21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I can't be sure, but it might be a beneficial predator such as a syrphid larva. Do observe it and see what it's up to. Worms that eat leaves can be seen eating leaves, while predators usually prowl around.
If you conclude that it is eating leaves, just pick it off and squish. Or are there hundreds of them? True caterpillars can be controlled with a biological insecticide, BT (bacillus thuringensis).
The worms that most commonly graze on rose leaves are rose slugs, Look for them on the underside of the leaf.
This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Aug 12, 14 at 12:10


I haven't seen a post from Diane (nanadoll) in quite some time. I hope she's okay, and wonder if anyone has a way to contact her. She was a big help to me here on garden web as well, and introduced me to several beautiful roses, including Ascot and David Austin's Evelyn.
jannike

Same here. I am a newbie who has benefited from Diana's postings. Hope that all is well with her.
I got Ascot after seeing Diane's pictures.
Andrea -- my Ascot (second season) is not a short rose at all. I got it from Palatine, and the first season, it shoot up to 5 feet tall. I don't have YL, but I don't think Ascot is the best choice for a pot. Not sure where you are, but here in New Jersey, at least in my garden, it is not resistant to blackspot. It is, however, very vigorous grower and blackspot does not seem to bother it too much.
On the other hand, Floral Fairy Tale (own root, 3rd year) might be a good choice for pot. It is a sprawling grower for me and is wider than it is tall. The bush is fuller than Ascot.

I think, having removed as many yellow leaves as possible and tossing them into the garbage can, and having pruned away weak canes to make more air circulation possible on the Strike It Rich rose, that I will adopt the "wait and see" position. Thus far, the vast majority of the rose bushes is still green.
The yellow leaves are primarily at the bottom of the bushes. The Easy Does It rose bush has much bushier growth because I did corrective pruning on it for the 3 years I've had it. I will have to do the same to the Strike It Rich rose bush, as I only got it this spring. It consists of a base of old brown cane from which spring many green canes, most of them weak. I had to prop up a lot of the canes while they bore flowers. Now that the weak canes finished flowering and have no more buds, I trimmed them off to allow more air circulation. I trimmed off any crossing canes. Right now, there is ONE big long cane growing off the base of old brown canes which is flowering nicely. The other green canes growing off the old brown cane base are done with flowering, and I deadheaded them. If they were really spindly, the whole cane came off, into the garbage can.
I really hope that next spring, the Strike It Rich rose bush will have a lot better, stronger canes than it did initially. Despite that, I have been utterly delighted with the beauty of the flowers, as have many of my neighbors. It bloomed a LOT, and the amber-yellow flowers streaked with red are breathtakingly gorgeous.

It is also possible that some (all?) of those yellow leaves are just old leaves that the bush is getting set to shed in order to make room for new leaves. Rose bushes are known to do that from time to time.
And I agree with you--don't rush into spraying for BS until you determine how much of a problem your rose will or will not have with it. We'll hope this was a one time outbreak only.
Kate

We have a own root Mister Lincoln. Very slow to bloom and doesn't bloom at all when fall cooler weather arrives here...
But I keep him because for whatever reason he does not get blackspot and that's rare for here...
He gets no mildew here either and his blooms do smell great...
BUT I still must suggest you get/try another rose besides ML...
OH CRAP! I just noticed this was a old thread... :-/
This post was edited by jim1961 on Fri, Aug 15, 14 at 21:34

Old thread, so what? We've all got something to say about this rose. My two cents is as follows: fragrant, fragrant, fragrant. Double Delight is the only HT I've got with more fragrance. That said, he is a stingy bloomer -- maybe half a dozen all year.
I have Don Juan as well, and that is shaping up to be a better looking, more productive bush (and also sublimely odiferous). On the other hand, however, a rose garden without Mr. Lincoln is ... well ... not really complete. IMHO.
Sylvia

Thanks, Henry.
That Figure 3 shows one side of a compound leaf most affected and the terminal leaf beginning to be affected. It almost looks the opposite of vein clearing.
The two P. fructiphilus in Figure 2 are the whitish long things ....not all the red globules.



I think I agree with Jackie, Stan. This picture looks very much like one of TS's variations to me. I also think the striped one could be just another variation of TS caused by any number of variables in the weather. Or it could be a sport! I've had a few odd ball blooms show up this year on my roses. It was a crazy winter, many of the roses were severely damaged and had to be pruned to nothing, even the summer has been unusual, all of which could be causing these mutations to show up in blooms.

Thank you all for the input. Thanks so much Jackie and Seil. I am glad the rosebush still had the tag on it buried under the gravel mulch. Last year I don't remember her having blooms with the pronounced stripes but it has been a weird weather year. And it could be that one side of this old bush has actually form a Sport. Thanks again soooo much! :)

Rust and mildew are entirely different matters. Baby Love has extreme vertical resistance to some black spot strains. But once they mutate and figure out how to "pick the lock", it collapses and frequently dies. As long as it remains resistant, it's remarkable. That strong vertical resistance is what is hoped to be bred into further roses, combined with as great a horizontal resistance as possible.
Vertical resistance relies upon one gene for protection. Horizontal resistance depends upon multiple genes. Each type can provide protection against one, or numerous strains and both can be combined in a single seedling. Finding which are present in the parents; selecting the best parents to mate; then selecting the seedlings with the greatest combination of the resistance types are the issues. Hopefully, as money becomes available, invitro testing will become possible and affordable so these questions can be answered. Kim

You're welcome! Oh, yeah! Roses change DRAMATICALLY with climate and season. I've seen roses I've grown for years in other climates and asked what in the world they were. What's really embarrassing is when you've given someone a piece of a rose in a different climate and then ask them what that gorgeous rose they have is. "I got it from YOU!" OK. I'd wondered for a long time how they bred anything from Rosarium Uetersen. In my inland, valley heat, there are no sexual parts. The entire flower is usually packed completely full of petals and petaloids. The color is also a neon, poster paint coral pink. Then, I saw it along the coast...pastel coral with three or four rows of petals and an enormous center of lush, golden anthers full of pollen and a stigma crying out for the taking. I asked a friend what it was and she looked at me as if I had twenty heads. She bought the thing from ME at the nursery I managed back then, but I had never seen it grown in the cool, damp, only the hot and dry. That's why identifying roses from a photo taken in conditions you're unfamiliar with is so bloody difficult, unless the rose is so unusually distinct, nothing else could come close to looking like it. Enjoy! Kim

Kim is right, it's a red carpet. I have a few of them, but my dark pink carpet roses for some reason bloom much more than the red ones, their re-bloom speed is more like Knockout roses. I also have some very light pink (almost white) carpet roses, very pretty, but they don't repeat well in my garden.

I have had Jim Sproul's Eyeconic Pink Lemonade for 3 years now and I love it. It has great rebloom and is very healthy for me. It's also remarkably winter hardy. Which was in question early on because of the Rosa Persica in it's background.

I got Bulls Eye late last season and it never bloomed for me so I was a little surprised that it came back after that bad winter. It's planted in the ground now and putting on a lot of growth and has bloomed a couple of times. It's been healthy so far. Of the two I still like EPL the best because BE fades out to almost white really fast.


Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a tropical garden blog if anyone is interested (shameless plug):

Ah, Bayourose- you just made my day!! I have done a lot of mid-summer planting of roses in my zone, Heather, and sadly I only get winter survival on substantial sized pots anything after about June. I can plant Roses Unlimited gallons from their July sale without particular problems, but we don't get reliable snow cover and even with protection bands are simply not feasible for me this late in the year.
After last frost, however....now THAT I can order with a clear conscience!!
Off to blow my weekly budget...
Cynthia




Reine de Violettes was thornless for me. Crepuscule x3 were thornless. One of four grew thorns but at an elderly age, not an abundance. Heritage was completely thornless for me. I had 3, one of my first roses and neither ever had a thorn. Grandmother's Hat (for me) had prickles, no thorns. Zephy D had a few prickles, only on very old canes as she aged (you know like an older man who needs the ear hairs pulled). Lady Banks thornless for me. I have had Fortuniana plants that were completely thornless and some that were virtual spines. Renae is smooth. That's all I know and it's very little.
I wanted to thank everyone for their first hand experiences and feedback/knowlegde shared.
I have ordered up a few roses to get me started (Annie Laurie McDowell and Zephine Drouhin) and will be adding more probably next spring.