22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
It's great to hear of others' experiences with Morden Sunrise. I too love the many colours. No blackspot for me at this time. Here is a photo of mine:
And the same plant, a different bloom few weeks later, much more ruffled than the first:
If you have open wounds and are handling dangerous rose spraying chemicals without proper protection such as long sleeve shirts and gloves, all sorts of hard to diagnose problems can occur.
"Greater emphasis on the hazardous properties of these products is necessary to ensure non-professional users are aware of the necessity of protective clothing during mixing, loading, application and early re-entry into treated fields."
Awww bummer! That's what I was afraid of. Well, guess I'll have to bite the bullet and place a big order with Regans. They are closer, but more expensive. I need to replace quite a few roses I've lost over the last couple of yrs and from the septic dig-up. So sad to lose another supplier...
Summers - you should have no trouble overwintering Variegata di Bologna in zone 6. Mine is cane hardy in zone 5, which is one of the plusses, along with the cupped shape of the blooms. The downside is how very quickly the blooms fade - get your camera out quickly or you'll miss the blooms. Being a rapid fader is a real bummer for a once-bloomer, although one year I got a couple of repeat blooms in the fall by viciously pruning it back to about a foot tall after bloom. Have fun with it, but put it at the back of the bed so you can ignore it when it's done blooming.
Cynthia
Thanks Cynthia for the info. I will try to prun it hard every year to get it to repeat a little. It's too bad the blooms won't last, I didn't know that.......well, it's too late now to change to another rose. I shall give it a try, and will plant it in the backyard. I already have 3 huge William Buffin roses in the backyard, they repeat a little and are huge (12-14' tall). I will put New Dawn next to it, it repeats more than I thought. I am rooting a few. Thanks again.
Updates: I switched VDB and LD (once bloomers) with Lady Hillingdon and Jaune Desprez. :-)
I usually keep spraying until a hard frost. And maybe once during the winter. In addition to blackspot, I tend to get a lot of anthracnose in the cooler weather. It depends on the weather. Since I'm further south, we can get some warm days and the roses can actually start putting out new leaves. So I don't want the fungus to harbor in the roses all winter. Cleaning up the old mulch in the spring is something that some roses growers do. You can also do a dormant spray of sulphur that will kill any remaining spores on the roses and the ground.
I was able to get a little better picture this evening.
, I have QE growing in morning sun only, and she does very well, but there are several gardens that I pass out on my walks, where she is growing in full sun, and she is magnificent. She can reach close to 7' if not given a good summer prune and is quite narrow, but the huge candelabras of flowers are beautiful. They do fade quickly, but hold their shape for a day or two longer. The foliage is healthy here.
In his book Right Rose, Right Place, Peter Schneider says the tree form of Polar Joy is not grafted. http://tinyurl.com/qzz95tw Just cleaning up my Inbox, came across a reply to the question I'd sent to Ping Lim during this discussion, asking if any of this tree rose was indeed grafted. Jane Lim responded "...the whole thing is own root, no graft at all including the flowers."
Yes, they're own root trees. I think everyone should try one. :-) They repeat pretty fast, add bright pink color to any garden. The 2 troubled ones are totally brown now, dead, lifeless sitting in the pots. I was hoping the root might be alive, but they were all gone. The nursery will bareroot the ones they have now and ship them out next month, waiting for the weather cools down more. I will grow them in pots, store them in the garage for this winter, plant them in the garden next spring. I should be all set with Polar Joy trees after these 2 are replaced. 25 is a good number to stop. :-) Thanks for you input Vasue. Are you going to get 2? :-)
Lainey, I wasn't blaming you. No telling what happened before you moved there. But plants except cereal grains really don't use much phosphate, and if there is clay content in the soil, unused phosphate will build up.
Nik's suggestion for iron deficiency sounds good to me: get iron sulfate granules (aka greenstone) and plain sulfur. Mix 1/4 cup iron (per chlorotic plant) with a little sulfur to coat them. Poke 3 holes around the root zone 6" deep and dribble the iron in the holes. The chelated iron products are more expensive and not highly effective.
One TB PLAIN lawn fertilizer watered in will not burn, but if you prefer organic fertilizer, use blood meal. Poultry manure would be second best and less expensive.
cleangeek, thanks for the link to the video.
florist roses do have thorns. There tend to be less thorns right underneath the flower before you get to the first set of leaves . in the video that you linked to, there were actually red thorns lower down on the stem when they were picking the roses . Admittedly they're not super thorny varieties. But they're not actually thornless .
One of the handling techniques discussed in a California grown video was to pick the longest roses first, lay them on your arm, then pick ever shorter roses to put on top. that way the flowers on shorter stems don't get punctured by the thorns of taller stems surrounding them .
Florists and rose arrangers use a gadget called a stem stripper to remove thorns:
This stem stripper is stainless steel.
It will instantly remove the leaves and thorns from fresh roses.
This tool is very commonly used in the floral industry and is a necessity for anyone working with roses.
Length is approximately 4.5 inches.
the description was for a professional one being sold by a wholesale florist supply website, but you can buy plastic and metal stem strippers from Amazon.
I have used thorn strippers; I don't think they're worth the bother. That may be because I had to handle rose and I was the end-user as well . If someone else handled the rose to strip off the thorns for me, I might feel differently.
the video from Holland also mentioned part of what makes their roses a premium product is they allow the flowers to open a bit further on the plant . It reminds me of the premium tomatoes which are closer to ripe when they're packed . I remember people being astonished at seeing the cut garden roses my husband brought to work actually open up until you could see stamens . Apparently florist roses tend not to open to that extent before they wither.
as home rose gardeners, we're probably baffled at how much the price of roses is determined by the length of stems, all the way to superexpensive 5 foot stemmed roses.
I contacted. j schwanke (the producer and host of the video series the CA grown experience) through facebook. his YouTube videos of commercial cut flower rose propagation, production and harvesting are mesmerizing.
here is his answer to my question:
Thanks for the Email Nina and your kind comments...
Roses that are bred for commercial production are hybridized for Production... meaning they want to get many long stems... as quickly as possible... they are also bred to produce even better hydroponically and with using a commercial bending technique ... this process means that the roses are actually grafted to a mother stock... nettle briar... for the bending purpose...
So the long and short of the story... is that Commercial Roses are bred to produce many stems, quickly and also produce LONG straight stems.. and be partial to "bending"... if you watch the Eufloria Flowers Video on uBloom... (there are 3... Lily briefly explains this process)..
Commerical Roses wouldn't be very attractive in the garden... that is why there are different types for different purposes...
Hope that helps... Have a flower filled day!