21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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dawnpet69

Thankyou so much, I will follow your advice

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 1:10PM
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jerijen(Zone 10)

Coming in late -- but you've gotten good advice.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 8:48PM
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roseseek

You're welcome, Carol. Check the foliage, wood, prickles and scent of newly opened blooms. Weather, fertilizer, moisture levels and climate can affect bloom shape, but the coloring of the blooms appear very similar to me between the two. Are there other darker mauve HTs you've bought, or is Rothschild the darker one that's followed you home? Rothschild is quite fragrant, or was here. It always appeared to me that none of the major US producers picked it up because they had Silk Hat in the pipeline. In my garden and to my taste, Rothschild was the superior plant and bloom, but it boils down to economics. Had they pushed Rothschild, they would have owed Meilland the royalties. Waiting for Silk Hat, they got to keep all the royalties for themselves. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Silk Hat

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 12:49PM
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canadian_rose(zone 3a)

Yes, Silk Hat and Baronne seem quite similar! Both have the silver reverse.

The 2nd rose has quilled petals. I think it could be anything. Don't think it's something I ordered.

I know it might sound weird/uneconomical etc. but if I don't know the name of it - I would just as soon as give it away as keep it. :(

Well, I'll keep you posted as new blooms come. Since it's a new rose (bare root) it might take a while. Whereas Baron EdR is twice the height and has many blooms. I agree with you. I love it!!
Carol

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 2:27PM
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jacqueline9CA

Thanks, Henry

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 12:12PM
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cecily(7 VA)

Hi Vicky,
Your post isn't receiving responses because you placed it on the "Off Topic" conversations part of the forum where people talk about non-rose related topics like dentists and vacations. There is a main "Discussions" side of the rose forum for rose related questions.

When you ask a question about roses, its helpful to say where you live (zone 6 midwest, zone 10 CA, etc) because a lot of rose advice is local. Also, describing how you care for your roses helps (type of fertilizer, fungicide spray, bug spray used). Looking at your photo, I think you have a hybrid tea rose and its mid-summer. In most areas of the US, HT roses drop the lower leaves unless sprayed bi-weekly with fungicide. Its normal. If you live in a hot climate (south Texas, CA, AZ) you can cut them back to about four feet tall in August and new canes (with foliage!) will grow for a nice fall flush of bloom. If you live in a cooler area, August pruning will cause new growth that is killed by the first frost.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 6:42AM
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roseseek

I understand and that's a call that's yours to make. I simply didn't want you to undertake this and come to wish you hadn't for fear of transmitting anything undesired. Fore warned is fore armed. What you could also do is use any seedlings you don't think you want to retain, but which have proven themselves vigorous and able to withstand your climate. Mr. Moore did that extensively. There were things popping up all over that nursery as suckers, often quite interesting and beautiful things he'd forgotten were under something (sometimes MANY "somethings") he budded to see what the plant shape would be or to push to increase propagation material. Kim

    Bookmark   August 3, 2014 at 3:41PM
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roseseek

More "Duh!" today. Several of the stocks I sealed with the Parafilm continued flowing sufficient sap to leak quite badly, no matter how tightly I wrapped the ends. I stopped by my favorite nursery today and asked about the old pruning sealer stick I sold years ago and was told by the chemical buyer she didn't think it was still manufactured. She asked what I needed it for and after my explanation, she asked why I didn't simply use Elmer's Glue. Duh! I KNOW that, but didn't think of it. The sap flows much stronger during daylight hours with heat. I waited until dusk, peeled the leaking Parafilm off and squeezed some Elmer's Glue on to a paper towel and began painting the leaking ends with a Q-tip. I worried the flow might dilute the glue and continue leaking, but less than half an hour later, the glue had set. I painted it over the edge and on to the top sides of the cut ends in hopes of creating a sealed cap to contain the leaks. It's now many hours later and the glue is dry on all the painted stocks. Hopefully, tomorrow when the sun rises and heat begins to build, the dried glue caps will retain the sap flow and begin pushing the buds even faster. Kim

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 2:33AM
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roseseek

You could order the one from Hortico and plant it deeply so it goes own root. Or, get the Hortico plant and begin rooting them once it grows. You should then have the one considered the more fragrant. Kim

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 2:26AM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

I think the yellow tomato was a Yellow Brandywine?

They sure make good tomato sandwiches

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 11:20PM
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roseseek

I'd say you are safe growing them outdoors, Virginia. The greatest things about germinating them outdoors are you plant them all at once and don't have to continuously check for newly germinated ones and get them planted ASAP; you just keep them watered and let them do their own things. You don't have to worry about hardening anything off because as they germinate, they ARE hardening off. And, if you use a large and deep enough container in which to germinate them, you can pretty much leave them alone to grow in that container until fall/winter when it's safer and more comfortable to separate them. The varying temperatures are going to help them germinate better and they should continue germinating well into the eighty degrees range, despite the reported "germination stops around seventy degrees". Not here. I find them continuing to come up well into the eighties. You're going to have FUN!

Thank you, Boncrow. Much appreciated! Thank you, Kippy. I appreciate knowing the name of that tomato. It was wonderful! Kim

    Bookmark   August 6, 2014 at 2:19AM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

The caption for their photo is backwards: it's RRD on the right, while the healthy plant is on the left.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 8:46PM
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henry_kuska

Also see:

http://www.sdshores.com/announcements/rose-rosette-disease-found-in-south-down-roses

"Our South Down rose is the first confirmed case in NH."

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 8:55PM
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roseseek

Go get these! The very early ones are interesting, but contain a bit less research. The 1920s through mid to late 1950s are fascinating! They contain such a wealth of knowledge and personalities. Rose research supported by the ARS in the 1970s yielded some rather interesting items. It's wonderful getting to read Wilhelm Kordes, Tantau, Boerner, Meilland, Le Grice, etc. writing about their passions. There are very telling reports from Europe during WWII written by rose lovers and producers. Now these rather rare and harder to find things are available electronically and free, there is no excuse! You are guaranteed to find many things there to interest and delight you. Thanks, Henry! Kim

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 1:00PM
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Michaela .:. thegarden@902 .:. (Zone 5b - Iowa)

TKHooper196 -

Are they in pots or planted in the garden?

I would fertilize them, keep them well watered, and make sure they get some shade in the hottest parts of the day.

I have two very very young John Davis roses and I have them in one gallon pots, and I mulched the pots so they don't dry out too quickly. They seem to like the afternoon shade a bit.

Good luck! :o)

    Bookmark   August 4, 2014 at 4:51PM
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jacqueline9CA

Climbing roses:

FIrst year sleeping
Second year creeping
Third year leaping!

Water, light, and some food (NOT Bayer 3 in 1). Then patience. If they grow any long canes, that is when they are starting to "leap". If you train the canes as horizontally on a support as you can, they will bloom more.

Jackie

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 10:43AM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Filoli is wonderful.

I visited the Luther Burbank home a few years ago. Really interesting. We need to remember that at the beginning of the 20th century many Americans were still farmers. Luther Burbank was like the Steve Jobs, or Bill Gates of his time.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2014 at 8:09PM
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Mendocino_Rose(z8 N CA.)

I find the Gold Hill Luther Burbank garden more interesting than the downtown home and garden.
I forgot about Quarry Hill. Those places could be a nice day trip a long with a couple of wineries.
One thing I forgot to mention is the Berkeley Botanic garden. It's a beautiful place and there are roses too.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2014 at 8:28AM
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henry_kuska

Kim, since it is now possible to determine if these are the same strain of PNRSV or not, I would expect that that determination would be the next step.

If they are the same, then the determination that you mentioned should be done (of course it also could be possible that infection could go in both directions).

The exact determination of infection route may be more than a scientific curiosity as was discussed in an earlier thread (the USDA's published concern that virused ornamentals could pass viruses to nearby food crops).

    Bookmark   August 4, 2014 at 10:41PM
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roseseek

The common bind weed here is plain, light pink. It gets knocked down with Round Up but comes back up all over. It's a common component in commercial bird food. The client who grows the large Annie Laurie McDowell HAD a bird feeder in her side garden over a decade ago. That's where the bind weed started. I dig it out deeply. I've Round Up'ed it repeatedly. I don't let it grow more than a few inches so I can dowse it with the herbicide and the blamed stuff still comes back. Too bad the PNRSV isn't fatal to it! Kim

    Bookmark   August 4, 2014 at 10:57PM
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seil zone 6b MI

You don't want to use Bayer 3 in 1 anyway. Because of the mixture none of the three things it's supposed to do are particularly effective. You don't want to use a fungicide and a fertilizer when all you want is an insecticide. Find an insecticide that lists rose midge as one of the insects it's effective on and go with that.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2014 at 4:40PM
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