22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Here's Augusta before the buds have fully opened. Her colors vary from pale peaches and pinks to bright orangy apricots. Ddiane

Let me tell everyone that the pictures on this thread have been so exquisite!!!! Such eye candy! This has been such a fun and interesting thread to see which roses have done well for everyone this year. Thanks for sharing your pictures and input on your roses. Lots of new roses and several that I would definitely like to get my hands on in the coming year. It was interesting to see how we all voted this year and there was a 3-way tie for the 2014 rose of the year........Julia's child, Love song, and Pope John Paul II. The runners up or ones that got more than one vote were: Beverly, double delight, mutabilis, lady of shalott, south Africa, peace, gold medal, Marie van houtte, tiffany, belindas dream, hot cocoa, Gemini, and don juan. I think we should do this again next year to see how we all fared and see if our favorites are still the same or have changed given all the variables we may encounter in the coming year. Thanks to all who participated and Happy New Year to everyone! May everything come up rosey in the new year! Shannon

Welcome back, Diane, and a very happy new year to you and everyone else. Your rose is so beautiful; I really love all the different shadings of Augusta Luise, not to mention its ruffles.

Here in a very southern part of southern California we've had snow and temperatures hovering around the 30's at night. Before that we had a bit of rain so all that moisture is welcome. Further inland there was even more snow, and naturally everyone freaks out as though this were some incredible phenomenon. In Minnesota they probably would have considered this a balmy spring day.

Ingrid

I'm glad too, to see you posting again, Diane. And thankyou, for raving about Julia Child. I have my own now, and she's so healthy and well-shaped, and takes baking afternoon sun without batting an eye.

I got some new ones in last spring and was delighted with all of them. Chartreuse de Parme was my favorite, just a gorgeous color, very full blooms, intoxicating scent and the blooms were extremely long lasting. I remember the fragrance persisted for at least a week. The plant seems to have good vigor too. Dames de Chenonceau is gorgeous, Henri Matisse has big striped blooms with good repeat,
Nahema has a powerful fragrance , exquisite beauty and good vigor. Alfred Sisley is one of my favorite striped roses. It's incredibly healthy, repeats fast, love the colors, and it has a lot of hips in fall. Makes a good shrubby plant. I'm impressed with Delbards.

Delbards are spectacular, but do better in warm climates (on a whole). Delbard has a large variety however. Some more cold hardy than others. But a lot of them do best in warm climates. And not all have scent. I grow Eden, papi Delbard, nahema and dames de chennonceau ( my favorite of all). There are SO many types of roses however, so don't limit yourself to one breeder. See what does best in your climate. There is a rose (many in fact) for every garden.

I do appreciate the further information on Florentina. It is good to know that the canes are easily trainable which makes it a good candidate for my fence in full sun. I was hoping that there would be *some* fragrance as Palatine's description says "fragrant rose" - I'd even settle for it being faint, not expecting the fragrance of an old rose or even an Austin. Well, I guess I will just have to give it a try. Disease free is another desirable quality in my no-spray garden, so thank you Cynthia for your experience.
I'll let you all know down the road how it does for me!

We try to be honest about the fragrance and not promise what we don't think is present. I spend a lot of time evaluating fragrance in roses. You are right it seems there are not many fragrant climbers. I think Kordes Golden Gate has moderate spicy fragrance. Another Kordes with very good fragrance and very good cold hardiness is Laguna. There are repeated very good reports on cold hardiness in the Midwest. it is an ADR winner with really great disease resistance.
Chris

I grew Blaze in a pot and it did great. You do have to have a BIG pot though. Not just for the root system but also to counter weight all that top growth so it doesn't topple over. The pot I used was about 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 feet and I had a small trellis in the pot to tie the canes to. It was in that pot for 5 years before I got it in the ground. Now that I think of it, it bloomed more in the pot than it does in the ground!

Here's Crepuscule growing in a large pot by my front door. It is rarely watered and has a lot of competition from English ivy growing in the same pot. I throw my mop water on it.
It is starting to decline some but has done fairly well for five years or so. I have a large Constance Spry plant in a pot but it rooted through the hole a long time ago. Used to have a big Lavender Lassie in a big pot. It got too big for the area it was in. It also had rooted through the hole.

You might try Jack Falker's method of using leaves to protect them. Keep in mind it's cold winds that cause the most damage. So surrounding them with a wind barrier is the best thing you can do.

Also if you lose some of the tops that's okay. You'll just prune that off in early spring. focus on the bottom 12" or so.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jack's blog post

I haven't seen any actual leaves yet but there is definitely some plump red leaf buds out there. Nothing you can really do about it. Just leave them alone and hope for the best. This freeze and thaw stuff is the real culprit that kills most roses. And the freeze is already on its way for this coming week. If the roses went into winter healthy and you gave the crowns some protection even if you lose some of the canes they should still be fine and come back next spring.

"Preliminary data showed that epsom salt application (in addition to N-P-K), on a monthly schedule, did not reduce the disease incidence but did reduce defoliation compared to plants receiving no secondary nutrients. However, the plants treated with epsom salts or CaCl2 were less vigorous and produced fewer flowers than nontreated plants or plants treated with calcium sulfate (Figure 2)."

http://www.aaes.auburn.edu/comm/pubs/highlightsonline/summer96/blackspot.htm
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"As to the claim of the effectiveness of Epsom salts to combat fungus infections in plants, no real evidence supports this. Reports done by Washington State University and other research facilities have shown that Epsom salts have no affect on apple scab or other mildews. However, many gardening enthusiasts and websites, including the National Gardening Association, say that applying Epsom salts can produce healthier plants by providing magnesium to the soil and reducing leaf loss."

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/epsom-salt-remedy-plant-fungus-89103.html

Here is a link that might be useful: link for first epson study

I gathered from Bierkreek that adding sugar to one's soil helps stimulate the growth of mychrorriza funghi (please excuse eventual spelling error). In fact, this year,I decided to try sprinkling white sugar around in my garden; NOT hundreds of pounds of it,of course;just a bit in each new rose hole,plus a couple bags sprinkled sparsely around on the soil. I can't see what harm it could do...

Amanda, I wish I could say that isn't true. But I am afraid it IS true. So sad.

I have this one along with Hypnotized and Neil Diamond on order for the spring. Can't wait for some new striped roses, they are always such a surprise with every bloom! I can't find either Hypnotized or Daring Spirit on hmf just yet but I loved your shot of Neil Diamond!!

Andrea

OK, so to answer the question "Shouldn't this be considered as evidence that PNRSV can infect roses by mechanisms other than grafting?", I say "No, because other methods of infection were not excluded, and thus this fails to disprove your null hypothesis."

:-)

~Christopher

Christopher, could you give a reference for your use of "Null hypothesis"?

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The following was stated: "Henry's science background is in Chemistry. Mine was originally Animal Science for Pre-Vet, then a recent "second time around" at college for Psychology and Physical Anthropology, with special interests in genetics, ethology, and a dash of neural and hormonal influences on behavior. So neither of us is really the one to ask about plant viruses. That person would be Dr. Malcolm Manners."
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H.Kuska comment. A Ph.D degree in Physical Chemistry is expected to prepare a scientist to investigate the physics, and chemistry involved in understanding nature. It is a very broad theoretical based major in nature understanding.

Some examples can be found in the following links:

http://degreedirectory.org/articles/Colleges_with_Physical_Chemistry_Degree_Programs_FAQs.html

"Physical chemistry seeks to understand the physical and scientific basis of molecular properties and chemical phenomena. It can be used to understand how proteins fold, how nanostructures form and why holes in the ozone layer originated"

http://degreedirectory.org/directory/category/Physical_Science/Chemistry_Sciences/Theoretical_and_Physical_Chemistry.html
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Regarding Dr. Manners knowledge and my knowledge of rose viruses. In almost any field there are more than one Ph.D. scientist that can contribute to the field.

This is illustrated in this particular situation by the citations in one of the most recent rose viruses reviewed published scientific papers.

Dr. Manners is cited for his: " Manners MM (1997) Effects of rose mosaic disease on performance of hybrid tea roses in Florida. Proc Fla State Hortic Soc 110:118��"121"

This is the context for the use of his presented paper: "Previous reports have shown that symptom expression, virus distribution and virus detection can be influenced by several factors including cultivar, changing seasons/weather and growing conditions (Manners 1997; Sala-Rejczak and Paduch-Cichal 2005; Sertkaya 2010; Wong et al. 1988)."

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I am cited for the following paper: "Kuska H (2003) Can North American rose hybridizers use pollen from virus infected roses? Rose Hybridizers Assoc Newsl 34:7��"10"

This is the context for the use of my paper: "PNRSV is known to be transmitted mechanically, by root grafting and by seed (Abdel-Salam et al. 2008; Golino et al. 2011). The virus may be transmitted by pollen in rose although this hasn’t been fully ascertained (Kuska 2003)."

AND

"Reports of pollen transmission of ApMVin rose are inconclusive (Kuska 2003), but in view of the characteristics of other ilarviruses, it is possible that ApMV could be dispersed by pollen."

I feel that the appearance of any reference (unless being attacked) in a reviewed scientific journal means that the authors, reviewers, and editor feel that it has scientific merit for being included.

Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent rose research virus paper

This post was edited by henry_kuska on Fri, Dec 26, 14 at 10:53

Usually this time of year is pretty damp and the roses shouldn't need extra watering. They are dormant so they're not using a lot of water anyway. They do need some water over the winter but if you get rain and snow that should be more than enough.

I wrapped the HTs in the front yard with burlap today--it was 51 degrees! A wrap a burlap prevents the canes breaking off at the bud union despite high winds and icing. Unlike mulch, I can still use burlap in the cold--around here it often freezes into a solid mass.

I see beauty in Young Lycidas. Superb fragrance. Tall & upright here.

i live in overly sunny Las Vegas, and found that the first year, I do get the spider arms, but after the 2nd year, the plants became more upright.

Having moved to the new house and put the new garden together, I did find that the plants that made it into the ground too late in spring were more spidery. My landscaper did not finish with the irrigation system and pavers until mid May. but I still get some lovely roses, and it is almost Christmas: