22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You know jjpeace, the chicken wire is perfect for clematis to climb! We are building a fence out of wood posts and chicken wire this summer to keep the rabbits and my dogs out. The only thing that makes me okay with this ugly fence is that I can grow clematis on it!
Speaking of Peace, I am praying it will survive. It has a little green cane but no buds yet. It is a strong plant and it is at least 3 years. I can find Peace at most nurseries but I hoped it would survive. I bought Chicago Peace and planted next to it hoping it will compliment it.
I grew a Eden in a pot for about 3 years, then I made a mistake put it in the ground without covering the bud union. Now I have 23 rose trees in pots, they are doing great. If you're in a warmer zone, you'd need a huge pot like Jeri has mentioned. What about a rose tree? :-)
I used to have a very large Lavender Lassie in a big pot. I'm not sure how big the pot was..maybe 26 or 30". It rooted through the hole. I have a Constance Spry in a pot by a fence. It's in a dry area crowded by tree roots so I put it in a pot. It too has rooted through the hole and is a pretty big plant now. I'm finding that it's a pretty good way to get a plant established in a dry area. I don't water that Constance Spry for the most part. I think I used to water it before it had sent roots through the hole.
I have a Darlow's Enigma, it's pretty much cane hardy. and in blooms all the time. I am in zone 6a.
Michael, there are rose species native to alkaline soils as my local R. sempervirens can attest to. Garden Roses and rootstocks being the mixed bloods that they are their response to soil pH vary widely. Of course having a pH of around 6-6.5 will keep almost any rose very happy but, compared to some other plants, they tolerate variations pretty well.
Our water varies between 8.3 and 8.5. Our soil probably isn't much better.
Roses with a multiflora background come here to die. So do most rugosas. Teas and Chinas tolerate our conditions well, and so do most Noisettes. That's handy, since those are the roses that best deal with our weather conditions.
For US, the pH of our soil/water is a major consideration in selecting roses.
Keeping them watered in Oahu is no problem (I think we've had rain every night for the past two months) ... frustrating since now I have to worry about black spot In addition to thrips and now the roundup damage. Luckily half my roses are in another part of the property.
I will be watching out for new canes and what kind of growth they have, hoping I won't need to dump any that I really want to keep.
Its Roundup because it's affected all the plants at the same time in that same area with those spindly new growth things but it's not an explosion of new growth. The growth too is red on some of them but eventually turns green.
In blackspot country, water when the leaves will dry completely before dark, not in late evening. I water in the morning for this reason.
Don't use sprinklers in the sun, especially with high temps or low humidity, as a significant amount of water will evaporate before it sinks into the soil.
In areas with powdery mildew but little or no blackspot, overhead watering in the wee hours helps to control mildew.
Michael is giving you the ideal situations. However, in practice I water when I can and that's usually in the afternoon, unfortunately, when it's hot. If you have a timer system that's great. You can set the times to the ideal but when you water by hand you just do the best you can and hope for the best. I really do try not to water in the evening but sometimes it's a choice between that and no water at all. And then Mother Nature never times her watering at all, lol!
All the new growth, or just some of it? If the latter, check to see if the bad shoots all stem from the same basal cane, which has something wrong near the base.
If the whole plant is collapsing, voles may have eaten the roots. Rock the plant to check anchorage and probe for voids in the soil.
Then there are a few wilt or blight diseases that are uncommon but quite destructive. These would need to be ID'd by a plant pathology lab. I don't know if NYC residents have access to the NY agricultural / cooperative extension service. Check the county listings.