21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Beautiful plant! I have a Tess that is 5-6 years old, planted in the ground against a big fan trellis. This rose has done wonderfully well - free of disease, blooms some even in our hot Texas summers. Its thorny, but a really, good healthy rose. Am sure those leaves are just no longer of use to the plant - I don't worry that my roses have to have totally perfect leaves - if they are growing, blooming and have most their leaves - I am happy. I think you will really enjoy Tess when you get her situated in the ground - give her plenty of room to spread out - she will delight you with lots of blooms!
Judith

Rainbow Niagra, I think!
Here is a link that might be useful: Rainbow Niagra

Nastarana, the leaves are not at all like Peace and I know what you mean, as I also grow Peace in my rose beds. HollyKline, nope, that is not her. I am going to stick with Tahitian Sunset as that is what her tag says. Just got a unique but beautiful set of striped blooms from her.


Yep, Thegardenat902, if you're around Des Moines then all of these roses should work fine for you. You get a little more moisture than we do in an average summer, but we have generally similar weather.
As for Ramblin' Red, it sounds like you got a great deal on a healthy rose. Make sure to water it in well planting it as late in the season as this, but an established plant that's super hardy as this one is should be no problem. I like mine OK, but it's in a part shade region of my yard and isn't as impressive as the same rose in other people's yards. For me, Quadra and Illusion are more reliable rebloomers, but you have a good spot picked out for you and it should work well. Just be sure to tie the canes on horizontally as soon as possible on your fence, as this one has pretty stiff thorny canes.
Have fun and send pictures!
Cynthia

Thanks. I had wondered if they were Japanese Beetles. I wasn't sure though because they were so small. I thought JB's were bigger and not as shiny looking.
I have read on some forums that even though they may eat all the leaves, the rose plant will continue living. The one plant they got to first has no leaves left, but I think there are a few new shoots about to come out. Will the plants survive if I do nothing? Or will the JB's kill them entirely?

They'll survive! The only concern would be weak or teeny roses, where they can't afford to lose so many leaves.
If you have that few (it is really few, sadly), then hand-pick them to squish, let die in an old water bottle, plop into a soapy bucket, etc. I usually go the water bottle route (before the droves come). Then I just throw it away with them contained in it. I usually recycle, but one water bottle compared to pesticides should even out ;) I hide it with their dying bodies inside and use it again the next day, too, but that gets smelly after a while! Don't say you weren't warned :D


Unfortunately, a harsh winter in these parts happens every decade or so. But, on the up side, if they are still green up top, they are growing nice happy roots below. More roots, more top growth. That's the way I've always looked at it. It has also been a much cooler summer than normal, and I think this may have contributed to the slower growth. Hang in there!

My roses aren't blooming much (or at all for some of them, even "mature" onces), and I initially thought that they are recovering from the harsh winter. However, thanks to a poster on this forum, (Jim from Pennsylvania to be specific), it turns out that I have a massive outbreak of rose midge. If your plants are growing nicely, but do not flower, google rose midge, just in case.

Mine maxes out between 4 and 5 ft in height. It does not spread out much; it is almost cylindrical in growth. It repeats reasonably well and is fragrant to an extent with a damask-type fragrance. The plant I have now is my third one. The first two failed to survive our winter-spring transitions. It may be fine where you are if other Portland roses do well there also.

I think it's just an old spent bloom that needs dead heading. Botrytis would effect all the blooms not just the old ones. You'd see brown edges on all the petals even the tight buds. And the buds would probably not open all the way like the one on the right is. Different varieties will age in different ways. Some hang on to their petals and get the used kleenex look while others will simple drop all their petals.

Not that they are selling Fortuniana, but offer roses budded on it. If you'd like VI Fortuniana, I grow Malcolm's VI Fortuniana, which, he tells me, is the one Davis is growing as they obtained it from him. He also stated they retested it for all they test for and found it free from everything they traditionally test for. It is the Fortuniana your Eugene de Beauharnais is budded to, though I have absolutely no clue as to the cleanliness of the Eugene. Would you like pieces of Malcolm's Fortuniana? If the green house is operational, I can get it to you. Kim

OH NO!
The Fortuniana we have runs almost all the way up the hill. Another Fortuniana, we do not need.
I was just curious.
But I've always sort of wondered if Fortuniana might not be a superior rootstock for some parts of California, since it seems to grow so well here.

I am a lazy gardener. Since I plant the bud unions deeply, I leave my roses uncovered during winter and, therefore, usually loose every cane to winter's natural pruning.
Seil, I know you are right about fungii being present in the air, etc., but I had rust on several roses for a couple of years and lost it pruning to the ground years ago. It has never returned. What can I say? I'm lucky I guess :-)
Steve

Nick, in the spring you only need to take off what ever cane is winter damaged and do not need to prune them down to the ground if the cane is still healthy and green. I always leave as much of the old viable cane as I can when I spring prune. Some years that's a lot and other years, like last year, it's next to nothing. Either way I let the roses start out with as much cane as possible and they seem to do very well.
Steve, I don't have much experience with rust so I can't say one way or the other about your results If it works for you then go for it. Thankfully rust is very rare here and I've never had it on my roses and have only seen it once on someone else's.





After a bloom, snap off, " deadhead" that spent bloom. The pods, or hips, only allowed in the fall when he is going dormant.
Forming a hip or seed pod, zaps the energy needed to continue blooming elsewhere on the plant during the growing season. Differs with different roses so just a generalization. But I would nip off those pods for now.
Wonderful! Thank you.