22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I read that when I see the flowers start to droop I've waited 1 day too long to water...the flowers are def not drooping at all yet...the second bush in pictures seems to be doing worse than first bush, it also has a bit of shade from a tree like I mentioned in the late morning idk if that could be why...there are some dry crunchy leaves on the bush as well
A little layer of compost will help your roses get through. You are doing good. Every thing is OK. The rose you are growing is a newer rose. Some of the nurseries where we live sell roses that dont work well in the Northeast. It is good to find a local nursery who selects plants that will work. I like the David Austin rose Alnwick Castle. If you search some posts on the roses forum , you can find some folks that have a rose they grow that has a good track record of growing in your area.
Yes, they will. You forget about the minor detail known as the January thaw. After the temperatures are consistently freezing, they then become consistently above freezing for a while. And when the temperatures go above freezing, all the nice snow cover melts, and you end up with a slimy mess of winter protection. Which is why it isn't the world's brightest idea in a lot of places. The only winter protection I'm convinced really works here is a garage which involves a roof to keep the wet out.
There are a *lot* of roses that are commonly listed as 'hardy' that cannot look -10F in the face without breaking out in tears and running for cover. Alchemist is one that I didn't think I could grow. Then I tried it and found out I was right the first time.
Sidos-house, from what I read the rose replant disease is mainly something gardeners in England and Europe keep an eye out for. They may have to switch out the soil, but I don't think we have anything of the sort in the US, so I wouldn't worry about it at all. Adding a few nutrients like manure or compost to the soil can be a good thing - I throw in a handful or so of alfalfa hay for a quick start - but really finding winter hardy roses is a matter of experimenting what does well for you in your yard. Many zone 7 HTs do fine in my particular zone 5, and some roses rated to zone 5 and below have shrunk away in disgust at me over the winter. Anything that wants acid soil, for instance, hasn't got a chance in my yard whatever it is supposedly rated.
Cynthia
Please read this thread before jumping to conclusions regarding Knock Out roses and rose rosette disease (RRD). Remove knockouts to reduce risk of RRD?
We know that the mite that is the host for the disease travels on the wind, and they are more likely to land on large plants, which Knock Out can be. It is also possible that the landscaped plants were affected by the use of herbicides (glyphosate) near (or on) the plants, which results in symptoms that look similar to the effects of RRD.
Here is a list I found on roses that are good for the pacific northwest area. I am in an opposite growing zone from you. Hot and steamy summers and cool dry winters.
Hopefully someone from your specific area can comment on the roses on the list or which ones do best for them. This nursery is in Oregon so they might know what they are talking about LOL.
http://www.heirloomroses.com/info/care/roses/best-roses-for-the-pacific-northwest/
I am also adding a link to roses that are grown in the Olympia Rose Society 's Centennial Rose Garden. If you look under the different classes of roses they will list varieties.
http://pnwdistr.ipower.com/Articles/centennialgarden.htm
Thanks everyone for helpful information. I stopped watering the plant. Can it survive? I notice the top sprouts of the green cane turned brown but leaves are still green. I am worrying I am going to lose it soon. I admit the pots are not big enough for roses, but I don't have a house now. I love roses and thought I could gain some experience from growing roses in pots. I will put them down to the ground once I get a house if they're still alive.
All the new growth, or just some of it? If the latter, check to see if the bad shoots all stem from the same basal cane, which has something wrong near the base.
If the whole plant is collapsing, voles may have eaten the roots. Rock the plant to check anchorage and probe for voids in the soil.
Then there are a few wilt or blight diseases that are uncommon but quite destructive. These would need to be ID'd by a plant pathology lab. I don't know if NYC residents have access to the NY agricultural / cooperative extension service. Check the county listings.
You know jjpeace, the chicken wire is perfect for clematis to climb! We are building a fence out of wood posts and chicken wire this summer to keep the rabbits and my dogs out. The only thing that makes me okay with this ugly fence is that I can grow clematis on it!
Speaking of Peace, I am praying it will survive. It has a little green cane but no buds yet. It is a strong plant and it is at least 3 years. I can find Peace at most nurseries but I hoped it would survive. I bought Chicago Peace and planted next to it hoping it will compliment it.
I grew a Eden in a pot for about 3 years, then I made a mistake put it in the ground without covering the bud union. Now I have 23 rose trees in pots, they are doing great. If you're in a warmer zone, you'd need a huge pot like Jeri has mentioned. What about a rose tree? :-)
I used to have a very large Lavender Lassie in a big pot. I'm not sure how big the pot was..maybe 26 or 30". It rooted through the hole. I have a Constance Spry in a pot by a fence. It's in a dry area crowded by tree roots so I put it in a pot. It too has rooted through the hole and is a pretty big plant now. I'm finding that it's a pretty good way to get a plant established in a dry area. I don't water that Constance Spry for the most part. I think I used to water it before it had sent roots through the hole.
Gee, I don't know, they're both really gorgeous! I think PG is going to get taller and JG will be wider so it might depend on the space you want to put it in.