22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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ckinkopf

Thanks everyone...I had given them a good dose of Mills Mix about a month ago and the others responded quickly. These not so much - but I'll be patient.

My dog keeps rooting around them - I think he likes the fishy smell of Mills Mix! :-)

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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Remember a rose bush can only take up so many nutrients at one time. If it does not have many leaves than a much smaller dose would be used... I actually stunted the growth of a couple smaller double KO's one year from giving them to much fertilizer by accident...

Sometimes less is more....

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Buford_NE_GA_7A(7B)

I just got Tess, and it's a true red so far. I don't have any of the other Austins mentioned. Although that picture of Prospero that Jeri posted has me thinking....

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sharon2079

thanks everybody.... I appreciate the info

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rabainsz7bpnw

Wow!!! Great roses.

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Ninkasi(6-7 Germany)

Bonica or queen of Sweden may be lovely there

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stillanntn6b

For me, Orchid Masterpiece is the one that got away. Ten years ago I found the most magnificent specimen with its roots in a plastic bag. Seven of the healtiest canes I've ever seen on a climber. Not anything wrong. Until I grabbed the plastic enclosed roots and the bag was nearly empty. I could feel one woody root. And not much else.

So, having learned on some Don Juans that I should have left at Home Depot years earlier, I walked away from Orchid Masterpiece.

If I were to try to grow it, I'd try to give it growing conditions like a playa lake in California...very sandy loam and alkaline conditions (and flood it with water every so often) because that plant that got way had gotten that big in two years of field growth in those conditions.

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braverichard (6a, North MO)

I can't say my Climbing Orchid Masterpiece came in good shape in the bag but I was able to pot it up, feed it and nurture it to get it to "grow up." So now I'm quite dissappointed in the lack of blooms on a bush that is supposed to bloom on new wood, is 4 years old at this point, showed pretty good cane hardiness for where I planted it (I planted it against a South East corner wall so it is probably zone 7 in there) and is supposed to at least have a good spring flush. Well, it will probably meet the good old shovel this weekend.

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

'Christian Dior' is highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Historically it has been popular in the Deep South and Florida where mildew is not often a problem. When my father grew it in FL long ago, it was a good bloomer and good cut flower.

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Donna R zone 6a

Thank you, everyone. I like the flower color. True reds are my favorites. Sylvia, you are so right-I have 6 Don Juans climbers on arbors around our fishpond. They are baby plants, I just saw a few blooms last year-I can hardly wait until they come into their own. Oklahoma would be a nice one to have. I have yet to order any roses-everything I have has been purchased locally, and I have never seen it available here.

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seil zone 6b MI

Yes, they all have unique habits. They can even differ from place to place in your garden too. I had one Double Delight in the front yard bed that was usually slow to repeat while the one in the back yard bloomed much quicker.

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jjpeace (zone 5 US/zone 6 Can)

I said it before that not only does a good rose depends on the individual vigor of the plant but also on where you plant it and the general climate zone hence micro and macro climate. The only rose that I have planted twice is Peace. I remember the first Peace I planted which was a strong plant with many thick canes was bs magnet and died after the first winter. I first thought it wasn't the right plant for my zone. A couple years later, I decided to grow in a different area and this time, it was a strong plant and a bloom machine. I had it for three years. Unfortunately I forgot to protect it last winter and so far does not have any canes or buds yet. I will wait and see what happens. It still has green colour near the crown and I am hopeful. However, even if it does survive, it may not be as vigorous this year.

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sutekesh Switzerland(6a)

jjpeace, I can second Nippstress with regards to Bonica, very healthy and gives a wonderful show. I even think the individual blooms are quite pretty. And if you are into hybridizing, its both a good pollen and hip parent.

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jjpeace (zone 5 US/zone 6 Can)

Thanks for the info, guys.

Sorry about your Americas, summersrhythm. However, we did have cold winter weather last year so it may have affected them as first year plants.

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densiemill

Oh how I love Bolero. Isn't it beautiful in person.

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cadiarose(zone 7a, NJ)

Denisemill, yes, Bolero is a beauty! When I saw it I had to have it even though I truly, truly have NO space. I'll have to think about it a bit, but it's going to get planted somewhere I can see it frequently. No pot ghetto inhabtant, this one!

Diane, the more interesting varieties have started coming in this past week in our area. Some of what I've noticed: Over the Moon, Julio Iglesias, Apricot Candy, Francis Meilland, Elle, Pope John Paul II, Easter Basket, Intrigue, Passionate Kisses, Tahitian Treasure, Mercury Rising, Jump for Joy, Adobe Sunset, Mardi Gras, Miss Congeniality, Brandy, and oldies but goodies like Double Delight and Tiffany. There were other interesting varieties at the 3 HDs I checked out, but I honestly can't remember them. I made written notes on the ones above.

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noseometer...7A...ABQ

Sally Holmes at the Albuquerque Rose Garden. If I remember correctly, it gets pruned every year, but not very much. I think the concrete is 4'x4'.

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Desertgarden-Las Vegas, Z9a

Thank you all for the information. As suspected, Sally Holmes is a tough rose!! I will plant Sally Holmes in the space that will allow it to become about 6' around.

Lynn

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jacqueline9CA

I think they will be fine the way your describe your plans. Since they will be in an open trailer, I would check them for needing water along the way - just the wind from driving will be very drying, and it is hot in July. I would wrap them loosely in burlap, to protect them from the sun. If you water them if they need it every morning, they should be OK.

How many roses are you moving? After you get there, don't plant them immediately, just take off the burlap & put them in partial shade for a few days and give them adequate water, and let them rest for a bit.

Of course, you may have some roses which love the West Coast, but will not love Arkansas. You will learn about that after a season or two. Good luck!

Jackie

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seil zone 6b MI

I agree with Jackie, your plan sounds fine as long as you keep them moist.

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Sara-Ann Z6B OK

Rabains - I think Tiffany and Bewitched eventually end up being around the same height. Like Diane stated, they are both "old timers," but they are good roses. There are lots of very good pinks, another older one I used to have that is a very good and dependable bloomer is Queen Elizabeth, it gets rather tall. Some newer varieties that I planted this year but haven't bloomed yet are Beverly, Memorial Day and Frederic Mistral. I am anxious to see how they do. Maybe others will give some other good suggestions, I don't think there's a shortage of good pink roses.

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rosecanadian

Wow!! Sara-Ann!!!

They're all beautiful - but Pink Peace is exquisite!!!

Carol

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moroseaz

I deal with drought daily. The brown leaf tips are usually salts left behind during the transpiration process. You might water deeper to leach the salts from the roots. Depending on how large your roses are, poke a sharp stake into the ground at the leaf-line and use it like a dipstick. Within 24 hours of watering your roses, it should penetrate to about 16-18". Your roots are probably at about 14-16" deep, depending on size, age and type of rose. If the stick won't penetrate that deep, you may have hit a rock or dry soil. Try again. If it won't penetrate, you need to increase the amount of water. This doesn't mean you need to increase the number of cycles you water, just the amount of water. In my area, depending on the type of watering system, we water an average of 3x a week during summer for drip systems and once a week or two on flood irrigation systems which deliver a lot more water.

To discourage salt buildup, which can become lethal to the bush, discontinue or drastically reduce fertilizers when the soil and air temperatures are high. Gravel, rocks, block walls, etc will increase temps, too. We usually use a slow-release fertilizer like Osmacote during our summer month (June thru late September). You've heavily mulched? Four inches or more? That'll help a LOT with keeping the roots cool, retarding competing weeds, and reducing the amount of moisture loss. You can also erect some type of sturdy shade structure for the hottest times of the day if you're in a sun-rich growing environment like Phoenix.

Roses have several methods of telling you they're thirsty. Foremost is drooping of buds and top leaves. Loss of bottom leaves is fairly common since they are the oldest leaves on the bush and drop naturally at least once a year. Reduction in bloom and new growth actually helps a rose bush tolerate hot temperatures so lowering your expectations is beneficial, too. The best method is the sharp stake in the ground method. I don't know of any moisture probe that goes deep enough for rose roots. Probably more costly than needed anyway.

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socks

Thank you for all the helpful information. Yes, the mulch is 4" most everywhere, but later today I'm adding more to spots that I see thinning. One thing about the drought, I'm seeing fewer weeds.

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seil zone 6b MI

If there are no drainage holes in the new pot drill some right away. I agree with cleangeek, drip alone for a new rose may not be enough water.

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Sprout 717

I am hoping to move my roses that I have had for more than 5 years now . I currently live on the West Coast and the roses are going to be moved back to the midwest (Northwest Arkansas) in July. I was planning on putting them in 5-10 Gallon pots within the next month. Cut them back about a 1 or 2 before the move and water them heavily 3 days before. They would be in an open air trailer (5 days roughly) during the move. I chose an open air trailer to keep the air moving. Is there any chance of their survival, or should I forget the whole thing?

Do you have any suggestions for such a move?

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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

Unlike blackspot, mildew is a dry climate issue. So adding water often helps, and doesn't hurt. If potted roses are having problems, the first suspect is the pot. Depending on the size of the plant and the size of the pot, once everyother day watering may not be enough. I'd start by sticking saucers under them, and making absolutely sure they are adequately hydrated.

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

PM spores cannot germinate in free water. They want a dry leaf with temperatures in the vicinity of 60 and relative humidity of 95-99% for several hours. These conditions happen really often on the immediate Pacific Coast but are uncommon here.. Rinsing the new foliage frequently can wash off spores and won't cause blackspot if it dries completely within 6 or 7 hours.

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Bloom BoosterHas anyone used this on roses.
Posted by dmoore66(6 NorthWest NJ)
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Prettypetals_GA_7-8

So good to read this post. I too have moved to just triple 10 but this year I I mixed triple 10, Black Kow together in wheel barrow and then mixed in some alfalfa pellets and mixed them all together good and shoveled it around my roses. Hoping adding the alfalfa was ok. So do I need to look for a triple 10 that says something particular? I usually get what our Home Depot sells. To be honest I use it on everything because its so easy. I do use Fish Emulsion off and on too. Last summer I used triple 10 once a month too and the roses bloomed great all summer. Plus adequate amt of water. Judy

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cleangeek(Zone 9)

I'm not ashamed to say I use Miracle Grow Bloom Booster, 15-30-15 at half strength every two weeks works for me. A 1.5 lb box is $6 and it lasts two years.

I add a layer of compost in the spring and fertilize March - September.

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