22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Buford, what a shame. From the picture you posted, mine looks very similar to yours. Your comment about seeing one at Lowes that didn't look the same explains why i've seen a few pics of 'sweet vigorosa' on the internet that looked different than mine - same color maybe but not nearly as full of a flower as mine has.
Thanks. I did exchange them for two new plants that do look healthier - though they do have a few black stems. The guy said it is last year's growth. Obviously I'm not an experienced grower but that sounds a little wonky. Anyway, I'll give these a try. Glad to know this discussion is here for future questions.
If it's easy to just prune below those parts, I don't always return them. It depends on how quickly they bounce back from the pruning. But definitely cut off any black on any you keep. They should grow to be healthy in a good spot, but you don't want any of that disease to creep down the canes, so do get rid of it.
They probably just had too little light and/or bad airflow, etc, and caught it due to something like that at the nursery.
It looks like you might have another one there. In the pic above, the old-looking cane growing vertically to the left of your good green cane? Unless that's just fully woody and definitely very old, chop that one off, too :) It looks like maybe canker at its base, and you don't want it to creep to the good cane below it.
If it's just very old and dry, it won't hurt to leave it there, though, I don't think.
I grow SDLM in Dallas Tx and love it for its rebloom ability, heat tolerance and health. Few roses keep pumping out blooms during weeks or months of upper 90's to 100* highs. Mine smells like bananas & beer mixed together, but I don't have a good sniffer for the tea scents either.
I had SDLM for several years and it had a great fragrance. In a local public garden, they had several SDLM's and there was little or no fragrance. I often wonder if all the bushes sold as SDLM really ARE SDLM. Sadly, my SDLM gave up during one of our streaks of 110F+ weeks. When and if I grow her again, I'll keep her containered and shaded.
Figure it's got to put out roots or it can't stand up. If you're living in a warm soil zone, it probably will take a little longer to establish than some of the shorter plants. Since it is so tall, I think of it more as an upright climber or large shrub than a hybrid tea. It gets more water, more fertilizer, more space. I do stake the huge canes so they don't break during our summer monsoon winds/dust storms.
That is not rust. If it is mites, and you have killed them, the damaged leaves will not change - they are already damaged. Any new growth should come in without this sort of damage now.
It could also be some sort of burn. Give it plenty of water, and give it a rest from any spraying or fertilizer for a couple of months and see if the new growth looks better.
Jackie
"clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil" is the type that has had the azadirachtin removed.
I have discovered 2 broken canes on Eden and Graham Thomas yesterday. I think it could be squirrels since they are the only animals that can get into my yard beside birds. Recently we have a lot of the brown ones, smaller than the usual grey ones, coming to our yard. I hope they stop doing it because "Dr. Jekyll" here is not happy.
I have tried Mr. Lincoln in the dry Nevada desert 3 times, and it never did well. Now I am trying Oklahoma, Chrysler Imperial and Firefighter to see how they do. Maybe I will be giving up on them too, but I have given up on Mister Lincoln for good. At least there is no black spot here to worry about. Mr. Lincoln might be fine in N. Calif, and it wouldn`t hurt to try it!
I studied our curled and common rose slug here and they can crawl back on the bush... So squish em... Our curled rose slug here feeds on the top of leaves... Our common RS feeds on the underside of the leaves...
But I think feeding habits and appearance can vary from location to location...
Two of my favorite pics I took a couple years ago...lol
HI Ann
Thanks for the gentle correction of my assumption. It definitely seems to come from something other than my yard, but you're right that I don't know whether it is from the seller or the original rose grower. Certainly both companies for whom I've had the canker issues this year get their roses from another growing source, and that presumably is where the problem starts. Given the advanced state of progression from there, I still think similarly bad growing conditions will look worse by the time they arrive in cold zones after storage, but in all likelihood the problem began somewhere other than at the rose company. It has just had longer to fester by the time it gets to me, as witness a few photos of this year's crop. Any wonder these roses are already dead, after only a few weeks in the ground? I'd expect this look from body bag roses, since you take your chances there, but not good quality bareroots.
As I've said, the company has been great to replace these, but it's a shame about the treatment at the source. Hopefully they can fine the growers for these poor quality bands they received. Here are a few of the scarier ones, just after unpacking from the boxes.
And a split cane for good measure, also pruned down to nubbins.
Regardless, I like Ann's suggestion to stop this as far as possible at the "superficial blob" stage. Four of the badly cankered roses are clearly dead, but not Cinnamon Dolce (yet) who I immediately denuded of all her canes, and she seems to have decided to forgive me and regrow from the graft. Others that LOOKED fine after pruning, have had that progressive Black Finger of Death that so very quickly gets beyond me as soon as my back is turned.
Cynthia
Ha, over here in the UK, it means rose replant disease - a nuisance but absolutely not in the same league as the hideous Rose Rosette Disease - a horror mite infestation leading to dreadful growth distortions and eventual death. A nasty, nasty disease - I believe Ann Peck is the forum expert so follow up any of her postings (my source of info) and hope your area remains RRD free (cos I am counting the weeks and months before this hits the UK - the global movement of organic material suggests this is only a matter of time).
Seil's advice to prune to white pith is correct for young canes of hybrid teas.
The OP asked when to fertilize. There is no point in fertilizing until there are green leaves to utilize the nutrients. Be sure not to exceed labeled doses of fertilizer, and if you are using more than one kind of fertilizer, reduce doses accordingly. (Labeled doses are always on the generous side.) If you overfertilized last season, there should be plenty of nutrients left over except for nitrogen. Available nitrogen is transient in the soil, so N needs to be applied every year, in several small doses if you are using a fast nitrogen source. By contrast, excess phosphate can build up harmfully in the soil if you keep applying more than is needed.
OK. Thanks. good to know that
The pink and red knockouts have had better vigor than the sunny knockout for me. The whiteout (almost knockout) blooms as much or more than all of them, but I don't think it's quite as hardy, the bugs like it and it has slightly higher risk of PM in my experience.