22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Same as pruning the big ones, twiggy growth is relative regardless of the variety. The mini twiggy growth would be smaller than the best canes.
Remove dead wood and prune to leave the center of the bush open as you
would a larger rose.
mustbnuts, I hope you are able to take a picture of the bloom of Vick's Caprice. I've always thought that is such a beautiful rose.
If I knew how much money I spent over the last nine years on roses, including the many dozens I've discarded, I'd probably go into shock. But, really, I can't think of anything else that has given me such a sense of anticipation, excitement and satisfaction so many times during those years. A large part of life should be enjoyment, in whatever form that may take, so let's not feel guilty (unless of course you've sold your firstborn in order to finance your hobby!).
If you really want to know, you can try cutting a piece of the root off and planting it in a pot. 'Dr. Huey' is known for coming back from pieces left behind in the soil after removing a rose grafted onto it. While it would probably take a year or two before seeing a bloom from a root cutting, you'll be able to narrow the guesses down by looking at foliage.
:-)
~Christopher
Not all rose roots are equal. If you have alkalin soils, Dr. Huey will be much happier and will do a better job than when he is planted in acidic soils.
Multiflora can handle acidic soils and will make vigorous growth there and is a better rootstock in my acidic soils. It took me a long time to learn this as most 'serious' local rose growers grow in soils that are made for roses, and that don't have a lot in common with our native top soils (and the layer of clay that's under our too thin top soil. )
Belinda's Dream seems to be happy on its own roots in good loamy soils as well as in acidic emended soil in my yard.
That was too bad having 3 appointments cancelled! And then still not to have had anyone actually look at it. However, it's good to know you have finally got a firm lab diagnosis and are getting appropriate treatment for it; I hope there is some way you can get follow-up from someone to check the Staph is fully cleared up by the end of the course. That's a pretty scary thing to have! Don't forget to take probiotics or eat gallons of live yoghurt to replace all the good gut bacteria that will probably have been wiped out by the abs. Some Astragalus (Chinese herb) to re-boot your immune system afterwards would probably be helpful too, if it's available there, or even after you get home.
Best of luck; thanks for letting us know how things panned out, and do let us know of any further updates. It's certainly made me and I'm sure others more aware of the possible serious consequences of such unfortunate rose prickle close encounters.
Comtesse :¬)
Here are both bushes side by side. They are both young, but they should give you an idea. I've been wanting Sheila's Perfume for a while, so I was very pleased when I found her. For this reason, and the fact that I haven't had both long enough, I couldn't recommend one for the other without being bias. Pardon the crappy pics.
Are there trees that give it more shade throughout the summer?
We needs lots more pictures!!! On my monitor the darker flower is a wonderful shade of yesteryear's smokey antiquey pink (?). I've been reading about 'Cape Diamond' because it also has that color. But a much flatter bloom showing the yellow stamens. Such a rare shade in roses. Lucky you! Perhaps it is just a once bloomer?
Definitely not Cape Diamond She never has that shape. Color is close but she opens flat. It looks so much like a floribunda or grandiflora. But even a starving flora will re bloom. Your foliage is in too good of shape for this to be a neglected rose bush. Is there any chance you have rose midge. If other roses are re-blooming I would think not.
Ingrid, perhaps some of the following may help with getting your roses to last longer in the vase? :-
"Collect the blooms early in the morning or in the evening and plunge them deep in water for several hours. The water and the container must be fresh and clean, at air temperature rather than cold. Commercial additives are generally worth using, but the traditional aids of copper coins, aspirin, charcoal and sugar in the water all help to keep the blooms fresh.
As you place each stem into the arrangement, re-cut the stem under water in order to rid the stem of air pockets in the sap-stream. Splitting or scraping the stem allows more water to be taken up. Display your arrangement in a cool, draught-free position if possible, as the warmth of fires and appliances will dry out the flowers. An occasional fine spray of water through an atomising sprayer will keep them looking fresh."
From: A Manual of Heritage Roses by Deane M Ross, 1989 (For anyone interested, this is a great little introduction to the whole subject of older roses from a local multi-generational family rose growing firm. It was my original basic 'bible' on the subject and I still refer to it quite often.)
Comtesse :¬)
PS Did a quick Google check and found an interesting variety of techniques suggested; one that sounded as if it might be especially good for hot areas/weather was adding plenty of ice to the water, renewing regularly - several commentators swore by this one.
Has anyone else got other/ better tips?
Sara Ann, just in case you're not familiar with it, the Peter Beales online catalogue is another useful resource for finding roses to match specific criteria like yours - you can select various combinations from quite a long list. Of course, you can then cross-reference to HelpMeFind for additional pictures, member comments, where to buy in the US, etc.
Incidentally, it appears that Beales no longer stock DAs - I think they're developing their own range instead. Their climate (in Norfolk, England) would be equivalent to US Zone 8a (?) I suppose - same as Marlorena's and Campanula's - but you can include selecting for 'growing in a cold climate'; AND 'hot climate' if your summer temps are regularly over, maybe, 80 or 90'F max.
Comtesse :¬)
For a short one, I use Sweet Pea (mauve to pink) and for a taller one, I use Lavender Dream (pink and mauve) in my shade rose garden. Also Natchitoches Noisette, who has bigger flowers and scent! She's tall (eventually) but can be pruned shorter with no issues at all.
But that's not with 4 hours of direct sun. They basically just get filtered sun and not even all day at that.
New Dawn is the absolute best in the shade (my clone repeats well), but she's a monster climber, so that's just a bit of trivia, really :D
If the canes of the standards are very dormant, you can do what I used to do to get them started:
Get a large clear plastic bag, take a couple handfuls of very damp spaghnum peat moss and pack it over the bud union. Take the bag and place over the canes and secure with a couple twist ties, under the bud union, make some air holes in the bag (you can clip off the corners of the bag).
Keep them in some filtered sun, and watch them, in a few days the canes will start to bud and new basal breaks often emerge from the bud union.
Gradually give the bag more air spaces as you are ready to remove the bag and moss.
It really depends on where you are. Anywhere around here, Iceberg is horrible for blackspot, and really needs to be sprayed. Sombreuil has had unimpressive blackspot resistance, but is better. White Dawn is a seedling of New Dawn, and supposedly not as good a rose. White New Dawn is a sport of New Dawn, so has all of its merits, but is a lot harder to find. White Cap is also a good white climber, though it isn't quite as hardy as New Dawn. I expect a lot of dieback on it this spring.
I planted an Iceberg two years ago, it didn't make it after the coldest winter. I am in zone 6a, it's pretty icy cold here. I purchased two bare root Sally Holmes last year, they're still alive. :-)