22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I am hoping to move my roses that I have had for more than 5 years now . I currently live on the West Coast and the roses are going to be moved back to the midwest (Northwest Arkansas) in July. I was planning on putting them in 5-10 Gallon pots within the next month. Cut them back about a 1 or 2 before the move and water them heavily 3 days before. They would be in an open air trailer (5 days roughly) during the move. I chose an open air trailer to keep the air moving. Is there any chance of their survival, or should I forget the whole thing?
Do you have any suggestions for such a move?
Unlike blackspot, mildew is a dry climate issue. So adding water often helps, and doesn't hurt. If potted roses are having problems, the first suspect is the pot. Depending on the size of the plant and the size of the pot, once everyother day watering may not be enough. I'd start by sticking saucers under them, and making absolutely sure they are adequately hydrated.
PM spores cannot germinate in free water. They want a dry leaf with temperatures in the vicinity of 60 and relative humidity of 95-99% for several hours. These conditions happen really often on the immediate Pacific Coast but are uncommon here.. Rinsing the new foliage frequently can wash off spores and won't cause blackspot if it dries completely within 6 or 7 hours.
So good to read this post. I too have moved to just triple 10 but this year I I mixed triple 10, Black Kow together in wheel barrow and then mixed in some alfalfa pellets and mixed them all together good and shoveled it around my roses. Hoping adding the alfalfa was ok. So do I need to look for a triple 10 that says something particular? I usually get what our Home Depot sells. To be honest I use it on everything because its so easy. I do use Fish Emulsion off and on too. Last summer I used triple 10 once a month too and the roses bloomed great all summer. Plus adequate amt of water. Judy
FM is one of the few roses that took 3 years to perform really well in my garden. The first year it mildewed a lot. Second year it grew into a tree sized monster 10 x 10 x 6 feet. I hacked it down to 2 feet in winter like any other HT. 3rd year on-wards he has been blooming his head off! Always in flower and the fragrance intensified over time. One of my absolute favourite roses. You can cut 2 dozens of long stem roses from it every week in hot weather, and a few flowers every week in cool weather. He is now very disease resistant. Also he is nearly thornless! p.s My FM has no more thrip problems than any other roses. The thrip magnets in my garden are: Fragrant Plum, Chartreuse de Parme, Honey Bouquet, Memorial Day and Munstead Wood. My FM:
Thanks guys and gals! The rose is amazing and I confess I adore it as it seems to glow even in full sun. I've always been attracted to roses with interesting names and names are a part of the romance of the plants for me.
Pope John Paul II was a religious leader whom I greatly admired along with Mother Theresa, Dr. M. L. King Jr., and the Rev. Billy Graham, so when I saw pictures of PJPII, I simply had to have it as it is a fine tribute to the late Pontiff.
Jack
When I bought my PJPII from Nelson's earlier this year Jean warned me about the same. It's simply amazing how these little sticks grow quickly. I had to beg for a Fragrant Cloud that was in a similar condition. Both are now huge and quickly getting bigger.
Enjoy your rose bush! The flowers are beautiful.
Thanks for the info! A great news for all the roseaholics. I don't know if I still have room left, but it doesn't hurt to look. :-) I got my list ready to roll: Duchesse de Rohan, Gloire de Mousseux, Rosarium Uetersen, Souvenir De la Malmaison Climber, Variegata di Bologna, Yolande d' Aragon.
It really depends on your soil I would think. I wouldn't even call decomposed granite soil, but that's what I have. Because of that I add bagged soil and compost before planting. I then mulch it heavily so the sun doesn't dry out the soil. Having said that, most roses aren't doing very well this year, but I blame the drought for that. Roses need rain and that's all there is to it. Crazy temperature swings this spring also didn't help.
Or if you live in central Florida with nematodes. I amend my entire bed, but I also dig a large planting hole and entirely replace the sand with my own planting mix. I'm hoping the nematodes can't "swim" through it like they do sand. I also top dress with manure, but more often.
My roses are more varied than I thought. 2 Bourbons, 2 Bucks, 6 large flowered Climbers, 1 miniature climber, 6 English, 2 Floribunda, 2 hybrid Chinas, 1 hybrid Kordesii, 3 hybrid Musks, 1 hybrid Rugosa, 4 Hybrid Teas, 2 Noisettes, 4 Polyanthas, 2 Shrubs, 1 Species, and 4 Teas. Plus I have a few unlabeled mystery roses.
2 Hybrid Musk / 1 Hybrid Spinnosissima / 3 Hybrid Perpetual / 3 Moss
4 Bermuda Mystery / 4 Boubon / 4 Polyantha
5 Mini-Flora
9 China
10 Mini
11 Grandiflora
16 Shrub
21 Floribunda
36 Antique Tea
71 Hybrid Tea
Hopefully I didn't double count anything, but I have multiples of some things so I guess it doesn't matter. There are "around" 200 roses in my garden. They're ALL my favorites. :D
The roses will bloom again after the next round of shoots grows out.
The rose slugs (good diagnosis) are on the underside of the leaves. They have to be coated with oil or soap spray if it is to work. Easier just to wipe them off. Usually they don't become a severe problem because predators eat them.
You don't have to deadhead KO, but it will bloom somewhat better if you do. The idea is to prevent fruits from developing.
The original blooms were forced in a greenhouse, they want to grow roots now that they have good homes. Roses take 4 - 6 weeks between bloom cycles. Keep watering, hold back on the super-strength fertilizers. See this thread: Bloom Booster. A good organic fertilizer or a balanced fertilizer will serve you well.
Oh thank you! Yes, it has definitely been a good little rose, its blooms are always quite striking with its bright pink petals.
Thank you everyone for your advice! I was able to straighten this out with the nursery and they agree that it must have been mislabeled. They'll be sending me a new Alec's Red next week!
I deal with drought daily. The brown leaf tips are usually salts left behind during the transpiration process. You might water deeper to leach the salts from the roots. Depending on how large your roses are, poke a sharp stake into the ground at the leaf-line and use it like a dipstick. Within 24 hours of watering your roses, it should penetrate to about 16-18". Your roots are probably at about 14-16" deep, depending on size, age and type of rose. If the stick won't penetrate that deep, you may have hit a rock or dry soil. Try again. If it won't penetrate, you need to increase the amount of water. This doesn't mean you need to increase the number of cycles you water, just the amount of water. In my area, depending on the type of watering system, we water an average of 3x a week during summer for drip systems and once a week or two on flood irrigation systems which deliver a lot more water.
To discourage salt buildup, which can become lethal to the bush, discontinue or drastically reduce fertilizers when the soil and air temperatures are high. Gravel, rocks, block walls, etc will increase temps, too. We usually use a slow-release fertilizer like Osmacote during our summer month (June thru late September). You've heavily mulched? Four inches or more? That'll help a LOT with keeping the roots cool, retarding competing weeds, and reducing the amount of moisture loss. You can also erect some type of sturdy shade structure for the hottest times of the day if you're in a sun-rich growing environment like Phoenix.
Roses have several methods of telling you they're thirsty. Foremost is drooping of buds and top leaves. Loss of bottom leaves is fairly common since they are the oldest leaves on the bush and drop naturally at least once a year. Reduction in bloom and new growth actually helps a rose bush tolerate hot temperatures so lowering your expectations is beneficial, too. The best method is the sharp stake in the ground method. I don't know of any moisture probe that goes deep enough for rose roots. Probably more costly than needed anyway.
Thank you for all the helpful information. Yes, the mulch is 4" most everywhere, but later today I'm adding more to spots that I see thinning. One thing about the drought, I'm seeing fewer weeds.