22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
OK, so to answer the question "Shouldn't this be considered as evidence that PNRSV can infect roses by mechanisms other than grafting?", I say "No, because other methods of infection were not excluded, and thus this fails to disprove your null hypothesis."
:-)
~Christopher
Christopher, could you give a reference for your use of "Null hypothesis"?
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The following was stated: "Henry's science background is in Chemistry. Mine was originally Animal Science for Pre-Vet, then a recent "second time around" at college for Psychology and Physical Anthropology, with special interests in genetics, ethology, and a dash of neural and hormonal influences on behavior. So neither of us is really the one to ask about plant viruses. That person would be Dr. Malcolm Manners."
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H.Kuska comment. A Ph.D degree in Physical Chemistry is expected to prepare a scientist to investigate the physics, and chemistry involved in understanding nature. It is a very broad theoretical based major in nature understanding.
Some examples can be found in the following links:
http://degreedirectory.org/articles/Colleges_with_Physical_Chemistry_Degree_Programs_FAQs.html
"Physical chemistry seeks to understand the physical and scientific basis of molecular properties and chemical phenomena. It can be used to understand how proteins fold, how nanostructures form and why holes in the ozone layer originated"
http://degreedirectory.org/directory/category/Physical_Science/Chemistry_Sciences/Theoretical_and_Physical_Chemistry.html
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Regarding Dr. Manners knowledge and my knowledge of rose viruses. In almost any field there are more than one Ph.D. scientist that can contribute to the field.
This is illustrated in this particular situation by the citations in one of the most recent rose viruses reviewed published scientific papers.
Dr. Manners is cited for his: " Manners MM (1997) Effects of rose mosaic disease on performance of hybrid tea roses in Florida. Proc Fla State Hortic Soc 110:118��"121"
This is the context for the use of his presented paper: "Previous reports have shown that symptom expression, virus distribution and virus detection can be influenced by several factors including cultivar, changing seasons/weather and growing conditions (Manners 1997; Sala-Rejczak and Paduch-Cichal 2005; Sertkaya 2010; Wong et al. 1988)."
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I am cited for the following paper: "Kuska H (2003) Can North American rose hybridizers use pollen from virus infected roses? Rose Hybridizers Assoc Newsl 34:7��"10"
This is the context for the use of my paper: "PNRSV is known to be transmitted mechanically, by root grafting and by seed (Abdel-Salam et al. 2008; Golino et al. 2011). The virus may be transmitted by pollen in rose although this hasn’t been fully ascertained (Kuska 2003)."
AND
"Reports of pollen transmission of ApMVin rose are inconclusive (Kuska 2003), but in view of the characteristics of other ilarviruses, it is possible that ApMV could be dispersed by pollen."
I feel that the appearance of any reference (unless being attacked) in a reviewed scientific journal means that the authors, reviewers, and editor feel that it has scientific merit for being included.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent rose research virus paper
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Fri, Dec 26, 14 at 10:53
Usually this time of year is pretty damp and the roses shouldn't need extra watering. They are dormant so they're not using a lot of water anyway. They do need some water over the winter but if you get rain and snow that should be more than enough.
I wrapped the HTs in the front yard with burlap today--it was 51 degrees! A wrap a burlap prevents the canes breaking off at the bud union despite high winds and icing. Unlike mulch, I can still use burlap in the cold--around here it often freezes into a solid mass.
i live in overly sunny Las Vegas, and found that the first year, I do get the spider arms, but after the 2nd year, the plants became more upright.
Having moved to the new house and put the new garden together, I did find that the plants that made it into the ground too late in spring were more spidery. My landscaper did not finish with the irrigation system and pavers until mid May. but I still get some lovely roses, and it is almost Christmas:
I'm not even close to your zone, and I don't grow these roses, but here are a few more ideas for you.
Repeat blooming:
Autumn Sunset
Colette
Royal Sunset
Above and Beyond
If you are willing to go with a once bloomer:
Albertine
Alchymist
I found resin barrel pots at Home Depot for $20 each. They're 22 1/2 inches in diameter across the top. I used them for the larger of my pot-pet Hybrid Teas. See link below, and pics of mine after planting roses and annuals in them.
:-)
~Christopher
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-22-5-in-Resin-Whiskey-Barrel-HDR-505742/203580708
I ended up deciding on an arrangement of curved trellis panels to encompass all the plants, and started trimming (again) before the weather went haywire here. Before our first frost, the rose to the far right had already put out enough new growth I was able to start training it! Since the first attempt was successful, I'll be able to gradually work my way across the arc next year and eventually have the roses eventually back under control (we hope). Will follow with pictures when the weather warms up a bit.
I don't know if you are familiar with the rose data base site called Help Me Find dot com slash roses or not but you can look up all manner of roses on there. I've added a link for Don Juan so you can see some pictures of how it grows. Take note of where the gardens are located so you can see how it will be in similar conditions to yours.
Here is a link that might be useful: Don Juan at HMF
I have a Don Juan on an arch. I am in Southern California and my plant is old.
It blooms great in heat, but mine only gets about 8 feet tall and puts out pretty much straight rather stiff growth. I am not sure I would be able to wrap it around a pillar unless it was a rather large pillar. Everyone that visits leaves chanting Don Juan to remember the name because they like it, but I think I would not pick it for wrapping like you are planning. Mine seems to love some pruning so trying the one cane at a time might give you an idea if it will work or if you need a different rose for the purpose
OK - this is my last comment on the rain. We have had 4 different storms come here in the last 5 days, which I love. We have 20 inches of rain so far since 7/1/2014, which is 200% of our "normal" YTD. So, it appears that I got my wish, and I will be quiet now in gratitude.
Jackie
Lol, proves the old adage, it never rains but what it pours! I know many places have gone from famine to deluge but I'm glad that there has at least been some drought relief for you. Let's hope it now goes to a nice happy medium for everyone!
If by "pruned to make neater" you mean "make it grow as a tight bush, like a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda" then I'd say "probably not." Noisettes will grow into spreading shrubs, much like their 'R. moschata' ancestor. You should plant yours where you can fit something which will spread up to eight feet wide. Some people grow it trained as a broad and shrubby climber, so that's another option. But trying to keep it "small, neat, and tidy" will be going against how this rose wants to grow, and will be an on-going and often losing battle. See pics of it on HelpMeFind in the link below.
As for care, simply think of it as a big flowering shrub. Throw some RoseTone or other organic fertilizer on it when it starts leafing out in Spring, maybe again after the peak of Summer heat has passed, and water it deeply when you go past a week without rain. Otherwise, the old Noisettes are pretty easy where it's not too cold for them -- and if you're in USDA zone 8b, you're right where they love to be.
Check the Antique Rose Forum for more information on this and other Noisettes.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Champneys' Pink Cluster' on HelpMeFind
Hey Pinkpearls,
Champney's does great in TX. It grows big enough that it needs to be put in the ground, eventually. If you can plant it while the weather is cool, it will help it to get its roots established to survive summer heat.
Plant it in a good soil mix, in good sun, & mulch well.
I'd resist the temptation to tidy it up by pruning now. In fact, I'd not prune for 2-3 years (yes, YEARS). Young roses, especially the ogrs, often go through a gangly "teenager" stage of sloppy irregular growth. But they need every cane & leaf to feed them while growing.
My 20+ yr. old Champney's is now a nice upright vase shape of long, thick basal canes topped by flowering sprays. I only occasionally remove a cane (from ground level, every year or so) to allow room for new basals to come up & renew the plant.
It's a good looking rose & blooms almost continuously.