21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

It's been in the low to high eighties which is pleasant in the shade but in the sun after a few minutes it feels like 105. I can only garden in the evenings and then there's never enough daylight to do much except watering. No rain of course, and the drought conditions make for a blah garden. Wish we could siphon off water from the places that have more than they want or need!
Ingrid

It has been in the high 80's here by the Great Lakes, too hot! The air is like burning, feel like melting as soon as you step outside, riding scooter is no longer cool, zooming under the burning sun....... I want the ice-age back today. :-) Love the weather in the 70's. Gardening at night, it should be in the 60's under the moonlight.

It sounds to me more like winter damage. The canes are healthy enough to leaf out, but not healthy enough to produce healthy leaves and flowers. The remedy is pretty much the same though. Prune it out. However, the description doesn't match either or the two common rootstocks.
Pictures would help us come to a definitely conclusion.

It the non-flowering canes are rootstock, they would have grown from underground this season and would still be growing vigorously without setting flower buds. You would probably see differences in the leaves apart from size and color--different shape or number of leaflets, different degree of gloss. In this case do as Seil said.
If they are winter-damaged canes of the (original) scion variety, they would be old canes from last year that are not supporting good growth this season. Leaves could be paler, smaller and bunchier than normal. The canes would produce short stems that go blind (stop growing without setting a flower bud). In this case, just prune the canes to the ground as Mad Gallica said.

Yeah, my Mr Lincoln is the largest HT on my place and was a throwaway rose from KMart several years ago. I paid $1.25 for him. I really like how he forms and how he blooms.
Last year when everything else really took a hit from lack of sun he was still over 6 foot tall. AND he's in a POT of all things.....

I have an own root Mister Lincoln for 3 years and it has me bored to tears...
After our hard winter I took it out of the ground and transplanted into a large pot. It hasn't done much this year yet. Still waiting for its first two buds to bloom this year... YAWN!
Yours looks good though! Nice looking blooms etc...
Is yours own root or grafted?
This post was edited by jim1961 on Sat, Jun 28, 14 at 12:17

Remember this; As long as the canes are green, it's not dead. Most David Austin roses slow down to a crawl when it is extremely hot. Somehow give it shade from noon on. Keep it moist but not soaked. Don't feed it until next spring. Right now it just wants to grow a good root system. 1st year sleep, 2nd year creep, 3rd year leap. You'll see a difference next year and the 3rd year it should go crazy.



CMartien: What a beautiful rose and tribute to your mother. There is no information about the hybridizer on the description page of HMF on this rose. I will add it to the comments section and hopefully contact the administration so they can add it to the main description page.
Bonnie
Here is a link that might be useful: Peggy M on HMF
This post was edited by jasminerose4u on Sat, Jun 28, 14 at 2:55

We would need a sharp closeup of a typical spot to say for sure (blackspot vs other fungal disease), but basically I agree with what Kate said. The yellow veins are a probable virus symptom.
If it doesn't rain for a couple of hours, a fungicide like Bayer tebuconazole will be OK. It is absorbed into the leaf.

The following was stated: " Most of us find that the symptoms (gold marks on leaves) only show up occasionally in the spring. Other than that, the rose seems to suffer no problems as a result of the RMV. (There are a few posters who take a different approach to the subject, however.) "
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H.Kuska comment: PNRSV (apparently the most common rose virus found in the U.S.) is a temperature sensitive virus. At high temperatures the roses' immune system is effective in controlling the virus, at milder temperatures a controlled published scientific study (2007) reported that: "The effect of infection with Prunus necrotic ringspot virus (PNRSV) on growth, flower production and quality of three field-grown rose cultivars: Ingrid Bergman', 'Mr Lincoln' and Queen Elizabeth' was assessed in 2005 and 2006. One and two years after inoculation fresh and dry weight of flowers, diameter of flowers, diameter of shoots, length of shoots, number of shoots, number of flowers and number of flower petals decreased significantly."
This conclusion was consistent with earlier mild climate controlled scientific studies.
Will PNRSV affect the roses in your climate? Unfortunately Zone numbers cannot answer this question. Zone numbers are mainly useful for cold, freezing information. To find high temperature information, take the nearest city of appreciable size and do a Google search of the monthly average high temperatures.
Here is a link that might be useful: summary of high temperature effect information

I know this thread is ages old, but I really need to correct some of the misinformation in here about the EZ-FLO.
The dilution theory is correct when you forget that the EZ-FLO is designed to have MORE fertilizer in the tank that can be held in suspension in the water.
Normally only a small amount of fertilizer will fully dissolve in water. As an example, potassium nitrate will normally only allow around 5lbs of fertilizer to dissolve in water before no more will dissolve. Any additional fertilizer will remain un-dissolved. As fertilizer solution is drawn out of the tank and new water enters the fertilizer will continue to dissolve up to the maximum capacity that can be suspended in water. Mixing with water is then done by adjusting the speed selector in the cap of the EZ-FLO system.
Dilution does not occur until all available fertilizer has been dissolved in water. Even then fertilizer tends to be heavier than water and will gradually sink to the bottom of the tank. This is why the water supply and fertilizer tubes are at the bottom of the tank.
The actual dilution of solution does not occur very much until the end of the tank. Most people are not used to dumping large amounts of fertilizer in a small tank. I feed around 1/2 acre of squash, pumpkins, watermelon and muskmelon using the 3 gallon version. I routinely dump 25lbs of 10-0-10 Calcium Nitrate and 10-15lbs of 13.75-0-45 Potassium Nitrate in the injector depending on the stage of growth.
This is pushed out thru around 2400ft of drip tube that is placed subsurface next to the plants in the rows. I have had fantastic results and I routinely use 2/3 less fertilizer than if I had conventionally incorporated and side dressed. Cost is only marginally lower due to the need to buy greenhouse grade water soluble fertilizer. Champion and Peters are two good brands. Check your local hort supply store. 50lbs of Potassium Nitrate can most likely be had for $17-$20. Peters 20-20-20 all purpose in 25lb bags can usually be had for around $30. Compare that to 5lbs of MG at the local big box for $10.
This year was the wettest year in my neck of Wisconsin for over 10 years. Most of the corn looks very sick due to nitrogen leaching past the roots. My melons however did very well. Since only small amounts of Nitrogen were leeched during any one particular rain I avoided ground water contamination AND I was able to keep supplying my veggies with nutrients very close to the rates they needed for optimum production.
I know of no other cheap system that works as well as the EZ-FLO for the price. Set on the fast selection my fertilizer tank is empty after around 6.5 days or around 12,000 gallons of water. I use a bypass with a valve so I can control how much concentrate goes out. This is an optional purchase which was a must for me.
I would love to use organics but the cost makes no sense. Even the liquid fishy crap would require typically 5 times the amount of material as the chemical stuff. If the cost was only marginally more then I would use it. Organic veggies without having 400 head of cattle just is not commercially viable for the smaller grower. Maybe someday.

i recently purchased the ez flo 3/4 gallon, and intend to use it on a drip line for 1 line of trees/shrubs.There are approximately 20 trees.The line goes on via a timer for 1hour each night.Ive got the drips set between 5 and 10 gallons per tree for the hour.I have miracle gro water soluble fertilizer….My question is, how much should i put in the ez flo container?


I have always envied central Californians their proximity to Reagans and their convenience at shopping a middle man who has brought together a huge collection of interesting roses.
If we lose them, it will hurt the producers who have had a known number of sales. That's bad. Yes, I can still go to the original producers, but I want the producers to have as healthy a business as possible.
Without knowing what percentage of their business is walk in vs. mail and ship bare roots, it's impossible to guess where they might go. There are parts of the country where land prices aren't as dear; but how many such places have so many rose fanatics ready to buy roses?
No easy answers.


Yes, that is Brother Cadfael. As you grow in experience growing roses, you will see that depending on the age of the bush, the weather, the soil, water, food, etc., they can and will surprise you. The older the rose (that is, the type of rose, not the specific bush) the more variable they can be, in my experience.
I have old tea roses which can vary in color, size of bloom, shape of bloom (!), etc., all depending on the season & weather. I love that they do that. Here is a picture of my rose which varies the most in color - it is the old tea rose 'Anna Olivier'. Normally its blooms are buff with a sort of brick color splotch on the reverse of the petals, but as you can see from this picture, the blooms can also be pale yellow or pale pink. The buds are normally a pale pink, but the ones in this picture are much darker.
If you look at any rose on HMF which has lots of pictures, you will usually see this sort of variability, even in some modern roses. Since the Austin roses were bred with some old types originally, perhaps it is not surprising to see some variability.
Jackie



Do remember that this is not a public forum--GW can set whatever parameters it wishes because it "owns" it.
Over the years, they have tended to discourage conversations that include the topic of banned posters.
On the other hand, I was a bit surprised to see a "gossipy" thread on this forum. Those usually do appear over on the Conversation side.
Not that I personally care much, one way or another, however.
Kate
This post was edited by dublinbay on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 11:11

I wonder if the ban on a certain California grower still exists? Long after 'Spike' sold GW (Spike loathed that grower because Spike thought that the grower was trying to publicize his selling roses in his signature line, which he was), any mention of that grower still set off bells and whistles and got zapped, fast.


No surprise to me. It has been in NJ (and PA) for a very long time. Ann and Larry Peck came to visit one of our district conventions years ago, and Ann gave a wonderful talk. One of our younger district members helped with some research, but still nothing new to "crack the case".



Are those the flowers you saw from the older, now apparently deceased parts of the plant? If the flowers look as you expect them to, yes, you want to remove all the dead canes to the ground to make room for the new growth. Kim
Any rose that can survive -35F is beautiful!
As Kim said, just cut the dead off. Leave the good stuff. If you have a good pair of loppers you can reach right into the center of the plant and just lop the dead right down to the ground.