22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
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kublakan,
You wrote:
'My rotation:
Week 1 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC
Week 3 - Bayer Advanced
Week 5 - Banner Maxx, Conserve, Dithane SC
Week 7 - Ortho Rose Disease and Insect'
In reality I believe you are using two different neonicotinoid insecticides (imidacloprid, acetamiprid) out of the 4 insecticides you are using in your 'rotation'. These are of the same Mode of Action Group so rotating them makes no sense from the point of view of resistance management.
Similarly with the 2 out of the 3 of the fungicides you are 'rotating' (tebuconazole and triticonazole) both of them are triazoles in the same Mode of Action Group. In addition you are also regulalrly using spinosad which does result in resistance build up. On top of that you are using a pyrethroid insecticide once and mancozeb fungicide twice. The only drastic ingredient out of the ones you're using which does not supposedly suffer from resistance buildup is mancozeb.
With regards to malathion, fwiw it's banned in the EU.
"USEPA has classified mancozeb as a probable human carcinogen, and it is identified under Proposition 65 as known to the state to cause cancer."
From: http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/dept/prec/2014/011714_risk_assess_prioritization_update.pdf
I have an old Rosanna, which was listed as a climber when I got it (from Vintage) as an own root. It has never climbed for me, but then, Kordes uses the same names for roses over and over, and it is (very likely) not the same cultivar that Palatine is selling now, but rather a former iteration where Kordes used that name. Moreover, mine is "own root," which would certainly be less vigorous overall than most roses on multiflora roots, which is what Palatine uses. So, your "rosanna" rose may do well, but it is really just an experiment. But I do second Jeri's recommendation of Sombreuil. That one will scamper right up your tree, no problemo. Maybe try both of them -- one on each side and see who wins.
You know, the more I look at pictures of Stars and Stripes, I think that might be the rose you have. Sure is a pretty thing. I think Starts and Stripes is a Ralph Moore rose? I tend to love his roses. They do so well where I live, but then again, his nursery was just about 40 miles or so from me.
Thanks mustbnuts - we'll see if the later blooms of this rose (assuming there are any) turn out to have more petals, then it will look more like my Stars and Stripes (or Papageno, for that matter). The coloring certainly is a good match, but at least my S&S is more double than the photo seen. S&S is a tall rose, which would explain some of the lanky growth at first - I agree that this is a very nice rose. We'll see if we get any further blooms this season - we only have a month of blooming time to go, so it'd better hurry up if it's going to do something.
Cynthia
If you are in a cold region, I would recommend looking at Buck Griffith roses. He bred his roses to deal with extreme harsh environments. He tested his roses unprotected in mid-west winters where it can be brutal. Even though they can handle awful winters they are beautiful. I have enchanted autumn and quiteness even though I am in zone 10 just because I love them them and they smell great.
Even if theses are not your cup of tea, keep looking. I am sure you will find something out there that will not disappoint you.
Good Luck.
Belinda's Dream is at least root hardy for me in a zone 4 pocket of my yard, but I agree with posters here that say she likes heat. We get plenty of 90 and 100 degree days in the summer, relatively dry, and she'll bloom without balling. Not prolific bloom where I have her - part sun and cold to boot - but she at least has survived and bloomed some for about 7 years.
I agree that Buck roses are great - my favorite right near Belinda's Dream is Folksinger, and she blows Belinda out of the water with profusion of blooms even if it needs to be pruned to the ground.
Cynthia
Portulaca (rose moss) is one plant I seed between roses. It doesn't steal moisture from the rose roots, and that's important in my dry climate.
Homestead verbena stays low, is xeric, and the dark purple color seems to play well with all the rose colors.
Dianthus, the perennial, low growing, evergreen kind, is a nice low backdrop.
I tried the newer, shorter forms of nepeta the last few years, but it was too happy and crowded some of the shorter roses. The silvery blue foliage was a nice base in the rose garden, though.
I have a newer bed of pink drift roses, and found a geranium (pelargonium) that had a bloom of the same color and pattern, and that was a great combination until the roses grew larger. I don't know whether I'll dig the geraniums and store them over the winter, or start again next year.
In one bed, I have short lavender plants between the roses.
Victoria blue salvia works well with pink, red and purple roses.
Creeping phlox is attractive in spring before the roses get going, so I use it as a border in the perennial beds.
I'm always conscious of how much moisture the companion plants need, or how invasive the roots might be. Usually I mulch the roses in summer to conserve moisture, so the plants I choose have to be living mulch, sort of, and provide shade to the rose roots but not compete with them.
I'll try to remember to post some photos when I get to a McDonalds or somewhere with a fast wifi. My home service is excruciatingly slow at uploading anything. Just a slight disadvantage of country living.....
I live in North Florida and I have had them a year. I fertilize them once every 3months with rose and bloom and I have been spraying them with organic bug and disease control from Walmart buy while I was gone for 2 months they didn't get any thing but water my husband didn't do anything but water them they didn't get any proper attention like I would have done but I appreciate him watering them. :) but now I am home and want to get them pretty again.
I live in South Florida and have a couple of stick looking plants like yours. One is climbing America ( it still looks awful) and Kordes Perfecta. It was suggested to me to try alternate fungicides and my insecticides.
I have noticed a big difference in Kordes right away. Nothing as of yet on the America.
Good Luck.
Thanks Sara! I'm glad you agree ;-)
Sharon, I have two Cl Americas and they are both on Dr. Huey, so maybe that's our problem. My Pearly Gates is on Fortuniana and it's a winner. I bought Pearly Gates at the Cool Roses sale that I think we met (?). The Grace de Monaco (pictured above) was purchased at Pop's Nursery in Davie (they sell Nelson's roses for $16 each). I love Cool roses, but they are an hour's drive away from me, so they are not my favorite local nursery. I would suggest you take a trip to Nelson's on a Saturday morning at some point if you haven't done so already. It's a cool experience.
Kublakan,
Yes. I think I met you and SoFla briefly at Cool's Roses. I should have paid closer attention to those of you who were there - I didn't realize the wealth of knowledge and the helpfulness of the people that I was meeting. Duh. Shame on me.
Looking back I should have realized. I think it was SoFla that actually posted the sale date of Cool Roses.... I didn't even know Cool existed until she was kind enough to list it on this forum. Now you are doing the same of Nelson's.
I have not been to Nelsons. I did not know they existed. I will check them out, though unlike you I live only 10 minutes from Cool's Roses, so it might be hard to get me to travel very far to make a purchase.
I had been buying bare root roses at Sam's, Costco's and Kmart - treating them as annuals because of the root stock issue. I also purchase own root roses from mail order at Chamblees. So far the own roots have held up, but I am sure over time the nematodes will get them..... though I keep amending my soil. It is probably a losing battle though.
The hard part for me is I see all of these roses that I want and they don't necessarily come on fortuniana rootstock. Guess I am a kid in a candy store, knowing I will get a tummy ache and not caring until I actually eat all the candy and have to live with the consequences. Yes, I laminate over the poor dying rose, even though I knew it wasn't going to live..... Hopefully, now that I found places that carry fortuniana root stock I can curb my "appetite" to only those that will have a longer and healthier life.
Does Nelson's carry a wider variety or a different variety of roses than Cool's? Someone also mentioned KandM and they seem to have a few different varieties..... I kind of want the Black Baccara - just because.
Again, Thanks for all your input
Ann, if you put the quote into Google, you will find the following:
I was the one equating "good vigor" with a healthy immune system. My exact statement is: "I assume that the "good vigor" is to keep the immune system at its best."
If you can suggest any other meaning as to why they included "good vigor" under current control strategies, please share that meaning with us.
Sorry for the confusion. It is either Mavrik or Artic Circle (I don't know where #$%^^ I got Artic Ice, too many bottled water commercials I guess).
Here's Artic Circle
http://www.kandmroses.com/Roses%20Pages/HTgroups/edwards%20collection/Artic%20Circle.htm
...and Mavrik
http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=2.31710
I bought it at Cool Roses and I believe it wasn't labeled when I bought it either.
Thanks again for the help.
I am in lahore . It's very hot here. Have 4 cd grafted plants. They do really nice in heat. But the petals and flowers overall are very big so that means in heat shorter bloom life.
My summers are in the 90s and low 100s. Mine blows really fast and it's not in full sun all day. The first opening stage is quite lovely, but by the end of the day is fully open and done in about 2 days. I'd say it's more of a cool climate rose.