21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Problem here is we get a lot of rain and we get dew on the rose leaves almost every night so the rose leaves are wet until mid to late morning. I have noticed rose leaves being wet at 10pm-11pm some nights from dew.
So organic products just wash off and have to be reapplied so often that it seems like it causes more BS problems. Plus its a pain in the a**! lol

It must be our dew here, too, Jim. I have some really dry spots in my yard that also get a whole lot of wind, yet I still get fungal problems that require dampness. I mean these plants really bake, and the grass won't grow due to the sun, heat, and water stress. I do get a lot of dew, though, every morning and thunderstorms aren't rare here at night... bummer. It doesn't take many hours of dampness for some mean fungi.

Any type of rose can be grown in a pot if it's the appropriate size for the rose...but not INSIDE! Roses are not house plants. They need to be outside in the sunshine and fresh air. If you can amend the soil they will do fine in the ground too. Basic care is to keep them watered, fertilize them and prune them whether they are potted or in the ground. However, I don't think this is the right time of year to plant roses in Texas. You should check with a local rose society for the best time to plant in your area and for what types of roses do best in your area.

Hi PeaceLilySam:
Welcome! I've been growing roses less than a year, but I wanted to share the below link on container roses from my rose society. Seil is right; your local rose society can offer lots of advice. I live in a warm region in Southern California and the first 'newbie" mistake I made was thinking that roses in my area needed 6 hours of full sun. They fried, because I had them in clay pots and the intensity of sunlight was too severe. From my local rose society and forum members familiar with my zone, I learned that my young roses in my area would appreciate filtered sun (outdoors). I donated my clay pots to friends, because a clay pot is essentially a clay oven in warm regions. My roses have forgiven all my mistakes except the heat. But once I got through that one, I've learned they are a joy to grow.
Here is a link that might be useful: Container roses-Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society

Thanks so much, Ingrid! I haven't been taking pics lately because the garden is a bit dowdy now. I planned for blooms this part of the season to come from direct-sown perennials and self-seeding annuals to fill the spaces between the roses and perennials I put in as plants, but so few survived on rain alone. My landlord didn't come by to turn on the hose this year until after most of the seedlings bit the dust. I also noticed that while the thick layer of mulch I put down last year is keeping the soil below moist, the top layer drains too quickly to allow seedlings to grow within it.
So for now, I'm just tending what's there, which is mostly a sea of foliage with scattered blooms among some roses and some perennials and clematis. But I'll be correcting this for next year. I'm getting Oriental and Trumpet lilies (along with a bunch of early Spring bulbs) to plant in Autumn, which will be in their glory this time of year. And I'll be adding layers of my version of "Mel's Mix" on top of the mulch periodically through Spring to allow a better medium for germinating seeds, which I'll direct-sow again next year earlier in Spring than I did this year.
:-)
~Christopher



It may be interesting to compare the size of the pollen grains produced by the single with the size of the pollen grains produced by the normal flowers. I would expect that a local high school or college biology/botany lab could do it very quickly for you with a microscope. This may be a new way of producing diploids from tetraploids.


This rose produces perfect blooms every time. Speaking of time I've discovered over the years that this petite beauty is actually a really good garden rose. The shrub is just never going to be big. And yes Jeri, the short upright growth habit is perfect for a container. You really should try to find one grafted before it disappears completely from commerce. I don't think David Austin is offering her anymore. Pity.

It was planted in summer of 2012 and the shrub size is small. I wanted a compact rose shrub for my part shade, urban front garden.
Molineux - I'd love to see yours.
My DAs are thriving this year - no blackspot - but this has not been an average summer for us! Much cooler with very little humidity.


I was accidentally sent beauty secret ( for buff beauty) and it has been a delightful mistake! Lipstick red perfect blooms, no disease. Not sure where it will go in ground as I don't have any other reds. But I do love it ! I'll get a pic in a few days as more buds will open.


Ken, they only hold form for about a day before they open fully but I did sucessfully show a couple this spring.
Yes, some minis can and do get very large bushes but not all of them. X-Rated never gets bigger than 1 X 1 foot in a season but Softee will easily be 4 X 4 if I let it. You have to do a little research on them to know which ones are big and which ones are small plants.


I live in Roanoke and have contacted the director of the project. We discussed various option and I invited her to my place for the fall flush so she can see what sorts of roses do well here. She doesn't seem especially knowledgeable about roses and became excited when I mentioned Noisettes, the southern/USA rose. The old garden was exclusively Hybrid Teas and modern Floribundas and thus high maintenance. The volunteer brigade that looked after it has dissipated and RRD killed off most of what was left. She is very open to other alternatives. I look forward to the project. I also emailed her, throwing out some ideas. We'll see....

Pembroke, I'm just down the freeway from you and I have 2 of this rose. They're about 4yrs old now, both are own root and are just now coming into their own. The early years were full of spindly canes and slow growth but this year they are really taking off, full of nonstop buds. They are in full sun and get fed once a month with Mills Magic mix or rosetone. I had to cut them down to about a foot tall after this winter. That said, it's not a huge rose, mine are 3x3 very full plants right now. HTH

I have 2 own root PJP2 roses and struggle to keep them below 6 feet. Mine grew 3 feet in the first year and is now in its 4th year. They repeat quickly with large blossoms,around 4-6 inches across and with a high petal count. I live in USDA zone 9 about half way between San Francisco and Yosemite National Park in California. Roses begin to bloom here in late March to early April and continue to around the middle of December- a very long growing period. This is the best white hybrid tea that I have ever grown, and I have grown quite a few. Its a shame that it doesn't perform better in other areas as it is a truly magnificent rose here.

FWIW -- Some years ago, in another drought cycle (tho, one less lengthy, and less-severe than the current one) we did buy and use silicon granules.
We found them to be most-effective if used when planting bare root roses, because the [completely hydrated] silicon chunklets could be evenly distributed through the soil.
(NOTE: DO NOT MIX DRY GRANULES IN THE SOIL, AND THEN PLANT IT, AND WET IT. The granules increase asonishingly in size, when fully hydrated.) They can actually push the whole plant right out of a bed, or a pot.
If you want to add them to an established planting, you can "drill" a narrow hole close to the plant, and drop in just a few granules.
When used optimally, the granules really DID make a difference when a bed of roses went un-watered. This observation, when a section of an automated watering system failed, un-noticed.
We found that fine feeder roots really did attach themselves to the hydrated silicon chunklets, and thus were able to suck water from them.
But whether or not they make a difference in a three-year or more drought? That's difficult to say.
Over time, the granules became difficult to find locally, AND more and more expensive. We took to using them ONLY for small, potted, own-root plants -- and finally stopped using them altogether.
If you have a very large rose garden, they may be helpful, but you will need to have very deep pockets.

They are not talking about what is known as water crystals. This is about silicates such as discussed in this earlier thread.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg030010308429.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

I'm not sure what your picture is supposed to be showing that pertains to BS and missing leaves. What I see is a beautiful rose with many leaves, including new leaves, and lots of gorgeous blooms.
So what is the problem?
If you are asking what to do about BS, get some Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs (get that name--NOT one of the other Bayer products)--at Lowes or online. Buy a small sprayer container for about $20 -- I got mine at Home Depot but other similar stores probably also carry them. Follow Bayer's directions carefully, but make sure you watered the roses deep and well the day before, and pick an early morning time for spraying, before the breeze picks up and swats you in the face with fungicide.
Spray with that once or twice at 10 day interval, and probably you will have killed the BS. And with really hot weather coming, you may not have any more BS attacks until cooler weather in the Fall becomes more conducive the BS.
But based on your pic, I'd say keep on watering your rose and enjoy it!
Kate



hoovb, that photo is stunning!
thanks. just a lucky shot.