22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Summers - you should have no trouble overwintering Variegata di Bologna in zone 6. Mine is cane hardy in zone 5, which is one of the plusses, along with the cupped shape of the blooms. The downside is how very quickly the blooms fade - get your camera out quickly or you'll miss the blooms. Being a rapid fader is a real bummer for a once-bloomer, although one year I got a couple of repeat blooms in the fall by viciously pruning it back to about a foot tall after bloom. Have fun with it, but put it at the back of the bed so you can ignore it when it's done blooming.
Cynthia
Thanks Cynthia for the info. I will try to prun it hard every year to get it to repeat a little. It's too bad the blooms won't last, I didn't know that.......well, it's too late now to change to another rose. I shall give it a try, and will plant it in the backyard. I already have 3 huge William Buffin roses in the backyard, they repeat a little and are huge (12-14' tall). I will put New Dawn next to it, it repeats more than I thought. I am rooting a few. Thanks again.
Updates: I switched VDB and LD (once bloomers) with Lady Hillingdon and Jaune Desprez. :-)
I usually keep spraying until a hard frost. And maybe once during the winter. In addition to blackspot, I tend to get a lot of anthracnose in the cooler weather. It depends on the weather. Since I'm further south, we can get some warm days and the roses can actually start putting out new leaves. So I don't want the fungus to harbor in the roses all winter. Cleaning up the old mulch in the spring is something that some roses growers do. You can also do a dormant spray of sulphur that will kill any remaining spores on the roses and the ground.
I was able to get a little better picture this evening.
, I have QE growing in morning sun only, and she does very well, but there are several gardens that I pass out on my walks, where she is growing in full sun, and she is magnificent. She can reach close to 7' if not given a good summer prune and is quite narrow, but the huge candelabras of flowers are beautiful. They do fade quickly, but hold their shape for a day or two longer. The foliage is healthy here.
In his book Right Rose, Right Place, Peter Schneider says the tree form of Polar Joy is not grafted. http://tinyurl.com/qzz95tw Just cleaning up my Inbox, came across a reply to the question I'd sent to Ping Lim during this discussion, asking if any of this tree rose was indeed grafted. Jane Lim responded "...the whole thing is own root, no graft at all including the flowers."
Yes, they're own root trees. I think everyone should try one. :-) They repeat pretty fast, add bright pink color to any garden. The 2 troubled ones are totally brown now, dead, lifeless sitting in the pots. I was hoping the root might be alive, but they were all gone. The nursery will bareroot the ones they have now and ship them out next month, waiting for the weather cools down more. I will grow them in pots, store them in the garage for this winter, plant them in the garden next spring. I should be all set with Polar Joy trees after these 2 are replaced. 25 is a good number to stop. :-) Thanks for you input Vasue. Are you going to get 2? :-)
Lainey, I wasn't blaming you. No telling what happened before you moved there. But plants except cereal grains really don't use much phosphate, and if there is clay content in the soil, unused phosphate will build up.
Nik's suggestion for iron deficiency sounds good to me: get iron sulfate granules (aka greenstone) and plain sulfur. Mix 1/4 cup iron (per chlorotic plant) with a little sulfur to coat them. Poke 3 holes around the root zone 6" deep and dribble the iron in the holes. The chelated iron products are more expensive and not highly effective.
One TB PLAIN lawn fertilizer watered in will not burn, but if you prefer organic fertilizer, use blood meal. Poultry manure would be second best and less expensive.
There are comments on the Rose Hybridizers Web page
kublakan,
You wrote:
'My rotation:
Week 1 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC
Week 3 - Bayer Advanced
Week 5 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC
Week 7 - Ortho Rose Disease and Insect'
In reality I believe you are using two different neonicotinoid insecticides (imidacloprid, acetamiprid) out of the 4 insecticides you are using in your 'rotation'. These are of the same Mode of Action Group so rotating them makes no sense from the point of view of resistance management.
Similarly with the 2 out of the 3 of the fungicides you are 'rotating' (tebuconazole and triticonazole) both of them are triazoles in the same Mode of Action Group. In addition you are also regulalrly using spinosad which does result in resistance build up. On top of that you are using a pyrethroid insecticide once and mancozeb fungicide twice. The only drastic ingredient out of the ones you're using which does not supposedly suffer from resistance buildup is mancozeb.
With regards to malathion, fwiw it's banned in the EU.
"USEPA has classified mancozeb as a probable human carcinogen, and it is identified under Proposition 65 as known to the state to cause cancer."
From: http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/dept/prec/2014/011714_risk_assess_prioritization_update.pdf
I have an old Rosanna, which was listed as a climber when I got it (from Vintage) as an own root. It has never climbed for me, but then, Kordes uses the same names for roses over and over, and it is (very likely) not the same cultivar that Palatine is selling now, but rather a former iteration where Kordes used that name. Moreover, mine is "own root," which would certainly be less vigorous overall than most roses on multiflora roots, which is what Palatine uses. So, your "rosanna" rose may do well, but it is really just an experiment. But I do second Jeri's recommendation of Sombreuil. That one will scamper right up your tree, no problemo. Maybe try both of them -- one on each side and see who wins.
ok, thanks! I will try all of that.
I don't know if it's recommended to cut them back in zone 5? May want to leave the canes as is till spring. Hopefully Mad will chime in here :)