is, but they're a pest. I have the kind locally that lay their eggs into the cane, and they are a tremendous nuisance. The caterpillars are ok, although left unchecked they can defoliate a small bush, but I can mostly let the bluetits and finches deal with them. Generally, I find that bugs that appear in multiples are pests and bugs that appear as singletons are predators.
I am in Southern California -- where the weather is growing hotter and drier.
I grow principally Old Roses, and I have grown many roses up against a south-facing retaining wall, and the only ones that handle it well are very heavily-foliaged. I've had several things cane-burned so badly they gave up and died. We do better with trellissing up against the wall, behind the roses, but it is "iffy." You may do better if you have afternoon shade, but walls are tricky in hot climates.
With the weather getting so much hotter, and watering restrictions coming in, I think we will be growning mostly salvias, along those beds. If anything.
Brightstar, Thinking some more about your plans, I feel your best option might be to contact Heritage Roses in Australia Inc., who have groups all over Australia with a number of regional groups around NSW, including one in Sydney.
Because this is such a challenging/borderline possible situation, I feel what you need is some very specialised advice from locals with both expertise in the sort of roses you want to grow, and the local climate/conditions. From there, you could discuss the microclimate of your particular location and those spots you're planning to put your roses. I would think they would be able to tell you more reliably than we can how they would be likely to do, and/or suggest more suitable alternatives.
I'm not sure if there are any Antique Roses forum members here from NSW - is billyteabag from there maybe, and some others? There may also be a few in Victoria around, and we have Adam in WA, but they may not have detailed knowledge of your sub-tropical Sydney conditions. And a lot of people do 'lurk' without participating much. There may well be many in areas of the US whose conditions would be fairly similar to yours, but since you're planning on quite a large investment here, of time and effort as well as just financial, I think you need to be very sure before you plunge in.
The website for Heritage Roses in Australia is: heritage.rose.org.au and I see there that the co-ordinator for the Sydney group is a lady called Glennis... can't remember her last name.
Please do let us know how you get on, and don't hesitate to pick our brains again here or on the ARF. I hope you'll find some great solutions for your garden, and be able to post us some gorgeous pictures one day!
Comtesse :¬)
I cut mine back in April to about 18-24" inches and then fertilize when I feel fairly certain a killing frost is behind us. I deadhead daily - cutting back to an outward facing stem of 5 leaves as taught to me by my father - it opens up the growth which should help eliminate disease. Cutting that much back when deadheading keeps growth in check but I do let them get to about 4' high. I don't like them to grow into each other (I have two sets of three along a fence outside a pool) as I want to be able to get around them to deadhead. I also don't like them coming through the wrought iron fence - just a visual preference. Deadheading daily doesn't take much time and is kind of Zen, plus it keeps the blooming going without too much down time after the initial blast of blooms. I fertilize with Root Tone every 6 weeks until August 1st. I don't water them, other than when applying fertilizer and rarely have Blackspot problems. I do hang a Japanese beetle trap in a discreet location nearby.
What are the good cold hardy rebloomers (old garden roses) from Palatine?
I got my order Wednesday, FOLKLORE, BRIDE'S DREAM, RINA HUGO, and POSEIDON. All were big, healthy, and lots of roots.