22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thanks so much, everyone!!! I did take a look at it again, but I didn't see *anything,* (well except for there are still aphids around...) so I don't know what to think. I will look up some thrip pictures and at least I will know what to look for. I didn't see any spider-y looking things either.
It is in a version of 5-1-1. As close as I could get to it anyhow. So, it's mostly bark chips. I may have overfertilized I suppose -- I put in Osmo Plus when I planted it and I put on fish emulsion every week or so. (Someone said the proliferation could be a sign of too much fert -- so maybe that's chewing the leaves too? I'll stop with the emulsion for a while.)
Thanks again! I really appreciate the help.
The last year that I had them really bad, I filled up about 10 of the beetle bags in less than a week! I used them in conjunction with hand picking. I hope I never have them that bad again. They devastated a peach tree that was covered with huge peaches almost ready to pick in one morning! The next year I used milk jugs with the bait inside and only filled it up partially. The last few years I have only had a few. I figure I prevented millions of JB from being born.
Did I say any differently? Sulfate reduction during boggy conditions results in lowered pH when the soil dries up because, as you mention, the reduced sulphur gets oxidized. Indicative of boggy conditions is the rotten egg smell of hydrogen sulfide. Also, did I say any differently with regards to the ammonium or aluminum reactions?
I'm talking about rocks. My soil is very rocky, and over the years as I've worked on it, I've dug up tons of them. many are very large and quite flat, so I can definitely see them as being appropriate stepping stones. I guess my thought was that, since the paths in question are already mulched with cardboard and on top of that, wood chips,the chips would help do the "bedding in" job. Maybe it would work???
Glad to know that you're finally managing your sawfly infestation. Roses are beautiful plants, and it's a shame to see them get destroyed by pests. They seem to love the flavor of rose leaves for some reason. Just keep up with your pest control measures, do companion planting, and always do regular inspection so that you can control your sawfly problem. Good luck!
Use spinosad for relatively 'mild' treatment of lepidoptera, hymenoptera and thysanoptera. Spray in the evening after bees and flying predators have gone to bed. Spinosad WILL harm bees if it is sprayed when they are active but is relatively harmless when it dries up. For lepidoptera larvae Bt var. kurstaki may be preferable unless the particular insect has developed resistance to it. Regularly using wide range kill-all pesticides like carbamates (e.g Sevin) or organophosphates is not a good idea either for one's health or for long term pest management.
I read that when I see the flowers start to droop I've waited 1 day too long to water...the flowers are def not drooping at all yet...the second bush in pictures seems to be doing worse than first bush, it also has a bit of shade from a tree like I mentioned in the late morning idk if that could be why...there are some dry crunchy leaves on the bush as well
A little layer of compost will help your roses get through. You are doing good. Every thing is OK. The rose you are growing is a newer rose. Some of the nurseries where we live sell roses that dont work well in the Northeast. It is good to find a local nursery who selects plants that will work. I like the David Austin rose Alnwick Castle. If you search some posts on the roses forum , you can find some folks that have a rose they grow that has a good track record of growing in your area.
Yes, they will. You forget about the minor detail known as the January thaw. After the temperatures are consistently freezing, they then become consistently above freezing for a while. And when the temperatures go above freezing, all the nice snow cover melts, and you end up with a slimy mess of winter protection. Which is why it isn't the world's brightest idea in a lot of places. The only winter protection I'm convinced really works here is a garage which involves a roof to keep the wet out.
There are a *lot* of roses that are commonly listed as 'hardy' that cannot look -10F in the face without breaking out in tears and running for cover. Alchemist is one that I didn't think I could grow. Then I tried it and found out I was right the first time.
Sidos-house, from what I read the rose replant disease is mainly something gardeners in England and Europe keep an eye out for. They may have to switch out the soil, but I don't think we have anything of the sort in the US, so I wouldn't worry about it at all. Adding a few nutrients like manure or compost to the soil can be a good thing - I throw in a handful or so of alfalfa hay for a quick start - but really finding winter hardy roses is a matter of experimenting what does well for you in your yard. Many zone 7 HTs do fine in my particular zone 5, and some roses rated to zone 5 and below have shrunk away in disgust at me over the winter. Anything that wants acid soil, for instance, hasn't got a chance in my yard whatever it is supposedly rated.
Cynthia
Kate: I really love your Jubilee photo. I just got that one this spring. I hope it looks like yours someday!
I am planning to put my JC by a bench so hopefully I will be able to enjoy the nodding flowers if it doesn't get too tall.
This is all good info! I just got Jubilee Celebration and Queen of Sweden yesterday and plan to plant them tomorrow!