22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
http://www.paulbardenroses.com/hybridteas/soleildor.html
Good history of yellow roses
The active ingredient in Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs is tebuconazole. This compound is "likely" an effective endocrine disruptor. One of the most recent (2014) reviewed, published scientific papers is (fortunately) available, in full, to the general public. The link below gives the rose forum discussion of this paper.
The actual paper is at:
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214750014000262
This is where the EPA is/was, concerning a ban, as of 2014:
http://www.apsnet.org/meetings/Documents/2014_meeting_abstracts/aps2014abS74.htm
I'd say that some good general advice is to learn about the various types of roses and how you can use them in your garden. Generally, Hybrid Teas are the divas of the rose world, being bred for large, cut-worthy, beautiful, but fewer blooms on sometimes/often temperamental plants. Floribundas were created to provide color impact by interbreeding Hybrid Teas (generally single, large blooms) with Polyanthas (clusters of small blooms) to get something in between. Polyanthas themselves are great for easy-care color on (generally) smaller plants but with a more limited color-range than their Floribunda descendants. Miniatures can vary from the those which are like tiny Polyanthas or Chinas to others that grow larger but retain small foliage and blooms -- you'll have to research them individually to know what you're getting. Shrub roses are a bit of a catch-all, and there are several sub-groups, such as Hybrid Musks (some of which are like big Polyanthas, others are sem-climbing), Rugosas, Hybrid Kordesii (these two are more often grown in cold-climates), and various species-hybrids which take more after their wild ancestors in habit but with some "refinement" of their blooms. Within the classification of Shrubs are David Austin's English Roses, which again are a mixed bag, united only by their breeder who sought to emulate the old rose "look" in modern repeat-blooming roses.
Among the antiques you'll find the old European once-blooming types like Gallicas, Damasks, Centifolias, Albas, Pimpinellifolias, Hybrid Chinas, Hybrid Bourbons, and a few others. Some may wonder why, with so many repeat-blooming roses, we should bother with the old once-blooming varieties. Well, in a mixed garden, they provide an explosion of color (and, usually, fragrance) in their shorter season of bloom -- rather like many other non-rose blooming shrubs like lilacs or azaleas. While a garden of only once-blooming roses will be rather boring for most of the year, there is definitely a place for them in a mixed garden. Also among the once-blooming roses are various ramblers and climbers which provide similar exuberant abundance of color during their respective seasons -- if you've ever seen arbors or houses or even trees festooned with rose blooms, you'll have seen how the once-blooming ramblers also have their place.
There are also a few types of repeat-blooming antiques. Based on your area, you're in a warm-enough climate to grow Chinas and (probably) Teas. These two groups brought the reblooming trait into virtually all repeat-blooming types of roses. Chinas would be akin to the Polanthas (from which they descend) in that they provide at least a few blooms throughout the growing season. Teas generally have more intricate blooms, and often more fragrance, and often can grow to become rather large shrubs over time. Noisettes arose from a cross between Chinas and the old Musk rose, and are somewhat like large Polanthas with more fragrant blooms in shades of pink through white. Tea-Noisettes are often used as repeat-blooming climbers, and like their name implies, they are something between Teas and Noisettes. Bourbons are a varied group, but generally they provide the fragrance of the old European once-blooming roses on plants that either bloom in multiple flushes throughout the season, or two flushes -- once in late Spring, and again in late Summer to Autumn. Portlands are basically repeat-blooming Damasks with a Gallica-like growth habit, sometimes a tad taller. Hybrid Perpetuals are a very mixed bag -- some grow like Bourbons, some like Portlands, some like something else entirely. Generally, they provide a main flush in late Spring and bloom again after the heat of Summer has passed -- if provided another round of fertilizer and given ample water.
If you're wondering which roses to add to your garden, my advice would be to imagine how you'd want your rose to grow in that particular spot, and seek the plant before the bloom. For example, if you want your rose to be an arching shrub, don't get a Hybrid Tea and think you can train or prune it to grow that way. This will avoid buying a particular rose because of its pretty flower only to find that it doesn't "do" what you want. Take a look online for more detailed definitions and descriptions of the various classes of roses to get an understanding of what will work for you. Also seek out any local public gardens -- especially if the collection goes beyond modern roses. Then, when you find a few that catch your eye, check them out individually by searching their names at HelpMeFind to see comments, references, and pictures.
:-)
~Christopher
I don't know if you have a Whole Foods Market near you, but for your zone, I was told they were selling DA roses, specifically Lady of Shalott around Mother's Day for 19.99. Here's the link:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2807749/austin-roses-at-whole-foods
I have been to both Trader Joe`s and Walmart, and neither one had anything. Of course roses are just starting to be sold here. I guess last year some places ordered early and then they got frozen and looked like "hell" according to one nursery. I think I will be happy with Tropicana. So now I have a new Firefighter and Neil Diamond, both from Edmunds, and a Chrysler Imperial and an Oklahoma from Home Depot, as well as Tropicana. Thanks again!
Rosecandy, those were taken in the morning lol. My phone camera has problems probably been dropped too many times. Its almost time for an upgrade so...lol. My regular camera has issues as well so I'm making due for awhile.
Nikansi. Interesting about the Novalis not having any scent there. It is pretty warm and humid here so maybe the scent is stronger? I have a really sensitive nose and can usually smell stuff others say they can't smell very well. DH can never smell anything unless its really strong lol. The scent was stronger in the morning when the bloom first opened. You have to put your nose up to the flower though.
Mayurkirti - I was thinking about things I have read by Ann Peck regarding her research into RRD, and I wanted to say that if I were you I would not re-plant a rose in this spot. RRD is transmitted by tiny mites that travel on the wind currents. Ann found evidence that tall roses and roses in spots where the currents dip or drop were more likely to become infected as the wind deposited the mites there. That tall rose up against that board fence made me think that if the wind brought the mites from somewhere in your area to that spot once, it may again.
Just a thought. As I said before, I'm no expert in the disease and it has not reached northern Michigan - yet - so I've yet to see it here, thank heavens. But I have seen herbicide damage in a member of my rose society's garden that caused me to research carefully and although herbicides can cause something similar to RRD symptoms, there are subtle differences as Patty W. said. I'd urge you to remove and bag this entire rose and plant some other type of shrub or perennial in its place. And then keep a close watch on your other two roses in future. Somewhere upwind of you there are other infected roses...
Here btw is the link to Ann's e-book on the subject for anyone wanting more info.
There is a time when Aphids are going to leave but isn't it worth something if you can keep them away even before it reaches that time?
That's from the standpoint of those people that get tons of Aphids... Aphids are not a problem here to even worry about...
Wow, James, your Mojave is stunning! Thanks for sharing, it's so interesting to see the different hues that roses take. Mine doesn't get that pink here in the cold north, here is a picture of mine from last year...
I never thought about it looking like a desert sunset but now that I hear that analogy I think it is right on.
Absolutely adore this rose.
Oooh, I like it! I've been trying to get this rose for several yrs. It always seems to end up being mismarked. I think this time I got the real thing tho, as I got it from Rogue Valley Roses. It's still a small own-root, so it will be a bit before I get to see blooms like either one of yours. Can't wait. I'm hoping it looks more like yours tho, James, because I like the coloring and the heavier veining.
It would be kinda tough and awkward to have a Standard on Fortuniana root stock. I did most of my rose growing (30+ yrs) in central and S.E. FL. and I can't think of too many roses grafted on to fortuniana that would stay small and light enough to work as a Standard. You would have to box the fortuniana stock with 4 metal rods and then have at least 3 metal rods to hold up the bush itself to keep it from breaking off from the weight of the bush. Then you have lost the "tree" effect. Even you're mini's get very large on fortuniana. Coolroses in Palm Beach would be your best bet. Then it would probably be "custom" graft, which would be a little pricy.
When I put my Sonia Rykiel in the ground 6 months ago it was a flimsy little thing and with very thin canes that flop all over the place. Over spring and summer it has grown into a very dense mount of 4 x 4 feet with lots of basal canes as thick as my thumb. It flowers continuously and just about every single flower are packed with loads of perfectly arranged petals and are very large. They want to bloom several flowers per shoot but I disbud to only one per stem. The basal shoot that come up can carry 20 or more flowers if you do not disbud. Mine is grafted on Fortuniana and gets full sun in the middle of a paved area so extremely hot and dry in summer but this rose has not had a single scortched leaf I am very impressed! Also this rose is able to produce multiple side shoots from a single node. If a branch arches down it will produce side shoots along the entire cane rather than at the end like most other roses do. The overall effect is an extremely vigorous and dense bush with hundreds of large flowers which open in succession rather than all together. Did I mention mine is only 6 months old? I could not believe how quickly this rose grows. Repeat is very quick. The shoots will start growing before the last flush is over. I give my roses lots of potassium and sunlight so no weak stems. Even though the side shoots may be quite thin they still hold the weight of the large flowers. This rose does not rest in the 40 degree C summer heat. I do need to cut the flowers and bring them indoors if I don't want them to scortch in the heat but they last well as cut flowers so it works out fine. I think this would have to be one of the most floriferous roses I have ever grown. I read somewhere else that some people had problems with weak stems and the flowers are in the mud but not for me! It obviously enjoys lots of dry heat. Another one that flowers to this extent is Happy Child but it is not as good a cut flower. My Evelyn grew even bigger than Sonia Rykiel in 6 months but it put lots of energy in its long stems at the expense of flowers so I would recommend Sonia Rykiel over Evelyn if you like to see lots of flowers and a beautiful filled-in rounded bush.
Papa Meilland is awesome, and also I still grow an old JP rose called Patrician, always the first rose to bloom in spring for me, great fragrance, pretty hardy, and decent disease resistance.....
Here are some photos to tempt:
Firefighter
Papa Meilland
Both smell divine right now... yum!